[quote author="Dill" date="1225472411"]
Branch, they don't stock the grills right? I have to order them?
Branch, they don't stock the grills right? I have to order them?
Hunting an Oakwood <sigh!>
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BJN644 said:
How about using dry vermiculite as an insulator between a 6" liner and an existing 8" double wall flue-pipe? Why would that not work? Seems it would be a lot more consistent than trying to wrap the 6" in insulation and then pull it through the outer pipe? Seems like you could glue some small spacers at intervals and pour the vermiculite in and have a great insulated pipe. Is there some reason that would not work?
My neighbor just picked up an Oakwood on Saturday. I went with him to help and the dealer had at least 4 or 5 Oakwoods and a whole lot of Jotul stoves in stock. It looked like a big order just came in and they were putting names on some of the boxes. I didn't see any names on the Harman boxes but they might have put them on after we left. You might want to give them a call (952) 469-6530 . The name of the shop was Patriot Stove and Fireplace in Lakeville MN. They were super nice and spent alot of time showing Bill what he needs to get the stove installed properly. I will be back when I can convince the wife to let me buy a XXV!
BJN644 said:
Duh! I was thinking perlite the whole time and that's what I meant--NOT vermiculite. Thanks for mentioning perlite so I could get on the right page. I had planned to seal the bottom gap where the 6" entered the 8" so it wouldn't drain out into the FP--that might be a LOT of perlite.
It's been crazy around this area since last night when Texas Tech won their game against #1 Texas here in Lubbock. The whole week leading up to this has been hectic and unusual and I was not thinking about much else than that.
Again thanks for the correction. And thanks for the info on the stoves. I'll give 'em a call in the morning (Monday).
What are you thinking of to seal it off? Remember, as your pipe may move around during cleaning, etc. you want to be sure any shifting does not compromise the seal.
branchburner said:
Good question! I had not really given it a lot of thought, since the perlite just came up, but it would seem that 5 or 6 inches of steel wool all around the 6" pipe might work. It should compress, but not get flattened by being compressed over time. What do you think of that? Do you have other suggestions? You veterans probably have a lot of methods.
Texas boy said:
You might want to start a new thread with regard to the pipe setup, with a few more detatils about your house and what walls/ceilings/etc. the pipe will be passing through. Is that 8" already in place, or starting from scratch? The pipe within a pipe scenaraio is new to me.
MANIAC
New Member
branchburner said:
Branch, I bought my Oakwood in August 07 for $1600 in Hampton Falls and I believe BJN644 bought his there a few weeks later for $1650.
I did a lot of shopping around and they were BY FAR the best deal around.
MANIAC said:
That is an amazing price for just a year ago. I did notice that the few Oakwood parts I got there seemed to be below list price, and the same thermometer I got locally for $20 was only $15 in Hampton Falls. They seem like a high-volume. low-margin outfit that does more pellet biz than anyone around. I don't know how they are on service or installs, but nice to find a place with aggressive pricing.
Bullets n Beans said:
Great! Thanks. I've got 'em on the list to call today . . . if I can avoid having a typical Monday!
Texas boy said:
I called the Hampton Falls shop and talked to them about shipping me a stove. They would not do it. Before I remembered the Harman policy, I asked why not. She told me because the selling dealer is reponsible for servicing the unit and they thought New Hampshire to Texas was a bit far for a service call. I could not disagree. Looks like that's going to be the limiting factor. Unfortunately, the closest Harman dealer really isn't and has no stoves. I'm planning to call the next two closest stores, but have a feeling they won't be interested in coming this far. Getting an Oakwood is sure looking grim!!
MishMouse
Minister of Fire
Did you try looking into Quadrafire's Isle Royal?
Granted they don't have a grill option, but it is still a top loader with a bigger box then the Oakwood.
The Isle Royal was actually my second choice for stoves.
Granted they don't have a grill option, but it is still a top loader with a bigger box then the Oakwood.
The Isle Royal was actually my second choice for stoves.
MishMouse said:
Yes, I will check it out, since hopes are dimming by the moment for an Oakwood.
Just curious, but what is there to service in this stove that the dealer would need to be involved--that could not be done remotely?
Texas boy said:
I found an off white enamel Oakwood in a shop in Rockport Maine yesterday, the price tag was $2900, what a beautiful stove, I have never seen an Oakwood in anything other than black.
When I bought my stove in New Hampshire they wrote on the invoice that they would not make any service calls to Maine for warranty repairs. I did have to replace the glass in mine, it was installed backwards from the factory with a glued on gasket and turning black. The shop sent me the new glass and gasket and I replaced myself, no big deal. The whole stove looks pretty simple I don't know why anyone with a basic set of hand tools and knows how to use them couldn't take care of any problems that arise.
PS3696
New Member
I just bought my Oakwood this May in a Honey-Brown Enamel from a dealer in Southeast MA. and paid $1750 for it new. 
I want to get the warming shelves for it but that will most likely be next year. I did order the bottom and rear heat shields and realized after inspection that I didn't need the bottom one so that is off sitting in the corner.
Is anyone else venting into a masonry chimney? Are you having any draft Issues?
Thanks
I want to get the warming shelves for it but that will most likely be next year. I did order the bottom and rear heat shields and realized after inspection that I didn't need the bottom one so that is off sitting in the corner.Is anyone else venting into a masonry chimney? Are you having any draft Issues?
Thanks
BJN644 said:
What I'm wondering is why the stove places can't do like the car dealers. If you buy a car in NY and move or travel to Texas, you don't have to take it back to the selling dealer to have it repaired--the local dealer will do it. At the moment, it looks like because the closest dealer doesn't have any stoves, that I won't be able to get one until next year and not even then probably, since Harman has reportedly quit making everthing except pellet stoves "until further notice". So, if I need one this year I'm SOL according to their policy.
Anyone know any of the higher ups at Harman?
Thanks
Texas boy said:
That may just be their policy, may be because they only have one stove, may be too much of a pain for them... who knows. Keep calling stores to ask about shipping. And call some common carries to get a rough idea about freight costs. Then if you find someone on the fence about shipping, maybe you could offer them a "handling" premium of $50 or $100 to make it worth their while.
If they give you the "service call" line, tell 'em you don't need no stinkin' service, you just need a stove!
PS3696 said:I just bought my Oakwood this May in a Honey-Brown Enamel from a dealer in Southeast MA. and paid $1750 for it new.
Is anyone else venting into a masonry chimney? Are you having any draft Issues?
Thanks
I rear vent into a tee and then straight up 20' of 6" ss, partially insulted (top third only) in a 12x12 clay flue. Only issue is the draft may be too good.
What do you have for a flue?
PS3696
New Member
branchburner said:PS3696 said:I just bought my Oakwood this May in a Honey-Brown Enamel from a dealer in Southeast MA. and paid $1750 for it new.
Is anyone else venting into a masonry chimney? Are you having any draft Issues?
Thanks
I rear vent into a tee and then straight up 20' of 6" ss, partially insulted (top third only) in a 12x12 clay flue. Only issue is the draft may be too good.
What do you have for a flue?
I top vent into 30" of DSP to a 90 then 26" of DSP into a 8X8X20'clay lined external masonry chimney.
What are your normal operating stove-top temps?
I hate the owners manual it is like a 12 year old wrote it for a book report.
ss="spellchecked_word">PS3696</SPAN> said:ss="spellchecked_word">branchburner</SPAN> said:ss="spellchecked_word">PS3696</SPAN> said:I just bought my ss="spellchecked_word">Oakwood</SPAN> this May in a Honey-Brown Enamel from a dealer in Southeast MA. and paid $1750 for it new.
Is anyone else venting into a masonry chimney? Are you having any draft Issues?
Thanks
I rear vent into a tee and then straight up ss="spellchecked_word">20'</SPAN> of 6" ss, partially insulted (top third only) in a 12x12 clay flue. Only issue is the draft may be too good.
What do you have for a flue?
I top vent into 30" of DSP to a 90 then 26" of DSP into a 8X8Xss="spellchecked_word">20'</SPAN>clay lined external masonry chimney.
What are your normal operating stove-top temps?
I hate the owners manual it is like a 12 year old wrote it for a book report.
I bet an insulated liner would definitely help on an external masonry chimney.
BJN644 said:
I bet an insulated liner would definitely help on an external masonry chimney.[/quote]
I agree. Cracking the ash door might help warm it up, but that is going to be a cold stack.
With a nice load of small dry stuff I go to 600 very quickly, it want to go 700 if I don't shut the air. With AB engaged I cruise around 500 with little or no primary air. Right now I am using bone dry wood.
PS3696
New Member
spellchecked_word">branchburner</SPAN> said:
I agree. Cracking the ash door might help warm it up, but that is going to be a cold stack.
With a nice load of small dry stuff I go to 600 very quickly, it want to go 700 if I don't shut the air. With AB engaged I cruise around 500 with little or no primary air. Right now I am using bone dry wood.[/quote]
On Sunday it was 24 F outside and with the stove 2/3 of the way full the damper shut and full primary air I could not get the stove-top temp over 425-450. I usually use the ash door trick to get things moving. it usually takes me a little bit to get the stove up to 500 or so before I close the damper.
PS3696 said:
How dry and what size is your wood? Hove you been checking your chimney outside for smoke? Next cold day try to check at different stages of your burn - with the damper closed you should have no visible smoke. I usually wait for 600 to shut down, and then I rarely get below 450. At 400 and below I always get somke if I try the AB (unless I'm down to just coals - then no smoke).
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