hudson river stove westpoint

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bote3

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Aug 12, 2009
20
stove runs great for about 8 hrs and shuts down push start button it relights anybody have this stove and have these same problems
 
Welcome to the forum bote3,

I don't have the same stove you do, I have the smaller free standing stove that Inca Metal Cutting Ltd makes.

Were you there when the stove shut down, if you were, can you describe the sequence?

The reason I ask is that there are several possible sequences of events that can lead to a shut down.

For example if the stove goes over temperature, the auger is stopped when the hi limit snap disc opens, after which the stoves convection blower and combustion blower continue to run. Eventually the temperature drops below the convection blowers turn on temperature and the convection blower then stops, a short while later the combustion blower stops and the stove has shutdown. There is a flashing light on the control panel at that point. In this case you have to reset the hi limit snap disc before you can restart the stove. Since you didn't mention reseting the limit disc I assume this isn't the cause in your case.
 
bote 3, welcome to the forum. Can you provide more info?

How long have you had the stove? How many tons of pellets have been burned in it since last MAJOR cleaning? What pellets are you burning? Does the shut-off always happen at the same time of day (ie; at night?)? Is stove on a stat?

Also, have you tried using the "search" feature of the forum for other threads about your particular brand & model?

EDIT: just saw a couple things about this stove on other threads:

www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29823/

Also: " bought a Hudson River West Point pellet stove and let me tell you BEWARE BEWARE BEWARE this stove has only been here 2 months and it has a new control panel,high temp limit switch , and Auger. I cant burn it on any setting higher than 2 because it trips the limit switch and shuts the blower fan off…but thats not bad enough the auger continues to feed pellets to the fire"
 
high limit switch does not need to be reset hit the on button on control panel and stove restarts running on level 2 right now to see if it goes out again only have stove since friday.
 
There is a loss of vacuum shut down. This can happen if there is severe back pressure in the vent, the vent is plugged, the exhaust fan stops, the tube going to the vacuum switch is plugged or crimped, or the vacuum switch is defective. In this case the auger stops, followed by the convection fan, then the combustion fan (except of course when the cause is the combustion fan), then the stove is in shutdown and there is a flashing light on the control board, turning the stove back on frequently relights the stove.

There is also a blocked burn pot shut down in this case there is a mass in the burn pot that causes the fire to burn so low that the stove thinks there isn't a fire and it shuts down. Turning the stove back on may or may not relight it.

Then the favorite one for folks that burn on setting 1 is a loss of fire because the stove burns through the pellets before more are delivered to the burn pot. Turning the stove back on will relight it. This is why there is a feed trim setting for heat level 1.

There is also the possibility that the combustion fan is overheating, this would cause a loss of vacuum shutdown, both blowers have thermal protection circuits that shut them down if the get overheated.

Can you describe your venting setup and were there any unburned pellets in the burn pot when the stove shutdown?
 
there is a light blinking on panel not sure if it 2 3 4 because as it flahes looks like all 3 are blinking the stove is direct vented out back up 4 feet elbow and through house also there is an air intake hooked up thanks jeff only have stove since fri will try and call hudson river in am if not do u have parts for this stove
 
re my stove ran all night on heat level 2 any body have any ideas what it might be thanks in advance
 
Well I gave a list of the likely culprits you have only ruled out the over temperature situation that requires a manual reset.

You didn't answer my question about if there were any unburned pellets in the burn pot, so we can't rule out one of the possibilities in above lists.

I'll now add, at what heat setting were you running when the stove quit on you?
 
first shutdown was on setting four no unburned pellets 2 time 3 a few unburned pellets and then i ran stove on 2 all night and its good i am at work but when i left at 330am it was running and i will post if its still running when i get home.
 
just got home from work and the stove is still running checked hose on vacum switch blew through it i t felt like it was plugged turned it up to 3 and we will see if it runs on three spoke to a tech at hudson he does not recommend stove to be run on 5 for more than an hour i will keep yo posted on test
 
Well it is sounding more and more like a loss of vacuum situation, because of what, is the next question.

Did it take longer to fail when running on three than on four?

You should check the vacuum hose that goes to the vacuum switch, if this is bent or crimped it could be providing an incorrect vacuum level as far as that safety is concerned. If the tubing is close enough it could be closing off due to heat induced expansion or if the tube is under hot metal the metal expanding due to heat could also result in closing off.

The next possibility would be the exhaust blower shutting down (it does have thermal protection) this also results in loss of vacuum.

You could have a defective bearing on that exhaust blower which would cause it to overheat and the thermal protection circuit to shut it off. These are commonly automatic reseting circuits. Since you had unburned pellets in the pot on setting 3 and not 4 likely the temperature didn't drop fast enough to even allow the fuel feed to start back up before stove shutdown due to lack of fire on setting 4 but did manage to reset and feed a few pellets before the lack of fire caused the stove to shutdown on setting 3.

Your shutdown is likely heat related.
 
thanks pyro oh by the way the light flashing is # 2 which i believe u said is loss of vacum restarted at 330 turned up to 3 again and we will see actually how long before it actualy shuts down will keep u posted thanks for all the help spoke to dealer finaly about stove he is contacting hudson to see what they say about exhaust blower or the disc on the exhaust housing thanks i greatly appreciate all your help
 
bote3 said:
thanks pyro oh by the way the light flashing is # 2 which i believe u said is loss of vacum restarted at 330 turned up to 3 again and we will see actually how long before it actualy shuts down will keep u posted thanks for all the help spoke to dealer finaly about stove he is contacting hudson to see what they say about exhaust blower or the disc on the exhaust housing thanks i greatly appreciate all your help

I don't have the codes in front of me, the thing about the crazy flashing lights is that they usually mean more than one thing. I think you'll also discover that that same light flashing means the pellets aren't making it to the burn pot because the hopper is empty. I guess they just couldn't spend the extra penny or so to separate the reasons. That makes a vacuum trip look like out of fuel and an over temperature look like a vacuum trip etc etc etc ....

Oh and the handle is SmokeyTheBear not pyro, that is one thing I'm not.

I tend to take great pains to be safe when it comes to playing with fire, a real pyro would be talking about burning elephant droppings and wondering why things didn't work right. Half of the folks here wouldn't say boo, slightly less than half would be making suggestions about adding some kerosene to increase the BTUs produced. A few of us would be screaming hey you running for a Darwin award?
 
moved the vacum switch away from exhaust and rerouted the vacum hose its now 730 and stove is still running 70 in here now wher do u get your parts for your stove i think the parts are the same on both of these stoves agai thanks for walking me through all the steps awesome job also ther was a butterfy vakve on air intake i opened it up all the way so far stove is still running
 
bote3 said:
moved the vacum switch away from exhaust and rerouted the vacum hose its now 730 and stove is still running 70 in here now wher do u get your parts for your stove i think the parts are the same on both of these stoves agai thanks for walking me through all the steps awesome job also ther was a butterfy vakve on air intake i opened it up all the way so far stove is still running

I get my parts through the dealer that sold me the stove. I suspect that your room air blower might have a higher CFM rating it has to remove a lot more heat from the system to keep it below 250 degrees at the hi limit snap disc. None of the blowers are stock items as they have custom mounts etc.. so you have to go through the dealer or be willing to do a bit of drilling and using other than approved parts thus causing a lot of issues. Even though you'll see a manufacturer's number etc you'll not find that number in their catalog.

That butterfly valve must have been put there by the installer or was a modification to the stove. They are supposed to have a totally unrestricted air flow on the intake side. I see no mention of one in the copy of the manual I have.

You do however need a way of blocking the outside air during the off season to help prevent rust inside the stove due to high humidity. I pull the OAK off and stick a wash cloth in it. Don't forget to completely clean the stove and apply a light coating of something to protect the fire box and fire pot receiver from rust.
 
well the haunted stove ran from 330 till i woke up at 1200am to no heat started stove at 1200am and left for work at 330am with stove on setting 2 so i am back to square one i think i am going to change the hose to make sure that not cracked or collapseing i am starting to think it might be control board thanks smokey the bear.
 
Or the combustion fan is thermaling off, one of the problems in determining what is going on is not being there in the room when it acts up. Too many things provide the same end result. Talk to the dealer you bought it from or to the folks at Hudson River (I've never tried calling Inca). Wish I could be of more help, but all I can do is provide a bit of information.

There is one other thing going back through the information you have provided, how is that vent terminated outside your house? I certainly hope that it has a proper horizontal terminating end cap that points down so there is no direct path for a good wind gust to come on through it, that could also cause a vacuum trip.
 
thanks again the end cap is the new one from simpson duravent that supposedly creats a venturi effect part # 5SP-3PVP-HC stove died again on tues night disconnected and hooke my englander back up and running t sta back on 60
 
high limit switch does not need to be reset hit the on button on control panel and stove restarts running on level 2 right now to see if it goes out again only have stove since friday.

This stove has a 250 Deg F Hi Limit Switch so that works fine.
 
just got home from work and the stove is still running checked hose on vacum switch blew through it i t felt like it was plugged turned it up to 3 and we will see if it runs on three spoke to a tech at hudson he does not recommend stove to be run on 5 for more than an hour i will keep yo posted on test

The reason 5 is not recommended, is that the WP control panel on 5 is 6.5 lbs per hour! That is too much to handle for the burn pot and the pellets start over feeding. The new model Kinderhook that replaces this WestPoint has a max of 5.0 lbs per hour on heat level 5 ! ! !
 
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