A dealer story for you...

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Milton Findley

Feeling the Heat
Oct 26, 2010
313
Whitefish Bay, WI
I saved up a little bit of money over the summer and decided to put a wood stove on the hearth in front of my 1950's Heatilator imitation fireplace. This thing is stone faced, all the way to the ceiling, made out of three layers of high carbon steel so tough it breaks drill bits, and it vents into a three walled air cooled chimney through the usual chimney box. The chimney sweep said that everything was in good condition after cleaning and inspecting everything for about 550 bucks including the new chimney cap. The hearth is large, tile on a concrete slab. What has this to do with a dealer, you ask? OK, I will get there eventually.

I went out to a local fireplace store, wanting a Vermont Castings Encore, (I liked the one I had that was actually made by VC 20 years ago, and I was ignorant of the history of the last decade or so, and I had not found this forum yet). So I told the guy what I had, told him what I wanted, and he said that he would order the stove forthwith. I checked back 3 weeks later and was told that he needed the credit card number to order the stove. I was a little peeved at the fact that he had not asked for it on the day we made the deal, but no harm, it was still early October. I gave him the card to run.

He came out to measure everything, told me it would not be a problem to install, and I waited. I got a phone call after a couple of weeks and was told that they could not install it, because VC did not allow the stove to be installed in front of a prefabricated fireplace. The manual says so, but this is not what I would classify as such a fireplace. I used one of those for 6 years in an apartment I rented, and the one in my house is not like those at all. Who am I to argue? I said that if he would sell me the stuff I would take care of it, or I would order a liner kit on line and take care of the lining myself, given that it is a straight shot down from a flat roof through an 8 foot chimney, all clean and shiny and 8 inches in diameter, plus another 4 feet down to the fire box, with a 90 turn out to the stove to be.

He said fine, he could sell me anything I wanted, but he could not install it, according to the rules. Liability you know. I said no problem, the building inspector would be doing the inspecting and my insurance company is happier with an airtight stove instead of an open fireplace anyway.

Four weeks later, he calls and says that he has the stove and the liner kit, and that it will be delivered the next day. I said good, and then he said that they would be dropping it off in the driveway rather than bringing it in to the house, because that is how they did deliveries. I said really? I asked him how he came to the conclusion that I would just take it on my 63 year old self to get my disabled wife to pick up one end, while I picked up the other end of a 500 pound stove to carry it into the house, down two steps and 28 feet across a room to the hearth and pay him $4500 dollars for the privilege? I then assured him that if he had perseverance and a 5 gallon bucket of Vaseline he could put the stove and liner kit in an unlikely storage area.

Needless to say, I am not buying a stove from an idiot, and since VC makes me totally dependent on the dealer I am not at all happy with them either. So I am back looking for a stove of some sort and a reputable dealer to buy it from. I want a top loading, preferably cast iron, catalytic or clean burning other wise stove, and I am looking for suggestions. It needs to heat a space of about 800 square feet, but the room it sits in is cold when the breeze is off Lake Michigan, and colder when it is off North Dakota by way of Minnesota.

I somehow thought it would be easier to spend five grand. I am thinking that the idiot dealer would be happy to find a couple of big guys given what he stood to make on the deal, or actually have one of those nifty stove delivery gadgets that climbs and descends stairs like two out of the three dealers I bought stoves from in the past had.
 
Milt said:
I somehow thought it would be easier to spend five grand. I am thinking that the idiot dealer would be happy to find a couple of big guys given what he stood to make on the deal, or actually have one of those nifty stove delivery gadgets that climbs and descends stairs like two out of the three dealers I bought stoves from in the past had.

Hey, Milt. Welcome to the forum. I grew up south of you in Shorewood--just a few blocks off the lake.

Geez, where to start. The bottom line is that this story is going to have an unhappy ending if you have a prefab
fireplace. Neither the inspector nor the insurance company are going to be happy with a free standing stove going
into the liner of a triple wall chimney in an old prefab fireplace. You need an insert that is rated for your
prefab fireplace or you need to rip out the old fireplace/chimney and put in a stove and proper chimney. Sorry to
be the bearer of bad news, but I figure you'd rather have it coming from a fellow former east sider.

I went through the whole thing with my prefab fireplace, and it was just a no go. I ended up with a very nice
insert which does a great job of heating.
 
Buy a used stove off of craigslist, and have a good independent installer put it in. I paid $1200 for the Jotul Oslo, and $2750 to have it installed into my fireplace with 25' of single wall 304 stainless liner, including stainless cap, chimney crown replacement & cleaning. The oslo is a very nice stove, Jotul has a good reputation so far as I can see
 
I'm not an expert by any means but as previously mentioned, I am not sure that there are any freestanding stoves that are approved for a pre-fab fireplace. You can buy a stove and install it yourself, but if it were me i would definitely not install a stove that is not approved for your setup, no matter how safe you think it may be. I know some rules and guidelines may seem silly or excessive but do you really want to test one in YOUR home? If your house catches fire do you really want to give your insurance company a reason to deny your claim, do you really want to risk injury or worse to your family? I don't want to sound all doom and gloom but safety is something I believe should be taken seriously.
The good news is there are quite a few inserts that are approved for pre-fabs and you should be able to find one that should easily heat the area you described.
 
I don't think OP is talking about a prefab unit. He stated as such. He has had those before. The orig Heatilators were made out of battleship steel for firebox and fireplace built around. I know, I had one in my custom built home. Three years ago I had Buck Stove Dealer install model 81 insert in Heatilator fireplace with insulated liner etc. Best decision I ever made. I love it ! I think he needs to just find the right Dealer.
 
I have zero experience with pre-fab fireplaces and heatilators so I don't know if a heatilator is considered a pre fab or not, but I would find out if the manufacturer of whatever brand you buy considers it a pre fab. I would imagine you would void a warranty on a new stove by installing it into an unapproved fireplace, not to mention what your insurance company would say should an issue arise
 
Milt,

Good to see a 'neighbor' here on hearth.com! We are just west of you. I think I know which dealer you were speaking to as we had a bit of a problem with them also. Anyway, can't help you with your specific install but listen to the gurus here and you won't get a bum steer.

Shari
 
You have me wondering what the differences are in "Pre-fab chimneys" with a pre-fab fireplace, and regular pre-fab chimneys.

What also would it do to put in a Stainless Steel liner in the pre-fab fireplace chimney to meet the 2100 degree requirement.
 
a pre-fab fireplace or chimney is best described as a metal fireplace and metal chimney. typically 3 24 gauge galvanized (stainless) pipes with air gaps in between them to cool one another. wich coins the term "zero clearence" in other words the chimney and fireplace cools itself to where it can be close to combustibles. this is different then wood stoves and inserts because there has to be certian clearneces met around anything combustible...
 
Welcome to the forum Milt.

Others are touching on the fireplace so please allow me to touch on the movement of the stove itself....if you get it.

We installed a 500 pound rock in our house a few years ago. Before doing so, we also built a 16" raised hearth. We got the stove and it was delivered to a local business and all I had to do was pick it up there and get it home and into the house. No problem. I hooked onto our trailer and went for the stove. When I got home I backed into the carport and unloaded the stove (by myself) onto a furniture dolly. It then set for several months in the carport while the remodeling was going on.

Getting the stove inside was not bad at all. We first had to go up 3 steps onto the porch. Two 2 x 10 planks did the job nicely and the two neighbors who came to help was really a big help. We wrapped a rope around the stove and they pulled up while I guided the dolly. Once in the house, a couple 4 x 4's under the stove and we lifted it right up onto the hearth. It was done very quickly.

One can also get a 2-wheeled dolly or cart for moving the stoves but I've always been partial to furniture dollies. Last week I happened to go into a Harbor Freight store and they had the dollies on sale for $9.95.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Battleship steel is a good way to describe the fireplace, high carbon steel breaks drill bits, or makes them dull very quickly. This fireplace is one of those. It is not the sort of fireplace found in apartments as I said. The only thing that will go through the fireplace is a new chimney liner. It will be blocked, but only by a screen, airflow will continue. No matter how hot the new chimney liner gets, the existing chimney, fireplace walls, and connector box will not get as hot as it got with a load of oak burning in it. In essence, the fireplace gets to be an extension of the soon to be quadruple walled insulated chimney.

No stove is going to heat several tons of sandstone to the point of combustion either, nor heat the floor enough to re-glaze the tiles on the hearth. Let us not get to the point of ridiculous in this conversation. I have owned and operated several wood stoves and one coal stove, and none of them ever burned anything down, nor were any of them ever as safely installed as this one will be. Code is Code, and this will be to Code, at least as I understand it. Stove manufacturers didn't write it, insurance underwriters did.

I was thinking Jotul myself. Or Lopi.
 
pking said:
You have me wondering what the differences are in "Pre-fab chimneys" with a pre-fab fireplace, and regular pre-fab chimneys.

What also would it do to put in a Stainless Steel liner in the pre-fab fireplace chimney to meet the 2100 degree requirement.

I am with you on that, it would seem that a triple walled air cooled chimney would certainly contain the flue gases. However, I have learned that an airtight stove generates a lot of very hot gasses, and that 2100 degrees is the standard currently demanded. OK, I will line it and insulate it.

Pre fab in this case means that the chimney was fabricated in a factory, for use as a fireplace chimney.
 
Thanks for the response Dennis.

You are right, I could have moved it, and I have the equipment and resources to do it. I simply will not move it and write a $4500 dollar check in the same week to as unresponsive a group of twits as this dealer seems to be made of. My sense of dignity and need to get value for my hard earned money requires certain standards of performance.
 
For what it's worth, you may want to consider a cat stove for when the winds aren't blowing. Something you can cut back a bit when you don't need a lot of heat. Won't take much to cook you out of 800 sq ft.
 
In my experience a Heatilator is not a pre fab fireplace it is a steel firebox that is installed in a masonry enclosure. At least that's what we did with them in the late 50s. It is entirely possible that the folks that write the manuals have no history of the brand but it boils down to what the various inspectors have to say. My guess is that they have to blindly follow the manuals.
 
Heatilator classifies all of their products as "zero clearance" fireplaces. That is straight from their website. And I know from shopping for stoves that some stoves are approved for zero clearance fireplace and some are not. Maybe I am a nervous nelly or maybe I just don't know what I am talking about( which is possible, my wife accuses me of that often) but I just tend to think it's a good idea to install a wood stove in a manner that conforms with the manufacturers guidelines and local codes, and by up to code I mean as the local inspector understands it, not to my understanding. I have heard from many people that Vermont castings have had more than their share of quality issues lately and that they will look for any excuse not to honor their warranty, do you want to give them that excuse should an issue come up? Look all I am advising is to make a call to a local inspector or someone who is a certified chimney guy and get a clear understanding of the local laws then find out from the manufacturer if the stove you want is recommended for your setup, if it all checks out then go for it. Your local vc dealer may be a dope but I doubt he would turn down business needlessly. Maybe there is something to what he told you. I don't think it is ridiculous to double check and make sure your stove choice and install are legal, safe and won't void a warranty, just my opinion . Best of luck with whatever you do!
 
Hi Milt, welcome to the forum. Heatalator as a company ceased to exist many years ago and now only exists as a brand name owned by Lenox. There is a problem with the chiminey on these after so many years, they rust out due to condensation between the separate tubes. ( got the t shirt) Might be wise to have a sweep with a cam system take a look. The 2100 liner is the way to go if there is enough room. Recently a friend of mine had a problem with his, seems when they installed it, oh so many years ago, they used 2x4's to support the fire box and out side tube of the triple wall flue (no clearance there). Well after many years of use those 2x4's became chared and began to burn inside his wall according to the fire marshal, made for a very exciting evening in his neighborhood. He just happened to catch it by accident before it spread to far. No one was hurt and it did not get a chance to spread too far.
 
krex1010 said:
Heatilator classifies all of their products as "zero clearance" fireplaces. That is straight from their website. And I know from shopping for stoves that some stoves are approved for zero clearance fireplace and some are not. Maybe I am a nervous nelly or maybe I just don't know what I am talking about( which is possible, my wife accuses me of that often) but I just tend to think it's a good idea to install a wood stove in a manner that conforms with the manufacturers guidelines and local codes, and by up to code I mean as the local inspector understands it, not to my understanding. I have heard from many people that Vermont castings have had more than their share of quality issues lately and that they will look for any excuse not to honor their warranty, do you want to give them that excuse should an issue come up? Look all I am advising is to make a call to a local inspector or someone who is a certified chimney guy and get a clear understanding of the local laws then find out from the manufacturer if the stove you want is recommended for your setup, if it all checks out then go for it. Your local vc dealer may be a dope but I doubt he would turn down business needlessly. Maybe there is something to what he told you. Just my opinion . Best of luck with whatever you do!

Krex,

I want it right too. The building inspector has been here. The certified chimney guy too. Neither one sees a problem.

This fireplace falls under "a steel firebox surrounded by masonry." It is not a zero clearance firebox.

I looked at Heatilator's website and they do not have manuals for my unit as it is half a century old.

The dealer turned down his profit because he would not deliver the stove from his truck to the hearth, not because he was doing anything that bothered his conscience, or which violatsd any local laws or ordinances.
 
Milt, I think you have done all the right things. It will be a safe install with a liner. Have you firmly decided on the VC Encore or is this still up to debate?
 
blades said:
Hi Milt, welcome to the forum. Heatalator as a company ceased to exist many years ago and now only exists as a brand name owned by Lenox. There is a problem with the chiminey on these after so many years, they rust out due to condensation between the separate tubes. ( got the t shirt) Might be wise to have a sweep with a cam system take a look. The 2100 liner is the way to go if there is enough room. Recently a friend of mine had a problem with his, seems when they installed it, oh so many years ago, they used 2x4's to support the fire box and out side tube of the triple wall flue (no clearance there). Well after many years of use those 2x4's became chared and began to burn inside his wall according to the fire marshal, made for a very exciting evening in his neighborhood. He just happened to catch it by accident before it spread to far. No one was hurt and it did not get a chance to spread too far.

That is the kind of stuff that makes me want to not burn fires in it anymore and why I want to put a stove and liner in. I will look into a 2100 liner. The weak point in the whole thing, it seems to me, it the chimney venting. The trained and certified chimney sweep pronounced it good to go, but it is old, and I did not buy the class III inspection. I also do not know what is behind the firebox, but the fans and vents to circulate the air represent several more layers of steel on the sides.
 
BeGreen said:
Milt, I think you have done all the right things. It will be a safe install with a liner. Have you firmly decided on the VC Encore or is this still up to debate?

I am looking at Jotul toploaders as we type back and forth.
 
weezer4117 said:
a pre-fab fireplace or chimney is best described as a metal fireplace and metal chimney. typically 3 24 gauge galvanized (stainless) pipes with air gaps in between them to cool one another. wich coins the term "zero clearence" in other words the chimney and fireplace cools itself to where it can be close to combustibles. this is different then wood stoves and inserts because there has to be certian clearneces met around anything combustible...


to add to this the pipe that connects to the ZC stove are also 8 inch pipes so a 6 inch liner is needed to hook up to the new stoves of today for any insert for a zc stove.

Milt good luck when you do find the right dealer, and you will know when you do...I applaud you for your stand on telling the dealer to go whistle dixie for his thought of what service is all about...
md
 
Milt said:
krex1010 said:
Heatilator classifies all of their products as "zero clearance" fireplaces. That is straight from their website. And I know from shopping for stoves that some stoves are approved for zero clearance fireplace and some are not. Maybe I am a nervous nelly or maybe I just don't know what I am talking about( which is possible, my wife accuses me of that often) but I just tend to think it's a good idea to install a wood stove in a manner that conforms with the manufacturers guidelines and local codes, and by up to code I mean as the local inspector understands it, not to my understanding. I have heard from many people that Vermont castings have had more than their share of quality issues lately and that they will look for any excuse not to honor their warranty, do you want to give them that excuse should an issue come up? Look all I am advising is to make a call to a local inspector or someone who is a certified chimney guy and get a clear understanding of the local laws then find out from the manufacturer if the stove you want is recommended for your setup, if it all checks out then go for it. Your local vc dealer may be a dope but I doubt he would turn down business needlessly. Maybe there is something to what he told you. Just my opinion . Best of luck with whatever you do!

Krex,

I want it right too. The building inspector has been here. The certified chimney guy too. Neither one sees a problem.

This fireplace falls under "a steel firebox surrounded by masonry." It is not a zero clearance firebox.

I looked at Heatilator's website and they do not have manuals for my unit as it is half a century old.

The dealer turned down his profit because he would not deliver the stove from his truck to the hearth, not because he was doing anything that bothered his conscience, or which violatsd any local laws or ordinances.

sounds like you did your homework then, we are a bunch of people here who like to light fires inside our homes so you cant be too careful! anyways i hope you find a solid dealer that you are happy with, best of luck there.
 
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