1970's Darth Vadar mask sheet metal stove

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Jaceymae

New Member
Feb 26, 2011
14
Heart of Texas
Following a rolling brown out that repeated itself unnannounced to us at 11 degrees several times before noon, I decided it was time to pull out the remnants of an old circa 70's black sheet metal stove we had removed for insurance purposes...apparently we were under insullated beneath, and single wall was not permitted.

I beefed up the underlayment, extended the clearance, and replaced all the pipe. Minor problem with smoke in the room. The insert is in less that perfect condition with rust holes in the middle and is this the reason for the smoke? If so wondered if a new insert could be installed, or if the existing piece could be made solid using a wire mesh patch and some of that high temp stove goop.

Another possibility, if anyone recognizes from my subject line the type of stove this is...there is no other mechanical damper to adjust, and should there be, to control smoke direction.

Thank ou out there for any help. Of course now the temps are in the 80's..but I'LL BE READY NEXT TIME!3]
 
Sounds like that old insert was removed for a reason. Put it out to pasture. Burning in a leaky stove can be very hazardous to your health, especially if the firebox is compromised. Seriously, this could be fatal in some circumstances. Hopefully you have CO and smoke detectors in good working order.
 
Sounds like some tin for the scrap bin. You might get a few bucks for it at the scrap yard.
Or use it as an outdoor firepit.
 
I like the outdoor firepit idea! There are many kinds of stoves that can be had for cheap money out there and will burn clean and safe. Get one, you will not regret it. There are some really cheap used ones if you only want to spend short money. Just ask around if you need help picking one out. Good luck, burn safe, stay warm.

PS: I wish we saw 80 degrees here too, no such luck until about May/June. :)
 
With all due respect, I may not have explained properly....although considering this IS Texas, it may go outside eventually. It is a backup for outage of electricity. The insert has not been removed, just has a few holes. I know everyone is all about the cast iron earthstove thing, but this little stove heats up quick and equally quickly cools off when the temps rise. Not like a major heat event that has everyone in a sauna without a way to lower the temps. Maybe I am wrong, but I went to the hardware store and bought some screen to make a patch. Over that I pookied using Imperial Hi-temp Stove and furnace cement. It went thru the sceen and bonded to the insert itself. If this does indeed redirect the smoke, why would this not be a workable idea for now? I really love the style of this stove, you can see the fire like a real fireplace!
 
If finance is the over all problem I would understand. However for your safety and the safety of the others in your house I would not go for a patch job. It my work for a time but I would not trust it. Metal is very soft when heated as you may know, and furnace cement is meant to fill cracks or joints, when you put it on a face it will not expand and contract at the same rate. The furnace cement will separate with the screen and fall off... Please do not try to get by, There are many inexpensive stoves available and there are several that would probably be a direct exchange for the one you will remove.
 
All the leaks are stopped. It is drawing beautifully when there is a fire going, but when it turns to embers, smoke backs into the room. Is this because there is too much pipe and would taking a couple of the joints off fix that? Remember, it is going out a sheet metal insert in a window and then turns up 45 degrees another 10" or so to put it above the eve two feet. When I look into the stove face and up the pipe, the smoks just stops drawing when there are only embers.
 
Jaceymae said:
All the leaks are stopped. It is drawing beautifully when there is a fire going, but when it turns to embers, smoke backs into the room. Is this because there is too much pipe and would taking a couple of the joints off fix that? Remember, it is going out a sheet metal insert in a window and then turns up 45 degrees another 10" or so to put it above the eve two feet. When I look into the stove face and up the pipe, the smoks just stops drawing when there are only embers.

Carbon monoxide kills.
 
No Mc Gyver types on this forum?? How about a solution using the existing non-leaking stove such as reducing the length of the pipe upward? There must be someone out there that can wrap their minds around the technicle aspect?
 
Jaceymae said:
No Mc Gyver types on this forum?? How about a solution using the existing non-leaking stove such as reducing the length of the pipe upward? There must be someone out there that can wrap their minds around the technicle aspect?

Jaceymae,

There probably are not Mc Gyver types on this list because members of this list responsibly recognize the hazards of 'going Mc Gyver' on a stove install. Have you checked your local codes and your homeowners insurance to see if they even allow the install you currently have?
 
I actually found a website that addressed function of stoves, but had trouble loggin in. There they discussed the loss of heat in certain types of pipe, which was preferable to those dragons that over heat houses. They talked about the way open stoves totally use the fuel, instead of creating creasote pockets in more sealed off ones. I more want to know the actual way a smallish stove like mine draws and if my minor problem can be addressed. I believe it can be made safe. I just used McGyver as an example of someone capable of using creative solutions that would be practicle.

Probably quicker to go out there and totally dismantle it and find out for myself.
 
I'd Mcgyver a go-kart, not a stove. If you like that style stove (guessing since no photo) you may want to replace it with a Malm fireplace down the road.
 
How come nobody knows the answer to my simplest of questions....I guess you guys are just out to sell a new stove to somebody...do you even know how they function..not to be rude..but I asked the question about a mile back there. STOVE DRAWS GREAT, just wondered why it doesn't when the fire is low..just one simple question...sigh....
 
I think you may have answered your own question with "it has a few holes". It sounds like air is leaking in even though the controls are closed.

Nobody is trying to sell you on a new stove. We just want you to be safe, even if you put in another old stove. If you need more information we are going to need to see what you are seeing with some pictures.
 
Jaceymae said:
How come nobody knows the answer to my simplest of questions....I guess you guys are just out to sell a new stove to somebody...do you even know how they function..not to be rude..but I asked the question about a mile back there. STOVE DRAWS GREAT, just wondered why it doesn't when the fire is low..just one simple question...sigh....

Not trying to sell you a stove, but I have a bridge in Brooklyn I would love to talk to you about.....badaboom! :)
 
Jaceymae said:
How come nobody knows the answer to my simplest of questions....I guess you guys are just out to sell a new stove to somebody...do you even know how they function..not to be rude..but I asked the question about a mile back there. STOVE DRAWS GREAT, just wondered why it doesn't when the fire is low..just one simple question...sigh....


Send a picture of your stove might get more help, and don't blow up that part of Texas I have grandchildren in Gatesville, Waco, and San Marcos.
 
Even if the pipe clears the eves as you put it; it may not be tall enough. Many stoves include instructions with a minimum height for the pipe. As I said before you may be creating an unsafe condition for your self by trying to make this stove "safe" or use able. Please do not be penny wise and pound foolish. If you have not already done something to hurt yourself do yourself a favor and get someone local who knows about stoves to look at your set up or post some pictures so we could possibly help you get it right... :-/
 
Jaceymae said:
How come nobody knows the answer to my simplest of questions....I guess you guys are just out to sell a new stove to somebody...do you even know how they function..not to be rude..but I asked the question about a mile back there. STOVE DRAWS GREAT, just wondered why it doesn't when the fire is low..just one simple question...sigh....

We can't answer your simple questions because we don't know what you have.

A stove doesn't "draw". The chimney does. Do you have a single wall pipe from the stove, all the way to the top?
 
Yeah, I put together the various clues from a few of his posts; "Single wall is not permitted", So "I replaced the pipe" (with what?) He was checking out a website of VERY basic information wondering what pipe or materials work better.......He uses the word "pipe" only, never chimney. And "sheet metal insert in a window" ?...... with pipe 45* just above the eave...... And when the fire burns down to coals he can see the smoke stop going up the pipe........ Obviously he loses the draft, probably thinks a connector pipe is the same as a chimney, and has no idea of the basics of what makes the stove work.

Jaceymae, do you have a vertical chimney ? This is the engine that drives the stove. They are insulated to stay warm inside, and require differential temperatures inside and out to draft. Single wall pipe cools off very quick when the fire dies, and stops drafting. A metal "pipe" chimney is insulated to keep the heat inside and keeps the draft going. a masonry chimney does the same by lots of mass to retain heat until you load it again.

Everyone here knows that, and how they work, and about the laws that require a class A solid fuel chimney. So no one is going to assume you may have stuck a piece of CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE out the window on a 45 degree angle and expect it to work.......
But that's sure what it sounds like.

If I'm wrong, I'm taking my crystal ball back to the shop.

BTW, we're not all about cast iron earth stove things. Steel Plate stoves may not radiate the heat as long and as good as cast iron, but they are much more fixable, and not fragile. They have their advantages over cast iron. Same as stone has advantages over steel, holding heat for a longer time, or thin sheet metal has an advantage by NOT retaining heat, something in a stove sense known as a disadvantage to us that use stoves to heat an area for longer durations.
 
PS to the original poster:

I have no idea what the exact percentage is here, but I'd bet less that .05% of the posters here are stove sellers. The overwhelming majority are stove 'users'. We'd help you if we can but without pictures and/or more details we simply can't help you.

Asking us to help you without more details/pictures is kind of like taking your vehicle into the repair shop and telling the mechanic "It's making a noise. Fix it - but I'm taking the keys with me when I leave."
 
I gotta get outta this joint
 

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coaly said:
Yeah, I put together the various clues from a few of his posts; "Single wall is not permitted", So "I replaced the pipe" (with what?) He was checking out a website of VERY basic information wondering what pipe or materials work better.......He uses the word "pipe" only, never chimney. And "sheet metal insert in a window" ?...... with pipe 45* just above the eave...... And when the fire burns down to coals he can see the smoke stop going up the pipe........ Obviously he loses the draft, probably thinks a connector pipe is the same as a chimney, and has no idea of the basics of what makes the stove work.

Jaceymae, do you have a vertical chimney ? This is the engine that drives the stove. They are insulated to stay warm inside, and require differential temperatures inside and out to draft. Single wall pipe cools off very quick when the fire dies, and stops drafting. A metal "pipe" chimney is insulated to keep the heat inside and keeps the draft going. a masonry chimney does the same by lots of mass to retain heat until you load it again.

Everyone here knows that, and how they work, and about the laws that require a class A solid fuel chimney. So no one is going to assume you may have stuck a piece of CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE out the window on a 45 degree angle and expect it to work.......
But that's sure what it sounds like.

If I'm wrong, I'm taking my crystal ball back to the shop.

BTW, we're not all about cast iron earth stove things. Steel Plate stoves may not radiate the heat as long and as good as cast iron, but they are much more fixable, and not fragile. They have their advantages over cast iron. Same as stone has advantages over steel, holding heat for a longer time, or thin sheet metal has an advantage by NOT retaining heat, something in a stove sense known as a disadvantage to us that use stoves to heat an area for longer durations.

THANK YOU for reading and attempting a thoughtful reply. This is TEXAS...we have maybe two months of relatively cold that I can manage with a plate sized space heater. When the temps dropped to 11 and stayed below freezing for 76 hours, they shut off the electricity with no warning at two hour intervals. As a backup plan only, I decided to implement a stove that had worked years prior, but I yanked because it was not beafed up underneath. It drew out the pipe beautifully, but was did not extend more than
a couple of feet up the side of the house. I extended that height above the eves as I was told that would make it draw better. It did not. I am wondering why when this worked previously at a shorter level, why drawing should not be better. You have explained that the pipe cools off too quickly. Maybe you people can afford a double walled joint which was quoted at more than 100 bux, but I cannot, and did not think necessary since single wall had worked before. I sent a photo attachment in the first, but it did not show up. Perhaps the laws of physics have shifted since the first incarnation when this stove was functional, but if it worked before, why fix it to the tune of hundreds of dollars as a backup plan to rare events when I only had money for what it is that I did do, which is overkill from what was there in the first place. Thank you for your time to read and process this. I know you all have a better plan and deeper pockets.
 
Again, a picture of the current install (inside the house) and the chimney (outside), will speak volumes.

Get yourself a free photo account at Photobucket, post your photo there and then put a link here in your thread.
 
Franks said:
Could just shoot a rabbit and hope you strike oil
Just sayin

My crystal ball uses Valvoline 10W-40
 
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