1200 Hours of Drying

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skyline

Burning Hunk
Oct 29, 2009
191
Oregon
In my never ending quest to learn about or speed up the drying process, I started another drying experiment.

Supposedly we are getting closer to wood drying season in the PNW although proof is scarce. I cut a friends tree down about 2 months ago, bucked, split and stacked it the same day. I thought I would see how some of the splits dried compared to putting one in the garage. I put a fan on low in the garage to stir the air. You can't really feel any breeze at the split's location as much as an awareness that there is some air movement. I think this is relevant to a lot of posts on this forum as folks generally recommend season their wood outside and then stack it in their sheds. But if folks don't want to stack twice, a little forced air movement in a shed will dry a lot of wood.

My goals were to both compare the drying speeds of indoor in the shade with slight air movement compared to outdoor in the sun, wind and rain and also see how drying outside changes with the weather. No surprise, the wood doesn't dry when its raining, but the moisture added is quickly lost the next dry day. What is clear is that so far with our climate and weather, the wood dries very little at night, but drying rates can go as high as 20g/ hour during a warm sunny period. That rate would dry my wood in 7 days if it started at 100% MC. But of course drying rates will always decrease as the moisture content of the wood gets closer to outside EMC conditions. As you would expect the piece in the garage dries more evenly, a little more quickly when its warmer in the day but not like being out in the sun and wind. But since it is drying day and night, it has lost 34% of its weight versus an average of 28% for the outside splits after 1200 hours. The difference was more significant after 600 hours when it had lost 25% verses and ave. of 14.8%. The warm weather of summer will no doubt catch up the outside pieces.

What has surprised me was the consistency sometimes of water lost between the different sized pieces. As an example, after one 18 hour period, 4 of the 6 pieces lost between 111-117 grams of water. I have calculated all kinds of stats from % moisture lost to grams/ hour drying rates, most of which would bore you enough to cause you to go stack wood. One month (600 hours) into it, I changed things up a bit covering 2 of the pieces with plywood, 2 with clear roofing and leaving 2 in the open. See pic. No doubt there will be a trade off between keeping the rain off and warming up in the sun.

Anyway thought I would report the stutus so far. The splits I measured were my average burning size (Doug F.) and ranged from 5645-7394 g (12.4-16.3 lbs). My control in the garage started at 5748g. You can see the stack is a pretty ideal for drying, single row on asphalt with plenty of wind, other than there is no cover. Stack runs exactly E-W, on asphalt, with great S. exposure and wind. You can see the 6 splits marked in the pile. After 600 hours changed the stack to some covered and not as shown. I was weighing weekly at first and then started weighing daily or even after a few hours if it was warm and sunny to see the difference. My clock started at 10am on April 19th, 2011. The stage 2 picture is how I moved the 6 splits after 600 hours.

Until I do an oven dry I won't know their actual moisture content but the last picture is a spreadsheet shot that lets me assume some figures to help calculate their MC until I do an oven dry.
We had our first 80 degree day last weekend and some of the splits lost almost 300 g in 2 days! Looking forward to summer!
 

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Very interesting.. That is almost exactly what I was talking about. Like you read my mind. Only I was gonna do much larger scale. I guess going small will give me more accurate results. I am going to have to buy a scale. I do not want to use my M/C meter (Good one/still not perfect). I had to come in and take a break, this tree is gonna kill me (2 yr old Dead standing Ash cut down this morning). Its to Hot to be C/S/S Wood....

Again, Great info. Hot days and the Fans in my Barn, should do the trick. I am still gonna store a lot of wood in the barn anyways. Cant hurt. If its back there for 4 yrs, it will be dry, no matter what the weather is like. The Barn has pretty good air flow because of how high up it sits. In the Winter, we used to put 2x12's around the bottom to Seal it up, so the Horses didnt Freeze. Around 6" Gap around the entire Barn.

I will probably just use 1 of my Fans, not all of them. Its about the same model as a Industrial type shop would have. Dayton 36" Ind Fans. (Either 3/4 or 1/2 HP, will have to check) Either can be pole mounted or Hard mounted to a wall/structure. Not gonna find this model at Wal-Mart. Ordered them from Grainger..

One fan for 8 hrs total in the day (Run for 1 hr, off for 2hrs) or something like that. Prob gonna experiment with the fan a lot. Try to find out if its best to have a small fan on 24 hrs, or my large fan on for the hottest 8 hrs of the day, or like I stated above On for 1 hr, Off for 2 hrs For 24, thats 8 hrs of Fan time.

Very nice work... I love stuff like this... I love all the ways we can find, to improve an already good process and make things more efficient.... Cheers skyline
 
Dexter,

Thanks for the interest. I wish I could do mine on a large scale with continuous weight and weather being recorded, but all in good time. Actually most of this has all been worked out by the guys who run kilns with the exception that they are trying to dry wood as fast or cheap as possible WITHOUT defects so they have to artificially raise RH. You might find some of the discussion here relevant. http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/comdry.pl?read=363117 To summarize, as long as airflow at the wood surface is not saturated, the drying speed is controlled by temp. and RH and is limited by moisture transfer speed in the wood. Pretty good discussion here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_drying It takes very little air flow to keep from being saturated, think <1 mph.

Since your fans were designed to cool the barn, I'm guessing using them could be a trade off between the benefits of airflow, and the negative effects of lowering the temperature and raising the RH to say nothing of the cost of running them. I calculated my fan costs $30/year to run 24/7 but works for as many cords as I have in the barn. I'm guessing your big one would be over $400/year and may even slow your drying compared to a smaller fan that doesn't lower temperature but still moves the air. Just some thoughts. You might try a small fan for one week during hot weather and then try out the big one.

If your experimenting, I would be interested in differences in drying speed of some splits on the bottom row of your shed pallets with and without plastic underneath.
Also, I got my scale at http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/

Happy Drying!
 
I can see already this is going to be one of my favorite posts. It will be of great interest to many to see the results.
 
FWIW, my wife and I finished stacking a little pile today....a good 11-12 full cord in the shed for the next year or two. I mentioned it would be fun to measure a few pieces from different places in the stacks to measure the drying over the next few months....and bam....here it is. Perhaps the best part is that my wife is actually interested as well. :)

So it sounds like in 2 months the first 1/3 to 1/2 of all the water to be lost has been lost....that's pretty quick...
 
My information may be merely trivial but I have found that stacking no more than two splits end to end and stacking in a traditional manner is about as good as I can do. I cover only the top with rigid material, plywood, metal ETC. I do not have an official shed for wood and I'm unsure about building one. So for now it is two rows to give effective seasoning...
 
Interesting study, and you seem to be losing water surprisingly fast at those early stages.

You mentioned a fan in a woodshed to keep some air moving - passive solar chimneys can be good for this if you can design the air flow to move through the stack. It is a shame you didn't take half of one of those splits at the start and do an oven dry test for moisture content. It is hard to get a feel for how much further things still have to go based on the data so far.

Have you put a probe on them to get a feel for %MC ?

It is also good to see how important air circulation is - I'm in the process of planning a new wood shed and will be giving plenty of ventilation built in. Open slats on the walls, slatted floor etc...

Good job and let us know how it carries on!

Mike
 
maxed_out said:
I can see already this is going to be one of my favorite posts. It will be of great interest to many to see the results.

bpirger said:
FWIW, my wife and I finished stacking a little pile today....a good 11-12 full cord in the shed for the next year or two. I mentioned it would be fun to measure a few pieces from different places in the stacks to measure the drying over the next few months....and bam....here it is. Perhaps the best part is that my wife is actually interested as well. :)

So it sounds like in 2 months the first 1/3 to 1/2 of all the water to be lost has been lost....that's pretty quick...

Maxed, Pbirger and Kaptain, Thanks for the interest. I'll include a few more spread sheet snaps so you can see more data. Actually if I assume 100% MC to start (which is probably a little high) and use a 6500 gram split as an average, then I would need to lose 3250 grams to lose 100% of my moisture. My splits have lost an average of 1831 grams or 56% in 50 days under terrible drying conditions. If you look at the weather SS you'll see our average Temp. & Humidity during this time period was 51 °F and RH of 77.4. Last weekend was our first warm day near 80 and in 2 days we lost about the same as an 8 day period back in May 10-18.

Mesuno said:
Interesting study, and you seem to be losing water surprisingly fast at those early stages.

You mentioned a fan in a woodshed to keep some air moving - passive solar chimneys can be good for this if you can design the air flow to move through the stack. It is a shame you didn't take half of one of those splits at the start and do an oven dry test for moisture content. It is hard to get a feel for how much further things still have to go based on the data so far.

Have you put a probe on them to get a feel for %MC ?

It is also good to see how important air circulation is - I'm in the process of planning a new wood shed and will be giving plenty of ventilation built in. Open slats on the walls, slatted floor etc...

Mike

Mike, I don't think it is that fast since the rate of drying has to do with the gradient between what the wood starts at and EMC. Since it probably started above 90%MC and even with our wet NW weather having averaged 51 °F and 77 RH, that is still an EMC of 15.4, a pretty big gradient at first. Of course the rate of drying is slowing down as you can see in some of the SS but our weather is getting better too, so hopefully the summer will finish them off.

I don't think the MC probe is very useful at this point since the splits are clearly in a state of change. The MC of the splits are dry (15%) on the edges and wet in the middle. I get 15-30% on the same split on the same outside face. They are more useful in measuring MC AFTER wood is closer to reaching its equilibrium. As moisture moves from the edges, moisture from inside can move out and take its place. I use a fan in the woodshed because there is very little air movement especially at night, like most places which is half my seasoning time. My previous posted experiments in my garage show how much it helps. But I think the quicker drying results were as much perhaps more from slightly higher temps and lower RH than big air movement. I think we over emphasize ventilation on this site because we've all seen wood rot without enough. But assuming you have enough, we don't emphasize ways to raise temps and lower RH. As long as you have enough air movement (like solar chimneys as you mention or fans) we would probably have quicker drying by figuring out how to raise the temp. of our wood and lower the RH around it.

None of this really matters if you let it sit out for 2 years, stacked off the ground, in single rows, covered only on top during the wet season as all the pros around here suggest. EMC's around the country are generally less than 15% (see http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrn/fplrn268.pdf ) and if your wood gets there you're fine. What my data really shows is that most of the drying is done in short periods of time during the day when temps are up and RH is down. We would be better off trying to produce more of those conditions than just ventilate. As Jay as pointed out, plenty of folks are using solar kilns successfully.
 

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Just short of 2 months drying and outdoor splits have lost on average 30% of their starting weight. Also had my first split outdoors pass up my control split in the garage. Remember all the guys telling you to season your wood outside in the sun! This is a trend you can see will start happening to the other pieces as the weather continues to get warmer and dryer. What is really clear is the bigger the piece, the slower it dries. Based on an assumed starting %MC of 95%, my smallest piece is currently at 23% and my biggest piece is still at 47% MC!

I also fixed an equation I poster earlier if you want to calculate your %moisture content using the weights of your splits and ASSUME a starting moisture content.
It seems to work pretty well and gives you an idea where your wood is at over time.

It is the following:

First Calculate your Oven Dry wt. by assume a starting %MC of your wood. You can look this up or actually dry a piece. Outdoor pizza ovens work great for this!

Weigh your starting split then calc:

Starting Wt. * 100 / (100 *(Assumed starting %MC+1) = Oven Dry Wt.

then to calculate your current %MC = (Current Wt. - Oven Dry Wt.) / Oven Dry Wt.
 

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