Newbie from South Jersey

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sjpiney

Member
Sep 27, 2010
2
Burlington Co, NJ
Hey folks,
This is all new to me, not just the shopping for a wood burning insert, but the whole chatroom thing as well. So hopefully I'm following proper protocol. If not, pls excuse my inexperience and feel free to point me in the right direction.

I live in southern NJ in a 60 year old home located on a lake in the Pine Barren region. We have an existing masonry fireplace that we love to burn, but have come to the realization that it's just too wasteful. We don't even have glass doors. Anyhow, I found this website tonight while googling wood burning inserts. I'm up way too late enjoying the wealth of info you all provide. We've been focusing on buying a Clydesdale by Hearthstone. I like the tech specs and my wife likes the appearance. (I love when that happens!) Anyhow, one big issue seems to be a potential concern with our existing chimney. A level two inspection revealed that it had a few hairline cracks on the 5th tile from the top. Figured this is not going to be a big deal since I always assumed we'd be installing a 6" SS liner with the insulation wrap kit. Turns out, our existing terra cotta liner is only 7" by 11" inner dimensions. An insulated 6" SS liner would end up about 7.5" outer diameter when wrapped. Now what? Do I skip the insulation of the liner? Do I reduce the diameter from the 6" collar to a 5" liner then insulate -- doubt the manufacturer would suggest that. Our house is 2 story, open floor plan, 2900 sf, with about 25' high chimney. Fireplace/chimney is interior located on the common wall that separates the kitchen from the great room and chimney runs up through the center of the attic. Any comments/thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Sorry I can't tell ya what you need to do but someone will, Welcome any how!! You'll love this site.

Charlie
 
Being a former south jerseyite from outside the Ocean City area and knowing what I know.

I would rip off the Chimney. Reface the exterior to match the rest of th exterior house. Rip out the hearth, mantle etc and restore the wall to match the rest. No one said you had to work with the existing chimney!

Install wood stove with pipe running straight up through the ceiling roof as straight as possible.

Season wood as long as possible due to the damp humidity.

Or just just move to where it is either drier and or wamer!!
 
You have a couple of options for your liner:
1) Wrap it in a thinner (1/4") insulation or
2) Pour in Thermix or something similar after the liner has been installed.
Good luck!
 
I would go with the Thermix also. Ripping down your exsisting chimney and hearth could turn into a very pricey adventure. Your chimney is nice and tall, you should not have much problem with draft, depending on your setup. Your biggest problem for this year would be fuel. I have yet to find many reputable firewood dealers in our area. They all have their excuses like, it was cut standing dead, or, its been down for a year. I dont believe any of them. Check the wood for yourself before and if your gonna buy it. I learned to get way ahead on my wood, which I did this year. If ya could find yourself some Ash, grab it, split it into small pieces, let it dry in the sun and wind. That would be your best bet for this year and the wood would still be marginal at best. Good luck to ya.
 
Thanks, folks, for the input. I like Daksy's idea of maybe using the thinner (1/4") insulation wrap, although if I use a 6" liner to match the Clydesdale collar connection, I'm still going to be real tight I would think. Having less than a half inch wiggle room seems like it would pose some problems with installation. Some websites suggest the outer diameter might still be around 7" even with the 1/4" wrap. And isn't there supposed to be some air space left between the insulation and the terra cotta flue liner? Is there a pre-insulated liner made that has an outer diameter of perhaps 6"? Looks like I'm down to three choices: 1. use 6" ss liner with no insulation 2. use 5" or 5.5" liner with wrapped insulation or 3. use 6" liner then pour in Thermix. The Clydesdale calls for a 6" liner so I'm a very concerned about opting for a thinner diameter liner fearing that it would not draft properly. Is this a legitimate concern?

Also, thanks for all the advice and suggestions on the importance of dry, quality wood. I was not aware of the challenges finding good, properly seasoned wood. I've got lots to learn!
 
Have the hairline cracks been deemed important enough to make insulation essential? If the expert opinion of a true specialist told me not to worry, I'd be inclined to skip the insulation, as it's an interior chimney, and just go with a blockoff plate and whatever insulation could be stuffed in around the top and the bottom of the liner.

Smaller liner is a concern - maybe use 5.5", but not 5" - others have used 5.5" with no probs, but have you tried asking Hearthstone or the dealer about this? Wouldn't go smaller without the opinion of one who knows this particular appliance.

Copied from another thread this site…..

“FYI,
here is jims email
[email protected] woodstove expert hearthstone
800) 827-8683 ext 235

he is a very good guy and responds to (my emails at least) very quickly
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Dave Gault
WoodHeatStoves.com
blog.woodheatstoves.com”
 
I can't comment on the chimney issues, but I can comment on your fuel. For your first season, consider something like "biobricks". They are a compressed "brick" of recycled scrap lumber. I burned a similar product last year (EcoBrix - they're actually made in New Jersey) and did quite well. Typically a ton of these bricks price out at about the same as a cord of what the cordwood guys call "seasoned" which more often than not isn't quite ready to burn. I liked these bricks so much that I use them pretty much exclusively. If you want to burn real wood next year, get yourself a season's supply of "seasoned" wood this year as well, stack it, cover, and let it bake until next year.

The only caveat that I can think of is that Hearthstone may not honor their warrantee when using these biomass fuels, particularly if you overfire the stove on biomass fuel. The best way to avoid overfiring on biomass is to simply start with small loads and ~~slowly~~ work your way up until you get into a comfort zone.
 
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