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Post in 'The Gear' started by bogydave, Nov 10, 2012.
has 2, says both run
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Definately collectible, but not worth a heck of a lot. Would I run them? No... but they look nice. I offed all my old saws becasue of parts not being available from dealers any more and they are just too heavy and vibration prone. Older 08's also have ignition points in them. Parts for Stihl 08/08s/s10 saws are rediculously priced on Ebay, and you could break them down and sell them for parts and make money off of them.
I would jump on that 08...
They are STIHLS Of course they have value. Like Stihlhead said you could always part them out. But offer a little less for the newer 018, the bar is on upside down
CL ad , Anchorage.
Guy wants $450 for both.
I'm not interested but thought maybe a Stihl or saw shops may want it for display.
Nope, missing one 8 for me to be interested. A C
That's too rich.
Ask him how it feels to want..... . 08 is cool, don't see 'em everyday anymore but not $450 of cool. Even with a free 015.
Looks cool but like othr saws I see here on CL, overpriced.
Th 08 was one of the cleaner looking saws on there.
Was just looking, never know may see a good deal.
Don't see many saws without chain brakes, a good thing IMO.
I would probally still show up and run that minty 08....Just for kicks!
Most Stihl and Husky saws here are also mostly overpriced, and lately they are all the rather old and heavy models. But the better ones come along now and then. For a while in '08-'09 there were more good saws than I had time to look at and buy. Fallers were selling saws to pay the rent. People were moving out of the PNW. Mills were closing. Now good saws are few and far between on CL, and the good ones get snapped up pretty fast.
My Olympik and early Stihl AV saws did not have chainbrakes, nor did my Mac 10-10s or big old 390s, or my original Homelite. I rarely use chain brakes, and I start my saws with them off, unless I am in a tight place like limbing out crowns, climbing, or around other people. I learned on and am used to running saws that do not have them. I always presume that the saw has the brake off when I start it, regardless. They are good for kick-back situations though, and the guards are in the right places on Stihl saws in my experience needing them. I also ran some saws that needed oil added by thumb lever. And they had points in the ignitions, and were a real b*tch to start at times.
Saw this on CL. Guess we've all been there. Not a chainsaw expert, maybe someone can make it worthwhile?
Husqvarna 430 chainsaw - $100 (Redding, CT)
Date: 2012-11-10, 6:23PM EST
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This is the item: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CJTWCS
I bought this one week ago and ended up breaking it the first time I used it. Basically, I forgot to mix up the engine oil with the gas and ran it for a while until I realized what a moron I was. Now it won't start. I don't know how to fix it, nor do I know where to take it. Amazon won't let me return it either. I ended up buying another one from Lowes, because I needed a chainsaw urgently.
So if you know how to fix up chainsaws, it's yours for $100. Brand new chainsaw, not even a scratch on it. Comes with manual and chain tension wrench. From my understanding, a couple of parts need to be changed because they got damaged by the higher than normal RPMs the engine was running on without the oil.
Location: Redding, CT
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Unfortunately by the time you get done replacing the piston, rings, and possibly the cylinder, the $$ invested will be close to or equal to what a brand new one will cost. And that doesn't even factor in any time invested.
I ran an 011 every winter until it finally died last winter. It started out my only saw (when I was poor) and then became my trim saw. They are tough and last a long time. As you can see in my sig. I am still running a 028.