22 Ton Huskee splitters

Shipper50 Posted By Shipper50, Sep 20, 2010 at 10:03 PM

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  1. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    Nov 10, 2007
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    I bought a 22 ton Huskee on 1-13-07 from a TSC and found today I have metal fatigue on all connecting points that hold the top onto the splitter.

    I am talking about the cord pulling assembly that holds the top onto the engine. I knew it had a couple of places broken, but today I tried to pull the starter cord and the top came up off the engine. There is one bolt on the side that is still holding, but all the other places that hold the cord assembly have broken in 2.

    I wonder if Huskee will warranty this with it being 3.5 years old? It wasn't run when I was laid up with my leg surgery and out of commission for about 6 months.

    Any opinions?

    Shipper
     
  2. thewoodlands

    thewoodlands
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    Shipper50 I was at my local Stihl dealer last fall and he had five (huskee splitters) that he was repairing (warranty work for tractor supply) all types of problems with the shearing of bolts and some other stuff.

    zap / It's not much help but I thought I would post.
     
  3. oldspark

    oldspark
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    Well that blows, they are supposed to be one of the best bang for the buck splitters.
     
  4. ROBERT F

    ROBERT F
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    sounds like it is the engine, not the splitter that is the issue. what make/model engine is powering this splitter?
     
  5. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    It has a 6.5 Briggs. I just looked at the owners manual and it says the splitter is warrantied for 36 months. The engine is covered under a separate warranty. I will have to look into this now I have the owners manual out.

    Shipper
     
  6. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    Your problem is an engine problem, not a splitter problem. Inquire with Briggs. The company has gotten much better over the years. It had to to compete with Honda.
     
  7. burntime

    burntime
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    My 22 ton spee co is about 5 years old. I run seafoam in it and mobil one. Never any issues so far...
     
  8. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    My engine running is not the problem. Its the mounts that hold the engine onto the frame that have broken due to metal fatigue. I also found some bolts that hold the engine onto the frame loose today.

    I put a double 6inch hose clamp around the plastic top to hold the engine down. I started it and it ran OK and will use it like this till I get to a Briggs warranty store and ask them what to do.

    Shipper
     
  9. fidiro

    fidiro
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    Hope you have better luck with huskee than I did with Troy Bilt.

    If possible show some pics to show other huskee owners to see if it's possible to do something to avoid that problem. Is it the vibration of the engine that may have caused it to break, if so would it be possible to install rubber mounts between engine and chassis to prevent this from happening again? I don't know exactly what broke so I don't know if this info. is useful or not but thought I would throw it in.

    Good luck dealing with B&S/Huskee with your problem.
     
  10. flewism

    flewism
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    What? it first sounded like you were talking about the shroud pull starting assembly. Now it sound like the lowercase where the engine mounts to the splitter frame is busted??. We need pictures.
    Briggs and Stratton supplies a two year consumer warranty, so your probably SOL there, but give them a call.
    Parts for these engines are dirt cheap, you can replace that whole engine for $150 with a new one.
    Remove that plastic shroud/ gas tank assembly, and in between the carburetor and the muffler will be a plate with the model number.

    The 6.5 hp quantum Briggs model # 123ko2-0137 e1 on my 22 ton started acting up this spring for the first time in the 5 years I've owned it. It is now running better with a carb/ fuel system cleaning and a new plug. I was going to rebuild the carb, as the rebuild kit was $16, But If I do anything I'll just replace the carb completely for $34.
     
  11. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    Here are 2 pics of my splitter and the broken area and my temporary fix. I dont know if the break will show and I dont know how to put arrows or marks on my pictures.

    It works ok for now with the clamps on it.

    Shipper
     

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  12. fidiro

    fidiro
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    That's why pics are best to explain problems. I thought it was the bottom end of engine where it mounted to the splitter frame/chassis.

    Try removing those bolts and use Big washers to try and catch some extra metal. Fender washers are a nice size but you would probably need to drill the washers to fit those bolts. The more the washer grabs the better the hold so get the biggest diameter washer that will work in the area to fit. If diameter of washer is too big grind problem spots to fit and grab as much flat metal as possible.

    Although this is a problem prone to failure, I wish my splitter problems were this. Others with the same design should go out and get washers to hold better to prevent this from happening, since it's a simple fix I would if I had this engine before it actually breaks like in the pics.

    Good luck
     
  13. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    Thanks for the advise, my main thing is, why did the damn thing break with no more than 25-35 running hours?

    I had another splitter I bought second hand and it was old, never had any trouble with it till it blew a hole in the side. :lol:

    Shipper
     
  14. flewism

    flewism
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    Aug 22, 2006
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    Because it looks like the damn thing has been setting out in the weather for 3+ years. Anyway your engine appears to be the same as mine. If it is and you need to confirm all this based on the model # stated in an earlier post. You need a Housing blower Briggs part number 493294.

    The washer /sheetmetal will work very well if you attach them to the housing via tack welds, pop rivets etc..


    http://cgi.ebay.com/BRIGGS-AND-STRATTON-493294-BLOWER-HOUSING-NEW-/180563884922

    Or just stick with the hose clamp.
     

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  15. ROBERT F

    ROBERT F
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    looks like the recoil housing/fan housing/ gas tank in one? rust weakend the metal and the vibrations along with recoil forces did it in. I agree with fender washers, welded/brazed or pop riveted over the holes as a long term temporary fix. just remember if it is a fuel tank to take all precations while welding. The hose clamp, while effective in appearence, lends one major issue. If that is a metal fuel tank, and is vibrating and rubing around then its only a matter of time before it leaks. Probably on the muffler or cylinder head. then you will have more issues then just broken mounts. words of caution, feel free to ignore as needed!!! I know I ignore my better reasoning all the time!!
     
  16. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    Thanks for the input, the clamps are a temporary fix till I get it looked at or I go to the Briggs shop near my town.

    My question now is, where do all the other splitter users put their splitters with not using them if not outside in the weather?
    You think I am going to haul this thing around by myself in and out of the garage which I dont have room or put in my basement where I dont have room?

    I kept my old one outside for over 10 years and it didn't rust like this one did.

    Shipper
     
  17. flewism

    flewism
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    Aug 22, 2006
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    The basement sounds like a bad idea, just tarp it. I have also seen a person build a simple plywood box just to cover the engine and that was a small commercial tree service/firewood operation with a splitter that cost 5 times what we spent on ours. Mine has at least 150 run hours on it, but it is kept in a pole barn when not in use. It shows no signs of stress or corrosion in the area of the shroud. Remember these are cheap consumer grade engines, leave your push mower outside for 3 years and see what happens.

    Three screws near the recoil under the center plastic clip-on center piece and one on the side will remove the plastic cover/gas tank, you will then only have the fuel line connected. Then you will see a sheetmetal shroud starter/recoil assembly very similar to all Briggs small engines.

    No, it blew out the side LOL, I'm sorry
     
  18. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake
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    I keep my splitter inside the garage (it's pretty large) or in one of my two sheds . . . if I didn't have this option I would wrap it with a tarp and use bungys to secure the tarp and keep things weather-proof.
     
  19. Shipper50

    Shipper50
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    If I tarp this thing wont the condensation build up under that tarp? I had it that way when I first got it and someone told me it didn't make any sense since it could still get moisture built up.

    No looking for sympathy , but with my knee being replaced, its not like I can move this thing around like the old days.:roll:


    Shipper
     
  20. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake
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    I'm thinking there wouldn't be much if any moisture caught underneath the tarp if done in a good fashion . . . as for moving the splitter . . . any way to put a ball on a garden tractor, lawn tractor, etc. to help move it around?
     
  21. fidiro

    fidiro
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    Feb 24, 2010
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    I keep mine covered with a heavy duty waterproof tarp. But, I have traveled back home with it in the rain more than a few times as I split the wood about 1 mile away from home, then it goes under the tarp.
     
  22. ShenValSteve

    ShenValSteve
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    I have the same splitter, no problems at this point. I keep mine in the garage all the time and will tarp it if needs to be left outside at some point in the future.
     
  23. CarbonNeutral

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  24. CK-1

    CK-1
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    You just can't leave equipment like that exposed to the elements. You will have a lot of problems occur down and line. I own and 22 Huskee and keep mine under a tarp near my shed. Rain/water gets everwhere, so its probably started to rust inside the pull coil of the rope and then who knows.
     
  25. oldspark

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