”Osburn 1800i BayWood Fireplace Story” install in progress

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thanks all for this,
please understand, there was never a question that it would not be blocked off, "it is" and "will be".

It's currently the "insulation of the liner" which is or is not required for correct functionality.

"Recommended" states the manual. It also reads "on an exterior" ... and IMO,
without illustration one could interpret that to be a masonry liner chimney rather then the outside pipe.

appearently it's the norm "not" to install insulated liners for 13.5 brick exterior chimneys.

you guys have got me going here ... you have no idea!
keen to understand of course that it's the Osburn 1800i ULC S627, tested to S628 manual we're going by.

Liner must meet ULC S635 (Canada) which building permits office already inquired about and has since been approved.

"A continues 6" (152mm) stainless steel liner from the top of the chimney is the optimum system and will provide the best results,
as well as compensate for poor draft situations caused by large corss-sectional chimneys. This insert will not work without a positive seal in the chimney"


it also read: "Chimneys constructed outside of the home, on an exterior wall, should be avoided if possible,
especially in colder climates. Outside chimneys may not draw as well and may downdraft due to the difficulty in heating them up to operating temperature. ...
Draft can be increased by increasing chimney height, and reducing heat loss from the chimney through an insulated liner"

now without pictures, are they referring to a chimney which is masonry part of the house or one of those chrome pipes running along the outside of the home.

see where I'm getting with this ?




see how it goes ... thanks all for the feedback, great to hear and not so great to hear info.
stay tuned !


My building permit got red penned that the instrcutions have to be provided on site
and is to be installed as per manufacturs instruction tested to ULC S628.

It was already a concern by buidling permits that it read ULC S627 on the front of the manual,
to which Osburn forwarded a name plate copy indicating on the unit tested to ULC 628 in a masonry fireplace.



on another note, one should not forget that some may have and operate a humidex system which pulls stagnant cold air out of a basement.
this would need to be turned off during fire burning ofcourse! mostly a summer item but I see people having smoking problems,
and wonder about the understanding of the negative and positive of air pressure within the home.


anyhow guys thats a lot of overload on information, I knew I didn't know everything! ha

I'm sure all will go well and there is plenty of a learning curve here it looks like.
 
BeGreen said:
Ford had a saying for prospective Model T owners - ask the man that owns one. I don't think you'll find anyone with an exterior chimney that regretted adding an insulated liner. However, you will find hundreds of people posting problems with poor draft, excess creosote accumulation, balky stoves, due to short, cold chimneys. The flue is half of the heating engine. A good flue is going to make the insert work better. Insulating the liner will go a long way towards addressing these issues. Once the liner is insulated, a block-off plate will keep the heat in the old firebox of the fireplace instead of heating up the flue. That translates into much more heat output from the insert.

http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/evilchim.htm
http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/chimneys.htm

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Why_damper_seal_is_needed/





thank you for those links;
I particularly enjoyed the following statement.

"Here is the harsh reality: When you combine an outside chimney with an appliance installation below the neutral pressure plane of the house, the system will suffer the cold hearth syndrome during cold weather. Period. The result is just as certain for furnaces and water heaters, only it's not called the cold hearth syndrome, it's called a cold basement. "


I agree with all the good reading.

I can see may self ensuring there is positive pressure in the house, crack the living room window open a bit
and then BURNING REALLY HOT without an insulated liner but blocked off ofcourse.

not like we haven't build fires around here before. just wasn't getting any heat from all the wood.

I'm going to go with "needs to be lit once and keeps the chimney from getting cold until spring time"
 
I am pretty sure I don't have a block off plate but reading this forum it sure would make sense to. I do notice a terrible draft from the bottom of my unit when I am not burning. I figured a solution might be to put some Roxul around where the draft comes from. I don't want to prevent the unit form breahting though.



I also do not know if they installed an insulted chimeny or not..my guess is not......once agian I love the unit didn't like the install. Next time I get mine unit swept and inspected I will inquire.
 
I am pretty sure I don't have a block off plate but reading this forum it sure would make sense to. I do notice a terrible draft from the bottom of my unit when I am not burning. I figured a solution might be to put some Roxul around where the draft comes from. I don't want to prevent the unit form breahting though.



I also do not know if they installed an insulted chimeny or not..my guess is not......once agian I love the unit didn't like the install. Next time I get mine unit swept and inspected I will inquire.

I have never had a probloem though with draft or any chimeny build-up. My sweep (after the first year) did not beleive that I had burned close to two chords.
 
Hi, yes it was installed last Tuesday, good thing I called them on Monday to confirm our appointment,
when it was moved from the previous Thursday, it somehow ended not getting written in for Tuesday.
anyhow, they fitted me in on Tuesday morning.

as discussed and as predicted, they did a simple soft block-off with insulation and a somewhat half fast job at that.
I called them back on Wednesday with regards to the now newly cold drafts coming in to the house when not
using the insert. trade you back one good old rusted tight dampner for some torn up crappy insulation with gaps.

So they run me out two new bats of insulation, I had mentioned I'd take care of it, they seem to busy.
so far I've had to wet sand down the surround, cooktop and now fix this damn leaking insulation.

bottom line: I'm now "after talking with the building inspector" in process of getting my "Sheet Metal Block-Off plate"
figured out and installing it myself before putting all the pretty trim on the unit.

Inspection was fine, even commented on the good work and all looks safe ... and suggested the Block-off plate,
told me he understand that dealers don't want to or have the time to fart around with custom requirements like this.

anyhow ... no big deal, we got a stove, they got their money, I'll now concentrate on getting it to work correctly so we can enjoy it.

had our first little burn tonight, however the wife was not impressed "yet"
I tried to explain the curring of the paint procees, but the woman just want to see large flames before christmas.

uploading some pics now to my latest page @ https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/30052/P30/

thanks for the advise, i'm getting the Block-off plate in there next couple of day,
possible to leave the insulation up in there while sealing it off with steel plate ?
 
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give me a couple of days, I'll have the Steel Block Off plate in there as the surround up in place.

looking forward to the completion of the facing and a nice piece of wood for the mantle.
 
Glad to hear you are making progress, hang in there. In regards to the block off plate, that is exactly what I did. I put rock-wool (Roxxul) fire proof insulation around the pipe at the top and the bottom of the chimney. Then put up the block off plate and the top cap, worked out real well for my installation.
 
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