Flue size for EKO 40

I know quite a few members on here use 6" and have no problems on there eko . I have 7" but have not fired mine up yet. I think Stee uses 6" pipe check out his boiler install in the stickey section.

Huff

According to my Paxo manual, which is literally a yellow version of the EKO, it says that the minimum flue size is 8X8" tile, or 8" stainless but that is a very general statement to be using for all boilers 18KW-80KW. Following there chimney height vs diameter chart, at 30ft you are skirting the limit with a 7" liner, so I would try to ovalize that a little and fit that in your chimney for sure. MY biggest concern is the 8ft of horizontal run, thats what scares me the most. Its going to be almost impossible to start a natural draft to start the boiler, and you are going to need some type of draft inducer in the horizontal run to the chimney to pull a draft. By absolutely all means available that is as close as you can get the EKO to the chimney? Is it completely horizontal or do you have at least a little bit of rise in the pipe?

I, as many before me, have had great performance with a 6" flue on my EKO 40. I'm running 22' vertical +/- after I pass through my basement wall.

A properly installed, clay lined chimney shouldn't need a liner. Have you ever had a chimney fire in it? If NO, check it top and bottom, and thru any receivers with a mirror. If no cracks or creosote stains on the block/brick, you 'should be' good to go. A chimney cleaning service may be able to provide a camera inspection and certify the inspection.

Yankee said:

A properly installed, clay lined chimney shouldn't need a liner. Have you ever had a chimney fire in it? If NO, check it top and bottom, and thru any receivers with a mirror. If no cracks or creosote stains on the block/brick, you 'should be' good to go. A chimney cleaning service may be able to provide a camera inspection and certify the inspection.

Click to expand...

Yes and no-

With a gasification boiler you definitely won't need to worry about creosote (as long as you have storage and are not idling), but a large diameter cross-section of tile lined flue may not "draw" very well (flow slows down in a wide cross-section), especially given that the flue gases exiting the boiler will be relatively low in temperature.

The horizontal run will add to that factor, as you'll have cooling of the flue gases along the way between boiler and chimney flue.

In these regards the flue liner may help in that it will keep velocity higher in the stack, and will diminish cooling on the way up.

I've got a horizontal run with slight uphill pitch between my boiler and my chimney, which I know is undesirable but in my case was unavoidable given layout constraints in an old farmhouse basement. Overall it's about 10 ft with several turns, and about 1/2 inch per foot of rise. It actually works fine in cold weather. In warm weather I need to temporarily cover the barometric damper, and then before lighting the wood, light a big wad of newspaper in the upper firebox, to get some upward draft established.

With a horizontal run you will DEFINITELY want to have some access points for cleaning fly ash, as it is highly likely to accumulate in substantial quantities along the horizontal sections.