Lokidric
New Member
Last edited by a moderator:
2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
- Thread starter webfish
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Lokidric
New Member
So pull the whole liner and caulk the seams all the way down? That seems like something the installer would cover.
Maybe this is just a one time thing with new liners?
Stove pipe must be installed so that the male (crimped) end always is points down toward the stove. That allows creosote drips to fall back into the stove and not down the side of the pipe.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Lokidric
New Member
Each piece has varying degrees of melted stickers that look like this. With the word up, and an arrow pointing up. They are indeed pointing up.
UBF is double-wall stove pipe. The inner lining fitting should be correct if the arrow is point up. Did you use ICC chimney too? I have not seen that leak at a seam, I believe those seams are welded.
Lokidric
New Member
I guess i should be asking chimney stuff on a chimney forum. Sorry.
The stove is fantastic and i brag to anyone of my friends that will listen.
The stove is fantastic and i brag to anyone of my friends that will listen.
This is the reason I thought you had class A chimney. Sounds like you have a liner in a masonry chimney rather than class A. Caulking would not be applicable here.
Lokidric
New Member
Sorry I dont know what ICC stands for. Its a stainless double walled insulated liner. Hopefully this was a one time thing.
I recall others reporting "leakage" occurring at the first few firings. Manufacturing oil lubricant that dries out perhaps. Anybody remember this?
Interstate Commerce Commission?
Interstate Commerce Commission?
ICC (Industrial Chimney Company) is the pipe manufacturer in Canada. http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/our-products
Lokidric
New Member
The double-wall stove pipe is labeled UBF according to the picture. DuraVent double wall pipe is labeled DVL.
Lokidric
New Member
It's fine to have a different brand liner or chimney. The connector pipe and chimney do not need to match.
This does not explain the black goo. I would notify the installer, then wait to see if it does it again, if so have them out to see it.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Agreed, stickers are pointed the right way. We can also see the crimps pointing down, in the one photo, which would be correct if this is single-wall black pipe. Now, if that's double-wall black pipe, you must remember it "looks" backwards when installed, as the outer tube has crimps pointing the opposite way of the inner tube. Can you verify that this is single-wall black pipe?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I retract my former statement. Upon closer inspection, it does look like male end up, which would the the appropriate (outward) appearance for double-wall. This is likely not creosote leaking, unless something is seriously amiss within the pipe.
Lokidric
New Member
I got one of the new sirocco 30.1s that have the built in exhaust deck. It looks way better than the convection deck and does the same thing. I don't imagine the convection kit would even fit on these newer versions.
If you havnt seen what it looks like I posted mine like a page back or so.
Last edited:
Ok yes I just found your stove pictures. I guess it doesn't extend as far forward maybe not as efficient at getting the heat over the cat?
If it's not really useful anymore I'd rather not get it
EDIT: I'm impulsive so I decided not to get it. I'm sure I can add it on at a later date if I change my mind. But this way it gives me added surface on the stove top in case I need to make a stew or something in an emergency
If it's not really useful anymore I'd rather not get it
EDIT: I'm impulsive so I decided not to get it. I'm sure I can add it on at a later date if I change my mind. But this way it gives me added surface on the stove top in case I need to make a stew or something in an emergency
Last edited:
Hey guys. This is my first post, but I've been stalking the forum a long time. I recently bought an Ashford 30 that is going to be installed in a new 2000 sq ft house with in southern Indiana.
Would you guys recommend the fresh air kit? Could anyone share whether they think their kit was worth it? My crawlspace walls below the stove where the "fresh air" would be coming from are spray foamed. Would that change the value of it?
Also, I see a lot of guys talk about their burn times. But how much wood are some of you guys burning a year? I've been guessing that I'll burn about 4 chords of mixed hardwoods or so with my set up?
Would you guys recommend the fresh air kit? Could anyone share whether they think their kit was worth it? My crawlspace walls below the stove where the "fresh air" would be coming from are spray foamed. Would that change the value of it?
Also, I see a lot of guys talk about their burn times. But how much wood are some of you guys burning a year? I've been guessing that I'll burn about 4 chords of mixed hardwoods or so with my set up?
Last edited by a moderator:
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Outside air kits should not be set up to pull from the basement. There is no advantage to having an OAK, if it's pulling from the envelope within your house. The advantage of an OAK is that you're pulling outside air directly into the stove to fuel the fire, rather than pulling that cold outside air into the heated envelope of the house, for the purpose of feeding the stove.
If you know your house is exceptionally tight (have you done a blower door test, for reference?), then you may want to do an OAK at time of install. The more common advice is to install the stove, and see how it runs without. If you find the stove stalls until you open a nearby window, then you need an OAK.
- Status
