SWITZER pics - finally!!

Hi all
these pics are a long time overdue. this link http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm210/forestfamily64/ should get you there.
click on the woodheat album
Along with the switzer you'll see pics of my trench and tanks.
I tried to upload a video I made these first week after install but the software doesn't work.
Anyone with advise on cheap video software?

thanks

I fixed it the link now works but you'll need to click on the woodheat album.
Ed

someone just emailed me about that.
here's my quote he grabbed from the posting.
If you do a search on underground pipe I'm sure you'll find the thread.

I just finished installing 220' of SDR35 (4" sewer pipe w/ neoprene gasketbuilt in) and spayed it with 2-3" of closed cell urethane foam (purchasedfrom EFI in Westborough MA 800-876-0660 or Wisconsin 800-962-7015) on all sides. I now have a water tight, well insulated, smooth interior conduit from house to barn and house to hot tub. I can snake anything I desire through the pipes with no worries. The SDR cost @ $1/ft but the foam was a little pricey at $1050 for two 600 bd/ft kits and a hose kit. But Icouldn't wait for a foam crew to show up two weeks later for the same money. I did the foam in two layers with a helper moving the tanks along the trench in less than 3 hours. It would have gone quicker if we didn't have to pump water out of the trench along the way. If you are interested in the SDR35 you will find it at any TEAM EJP or call the Spfld MA store 413-543-8888.

Will
I yanked the oil guzzler and sent it to the scrap yard.
The house was built with BB hot water but I plan to upgrade to staple up radiant soon.
The switzer has an oil gun for back up but only heats the top of the tank (no mix with storage tanks).
The 40 year old propane tanks came from Gary Switzer and were cleaned out before he recieved them. Gary did all the engineering and welding for me.
I did most of the install as the pics show. The equipment came thru a 6' double door in my walk out basement with the help of some come-a-longs and brute force (followed by pain meds).
The hot tub should be online in the next week or two. I'll need a tempering valve to keep the tub from boiling me like a tastey MAINE Lobster!
I starting giving the Arabs the one finger salute the day my Switzer went online.

Markpee
Barn pipe will have three 1" pex lines. 2 for heat, 1 for DHW. Hot tub pipe two 1" for heat, two 1/2" for DHW and a stat wire (inside 1/2" pex) so I can monitor water temp of hot tub from the house. I was foward thinking enough on the barn trench to run 5 electrical conduit lines for all future needs but none to hot tub except for the 50A power supply.

Garnification
Gary billed me @ $18,000.00 for the boiler, two 1000 gal tanks with fittings, one 500 gal exp tank, four extra DHW coils, fuel charge and driving time (11hrs round trip), all electrical components and required wiring, two days labor for two guys, insulation, oil gun, flue pipe, draft inducer, and a bunch of fittings. I did 95% of the plumbing myself with a total cost of @$2,000.00 in parts/pipes/etc.

I spoke with Gary this afternoon and he mentioned the cost of his boiler has gone up almost $2K since I bought mine. That still a fair price at the end of day. When Gary left my home I was fully functional with no additional work needed to run the beast..

Will
This summer i've burned every 14 days for dhw only.
I let all tanks drop to @ 100* before the WAF becomes an issue.
I can raise all 3000 gal to 180-200* in 4 -5 hours depending on what i burn.
The system is pressurized.
The design was based on heating two 3600 sq ft buildings with one 4-5 hr burn per day on the coldest days.
I expect to go this winter with no heat to the barn due to the fact that I won't finish construction before snow.
I'll post the results but I expect to go a couple of days between fires without the barn on line.
The hot tub should be online in a week or so. That should change summer burns....

Actually I can get the job done in 3 hrs but that last 20* is a stretch. To go from 180* to 200* takes another 1-2 hrs but by then it's mostly coals. The boiler was built to run flat out at 750K/hr but I got to 800K a few times. I'm working on obtaining (and learning to use) video editing software so I can upload a video to youtube. The Switzer 1050 3 pass is an amazing machine that always burns clean.

I burn two to three wheelbarrel loads per burn (@ 18-20 cu.ft.)

congrats on the wise choice loggie!
how do you plan to tie in the Switzer; copper, pex, or black pipe?
will your existing boiler remain as backup?

You will be pleasantly surprised when you get it going. My system is set up to heat the boiler 1050 gal to 140* before the mix valve starts. So far every burn raises the top of the boiler @ 1* per minute until the mix pump starts. After mix starts all 3K raises @ 25*-30* per hr until evrything reaches 180* the top tank tends to lag behind until the end by @ 10-15*. I haven't the need to know whats happening at different levels in the tanks so I've only installed temp gages at the top of each tank. Less to think about is fine with me when it comes to heat. Maybe when I retire in a few/several years I'll tinker with sensors and gadgets related to heat.

GARYL said:

Based on what you have experienced so far, how much wood do you think you will use this winter and for how many square ft? Is there much heat in your basement from the boiler? It looks like a great insulation package for the boiler, how did you insulate the tanks and are they in the basement too?

Click to expand...

I hope to burn 8 cord for 3600 sq ft plus 2 car attached garage. If the barn is done in time that could chew up another 4.
The barn is two floors 1800 sq ft each. I'll keep it in the mid 50*s.
The basement is very toasty from heat loss. The front and rear of boiler have only 1" of duct board. That's the only thing about the Switzer I would change. It should have 4" but the steel doors cannot be insulated and still be accessible for tube cleaning. So I'll live with the heat loss. A toasty basement will result in warmer floors which can only increase the WAF.
I insulated the tanks with 2 layers of 2" foil faced polyiso purchased at the big box. I have my insulation guy coming to fill the space around the tanks with blown in cellulose soon. As is the tanks hold the heat better than the boiler by 20*.

I had to burn today after 18 days since the last burn.. sort of. I burned a barrel of old books and magazines 11 days ago to get rid of them. Today I experimented with some small (2-5") unsplit rounds cut last fall and left uncovered and unstacked. Needless to say they were a little moist. I chucked three wheel barrel loads in over two hours and the results were a little off the norm.
With dry splits or scrap lumber I can raise the first two tanks 50* and the third tank 40* in two hrs. I'm down by 10* for each tank tonight. Green wood has cost me a lot of efficiency today. I'm glad I've got lots of seasoned splits for this winter.

Green wood update:
At 3rd hour raised 60* boiler(1st tank), 60* 2nd tank, 40* 3rd tank. Then I tossed in some really dry stuff over the coals and the boiler jumped 10* in 15 min. and tank 2 jumped 5* with no change yet in tank 3. I hate to sound like a broken record but sh*% I love the Switzer.