damper with an insert?

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ohiohearthstone

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 27, 2010
51
Bowling Green, Ohio
Does anyone here run a damper with an insert? I was just wondering how they actually install. Late last season, I had the liner insulated (due to cold air draft leaking into room-) This along with the block off plate solved that problem (thought I was going crazzzzy) Flue is 20' on exterior.. I know we have a good draft...I guess that's the opposite of what some people have....
So anyway, I don't use a terrible amount of wood (about 4-16 splits a day) , but with the air control pushed in, it still burns what I would call rapid and easily pushes to the overfire zone on the Rutland.
Average burn time is around 4-5 hours and I was just wondering how this compares to other Clydesdales. Some days she burns fine on low and other times it's a runaway train. I'm still learning but I find it interesting that when the door is open (she burns like a campfire rate but when it's open a crack or shut she really get's rockin......Kinda confusing to me because me brain wants to tell me that it should burn out of control with door open lol...
So...I was just curious if I need a damper (and yes I realize that only a draft test -through port will tell me this...how much does that test cost?
Are cap dampers easily installed without having to yank the insert? From what I can browse on Google it looks like the cable drops through the liner...but I was just curious as to what happens to it a the insert connection....
 
With a 20ft flue I would expect draft to be just about right. Usually a damper is not put on inserts. It's too hard to access. Draft can vary with outside temperatures. The greater the difference between the indoor and outdoor temp the stronger the draft will be, so when it is cold outside the draft will increase. Another variable is the wood. Different species wood will burn at different rates. Even in the same tree the heart wood will often burn slower and hotter than the sap wood.

Another thing that will affect the burn is timing of the reload. It's not a good idea to put a fresh load of wood on a large, hot coal bed. Burn down the coals first by raking them to the front of the stove and opening up the air.

I'm wondering about the temperature readings. Can you tell us where is the thermometer located? What temperature are you reading on the Rutland? Is it a stove top model or a flue model (what temp does it indicate too hot as)?
 
I have the Rutland thermometer that has the med burn at 450 with overfire at 700 ...with thermometer located on the top grill (where the air comes out from blower)
I'm just trying to figure out how to get such a long burn time
Additionally, the manual does say that high draft situations may require a damper..just curious
 
I have a hampton and with one on the top shelf like yours, and one on the firebox I notice the firebox temp is a little more then 2 times the air temp. Or to put it another way, the top shelf hits say 300 and the firebox gets 650-675.
 
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