1st night with 1150 gals. of heated storage

Sam as RobC I have a 26-99 with 1-1/2" pipe. I have a Danfoss but I have it barely open during normal operation. I usually don't go below 130 on bottom of storage.

I would prefer the new Danfoss because it closes boiler bypass as return tems rise until completely closed.

gg

I keep my tremovar around 1/2 closed. I use a 15-58 grundfos on high. I'm running a 60kw boiler with 1 1/2" pipe.

I always close my bypass loop when I get my storage return water above 150* that way all my water is going to storage not circulating around the boiler making it idle. I can get my bottom temps up to 185*.


Rob

What is the temp of your buffer tank same as the storage or the boiler ?

I have no difficulty raising entire 1000 gal pressurized storage to 190-193F. As mentioned above, the key is loading the wood so as storage begins to top off, the wood load is burning down, output is falling, and no idling. What makes this very easy is weighed wood burns, as that insures a no idle burn and storage end temp at whatever the desired target may be. My Termovar is about 1/3 open until return from storage rises to the 140's, and then mostly closed after that. I always leave it open just a little. My Tarm-storage circulator is a 15-58 on MED.

I can also get to 185 - 190 without much idling. I can get pretty much all the storage to 195 If I do some idling. I never close
the termover all the wat for fear I'll forget to open it.

... which I have done at least twice ... leave it open some, good practice.

Seems I cant get my buffer over 180 °F.

I think if you tinkered with your probe to get outlet temp to match It would probably gain you at least the 6 degres it's off. one
place to start maybe. You would still have a large cushion before you reach boiling with all that storage.

I tried to have a look a the probe. it doesnt seem like it is in a well , feels like it is strapped to the top of the waterjacket. anybody know how the probe is attached on an EKO 40? I was reaching in through the controller opening and could only feel it not see it.

Huff

Probe location is important. On my Tarm, the boiler thermometer reads lower than the hot water output temperature. All of the sensors I have added are surface mounted: fixed with aluminum HVAC tape, then cable tied, then wrapped with insulation -- and mounted close to and downstream of an L or other fitting to turbulate/mix the water and get a more accurate water temperature.

You would think there would be a service manual or parts manual showing locations of parts and such

Thats how mine is mounted. I know your 40 has different sheet metal than mine but cant you pop off the top tins to see the probe?


Rob

Different boiler but mine isn't in a well. It's just clamped on the top of the fire box on the left side and fastened with a wing nut.
Should be able to take the sheat metal off the top I'd think.

Ya I have to get a scew driver with a longer shank to reach the screws holding it on. What sort of adjustment can you do on it.

Huff

you can move it to find a cooler or hotter spot. depending on what you are looking for.


Rob

On mine i slid the probe so it was barely touching the clamp and tightened back down. that got me close. Then I took a small chip of the roxwool insulation from the cover and slide it over the probe and thay got me the rest of the way. It is a little less responsive
but it's not an issue.

Ok I have moved it around a bit so it matches the gauge on the boiler output , I am charging now we will see what happens .thanx guys.

Been away from the "desk" for a few days so a belated congrats to your new 1000 gal storage. Must be wicked nice to be able to cruise along with fewer stoking ups. I see your Smart's snap switch is not in use. Can you do anything with it? I have the 100 gallon Smart and use it for a small buffer tank and a potable hot water tank, but too had no use for the snap switch and then had a light bulb go off in my head! Now I use the snap switch to sense when the pellet boiler is out of service for any reason and is not keeping the buffer up to temp. I use the the switch to fire up my fossil boiler if the temp in the Smart drops to 150 and let the aquastat shut it at the high limit. Another question, you have the Smart IWH, and the high temp water enters on the lower tapping and the cooler exits on the upper tapping. How do you have your new storage connected? Hot on top or bottom? Would it make a difference? Anyway, accolades to you and you "modified and improved" system.

Thanx SmokeEater I need a switching relay for the snap switch ,havent got around to it yet.. right now i'm operating it manually.

link showing how storage is plumbed

http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php?ACT=24&fid=21&aid=64528_wvl96EvliChVquNy0zoZ&board_id=1

Huff

Very interesting. Never saw a pressurized storage system where the boiler didn't go directly to storage. What advantage does intermediate tank and four way mixer offer over the conventional approach?

--ewd

the bigger the buffer, the longer your warm, sounds like your doing good .

The 4 way directional valve always keeps hottest water flowing in and out of storage. I also couldnt fit the two storage tanks in the boiler room the buffer tank allowed me to run the shop heat when the house heat wasn't tied in. To me it was a little more flexible than having one primary loop.
Also adds another 150 gals volume and uses one less pump.

Huff

Did you get your storage temp up any?

No . still stuck at 176 °F I noticed this morning the eko controller reading 7 °F higher than the boiler out gauge.