Typical Surface Temp on Double Wall Chimney Pipe

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BurnIt13

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jun 10, 2010
636
Central MA
I'm beginning the install of my Englander 30. Due to many factors, I am forced to go through the ceiling of the first floor....pass through the 2nd floor bedroom, and out the roof. I am building a chase and strictly adhearing to all local codes and manufacturers guidelines.

That said I am amazed that I can install the pipe (Metal-Fab DW) 1.5" away from combustible materials. My plan is to install it no less than 3" away but I am still amazed. I will line the interior of the chase with sheet metal while I'm at it just for good measure too. This may or may not be helpfull.

What are the typical double wall surface temps of an average fire? Same goes for the double wall stove pipe...I imagine that must be hotter.

Thanks!
 
Normally people start with class A at the ceiling, and keep going with it right through the second floor, then out through that ceiling, then through the roof.
 
It does seem crazy that the clearance is so minimal.. I had several fires in my 7100 before the drywall was complete and the pipe was cool to the touch most of the time. Never got too hot even with some crazy secondaries. It is the SL300 series... It uses outside air to cool the chimney. I know that sounds just as crazy but it is good pipe... IMO I am not sure if others work the same way.

YMMV
 
Jimbob said:
Normally people start with class A at the ceiling, and keep going with it right through the second floor, then out through that ceiling, then through the roof.

I'll be using double wall stove pipe from the stove to the ceiling, into the ceiling support box, and then double wall chimney pipe from there through the second floor and out the roof. That sound normal right? I'll be using rafter shields and firestops too.
 
Sounds good. I thought you were going to be using DW STOVEPIPE through the ceiling.:bug:
My FIL has the metal Selkirk chimney running through his main floor from the basement. The exterior surface gets about as hot as the outside of a mug of coffee.
You can just hold your hand on it.
You probably won't need to line the chase with sheet metal, it's probably not a bad idea, though. I would put a vent on the lower and upper ends of the chase to allow a bit of air circulation. You can get nice looking vents.
 

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Oooo....good idea on the vents. Upon further inspection, Metal-Fab specifies 2" minimum clearance. I still plan to keep to 2.5" min anyways just for the heck of it. Most of it will be 3".
 
very good idea on vents.
 
+2 on the vents. The only problem I see is that there is generally some outside air coming into the chase. The roof flashing usually has some small vents right below the storm collar. In most instances this air can travel down the chase.

My concern would be that outside air would make its way into the room via the vents.
 
Actually, any air coming under the roof flashing shouldn't be a concern. Attics are generally well ventillated, and are close to the same temperature as outside anyway.
Where the chimney penetrates the ceiling is where you'll have to guard against drafts. Installations I've seen have a piece of sheet metal with a round hole in it, the same diameter as the chimney. There are proper componants for doing this, though.
Browse the chimney manufacturer's websites for sample installations.
Some examples here:
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/WorkArea/showcontent.aspx?id=1662
 
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