Englander 50-SNC13I installation please help

Hi,
I bought englander 50-SNC13I, but having problems with installing it. First of all I cannot find proper elbows and pipes. I read somewhere that I cannot use 45 or 90 degree elbows (against UL103). But, I cannot find double wall 30 degree elbows either. Can I use double wall stove pipes instead of stove pipes double walled? How do I connect then double walled pipes to the single wall pipe in the chimney?

Please help.

BeGreen said:

Welcome barnowl. Let's back up a bit and discuss the whole enchilada first. Describe the complete chimney installation so that we understand the problem you are trying to solve. How is the flue piping going to run, from stove to the flue cap?

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Well, I have got a masonry fireplace niche where freestanding stove was located (got rid of it). It is a brick structure that stands out to the exterior of the house. The height of the niche is about 100", 53" wide and about 45" deep. Dimensions of it more than enough for the insert (according to the insert manual). There is a single wall stainless steel liner runs through the chimney and about 6 inches of it sticks out of the concrete ceiling of the niche. The top of the stove is not aligned with that pipe that is in the chimney. I cannot push the insert deep into the niche also, since it will be sitting too deep. Now, to me it looks like I need to get adapter, connect 30 degree elbow to offset misalignment of the stove top and the liner , then 24" double wall stove pipe, another 30% elbow, 36 inches stove pipe, connector to connect liner to the stove pipe. Attaching pictures. Then, after all connected I am going to attach about 4 metal brackets to the walls on each side, screw a metal stripe to the brackets (some sort of wall studs), then screw to those metal stripes sheets of non-combustible cement board all the way to the ceiling to cover arch. Any suggestions how to accomplish my mission?

BrotherBart said:

And why you need 45 or 90 degree elbows or double wall anything to install a fireplace insert?

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I need elbows for offset and double wall because I will be covering the front of the opening with cement board and double walls allow 6" clearance vs to 18" with single walls.

Guys thank a lot for your replies!

I understand that you like it, but why is that I cannot use the space for an insert? What makes it illegal to cover the front of it? BeGreen it is not one brick deep. There is a thick concrete layer underneath of the brick. I bought the foreclosure house and the previous owner sold the stove before I got in. But anyways, I would still get rid of it if it was there. Not really in my taste to have algoe fireplace. I already bought the insert and dont want really to return it. I am attaching two more pictures. One is the view from outside and another is my plan.

Please tell me how to connect all of this.

This is my idea: After connecting the insert, cover with non-combustible cement board all brick, cover the hearth both sides of the insert with black/white marble tiles (including the section under the window), and above the mantel, cover cement board with a venitian plaster all the way to the ceiling that will make that piece look like as it is made of whole marble piece.

Please tell me if it can be done.

Here are my questions:

1. what kind of double-wall stove pipes I should use? Can I use class "A" (not my choice, since they are extremely expensive, especially elbows). If I should use class A, how do I connect class "A" to the single wall chimney pipe that runs through the masonry chimney?
2. Looks like there was something screwed to the ceiling around the chimney pipe. Was it some sort of support box?
3. Can I use 45 degree double wall elbows to connect the stove pipes? I read somewhere that it is against UL103 code to utilize 45 degree, max allowed is 30 degrees, but I am able to find double wall 30 degree elbow stove pipe (black). The only elbows with 30 degrees available are the class "A" ones, but how do I put 3 screws in them (according to manual)

Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:

It'd be sacrilege to put anything but a lovely stove in there.


If you bought the insert from Englander, can you return it, and get a stove?


Welcome to the forums !

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Unfortunately I cannot return it and honestly freestanding stove is not in my taste I would rather cover the entire space without putting anything in there, than buying another stove and placing it there if get to keep the alcoe. Guys, please, tell me how to connect my insert, without talking me out of it. I am determined to get rid of the arch and brick by covering it.

Guys,

Regardless what you said, I did it. I even had the county inspector coming and approving the installation. Here is the picture of my project, compare it to the one shown previously.

Well, you are right it is recessed a bit, but I did not want to use any elbows to compensate the stove's standing out to the room. I have not checked how much heats it outputs, but it has a blower, which might help a bit. The front black square panel in the middle i created a frame with angles , attached a cement material and granite on the top, then I hang that from the middle. It looks like solid, but removable. I did it removable in case i need to clean the flue from inside.

Thanks a lot for liking it. I thought a lot about trapping heat in that niche and not being able to maximize heat radiation into the room. But my primary mission was aesthetics and some heat, in case if I lose power and my gas furnace blower stops. As long as this insert will not let my family freeze to death and help to lower a bit our gas bill then I am more than happy. Cant wait for winter to test it. Do you guys think I need RTV calking or sealing around flue joints? Can I use RTV sealant or it has to be special cement basis?

BeGreen,

Thanks for your post. I have a black telescopic flue pipe rising up about 70" from the top of the stove that connected to the stainless steel (I think it is a class A) single wall flue pipe just about 5 inches below the ceiling level. The ceiling is cement and stainless steel flue pipe runs inside of the chimney lined up with chimney tiles all the way to the top. I wanted to apply the sealant around stove's top connector adapter, telescopic pipes joint and the place where black flue pipe joins the stainless steel. The granite plate that is below the mantel shelve is removable, so I kept the access to the flue in case I need it. I have heard that sealant is overkill and normally does nothing as long as the flue is working and air has a good pull.