Stove too Hot...click here.

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spacecowboyIV said:
If your dog or cat isn't constantly laying in front of it, its not hot enough. . . . Burn On!

I have both a dogometer and a catometer. I suppose if I wanted to fine-tune my system I could paint outlines around them on the floor at different temperatures . . .

Must go let the dogometer back inside and finish the woodrack I started and build up the fire again. Fun while it lasted . . .
 
Stax - you mentioned your 4-split load was cross-stacked. Maybe that's why it took off so fast & hot. Perhaps experiment with splits parallel to each other and packed tightly with minimum space between them. Not suggesting you load the box to the gills, if 4 parallel splits behave better then 5 or 6 might be OK. And I've needed a panic shutdown switch a few times too.
 
Guys, thanks for your replies. Gark...great suggestion. Thank you, I will try that. I'm just learning.
 
Since we don't have a panic shutoff switch, I keep 2 golfball size blobs of kaowool (even fiberglass insulation would work) nearby to stuff into the air intakes. Are the Lopi Declaration intakes accessable from the front? Sure beats running through the house with flaming logs.
 
Gark...another great suggestion. I have a decent size piece of 3/4" Kaowool board that I could cut to fit where my intake is.
 
Don't think I can access my air intake but the stove top temp drops like a rock if I open the door.
 
Jatoxcio...that's also exactly what I did. Opened my bypass, closed my air intake, then blocked it with my welders gloves the best I coulld and then swung the doors open. Worked good.
 
Yeah Stax, I posted about a scare I had a few weeks ago where the outside of my house along the chimney was smoking and I d%*m near had a heart attack. I opened the door and sprayed water from a mister on the fire careful not to hit the glass or shock the metal and got the temps down that way.
 
You should be fine . . . but lesson learned.

I find with my own stove it's a good idea to burn in cycles . . . and that means avoiding the temptation to add wood too soon in the burning process . . . in my own case adding a full charge of wood with a stove top at those temps will send my stove to the thermonuclear zone pretty quickly . . .

As you have no doubt discovered there are some tips to cooling down a stove quickly . . . pointing a fan right at the stove, fully or partially blocking the secondary air intake and even opening up the door to turn the woodstove into a free burning "fire place."
 
Stax,put the gun down now. :lol:
 
Could you list what you actually did to bring the temp down? I think it would be good to have this information in a sticky!
 
Ort, that is exactly why the original post was submitted through the suggestion box. The moderator then moved it, but hey...his/her choice. I now know that my stove was not at 740, but rather 550-600 degrees. I was taking readings with my IR gun pointing at the coals and was actually getting a reading off the glass. Anyhow, here's what I did. I turned my blower to max, closed my air intake completely, shoved my welders glove to block the whole area, opened the bypass and then opened the doors. Stove temp dropped sharply.

Bud, lol...I hear ya.
 
talk about an overheated stove:

forest-52.jpg
 
Stax said:
Lol..."the gates of hell"...Space, I can't exactly recall my temps. I have a temps situation. My Rutland is place top left on the box, beneath my faceplate grills, right where the blower emits air. It's kind of like the only place on the box I can put it. During the "gates of hell" situation, it was reading 530, while the IR was reading (pointed at coals) 740. My IR gives me way hotter temps in the box (pointed at coals) that my Rutland does on the box. Then if I point the IR right next to Rutland, it will read approximately 100 degrees lower. Umm...yeah...don't know what to say.

For kicks I sometimes point the IR gun at the coals, and it doesn't register as its above 1000 degrees.
Just keep an eye on the stovetop temps.
 
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