And me getting corn is a hassle also I've tried. All the farmers around me including my grandfather use most of it. Also I don't know anything Bout burning corn but know a lot of people with wood pellet stoves all with harmon stoves of course. My grandfather loves his and he only needs to clean his three times a year. Unlike me who cleans mine weekly it's almost jealousy for me ha. But I like the pellets I have and the stove itself since it was free essentially.
6039t American harvester
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SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
You don't need anything back there (at the pipe), it will suck in all the air it requires by itself. You do need to check something however. You need to pull the left side, side panel (the one opposite to the one you have off in your picture) and check to make sure there is a corrugated foil flex pipe between the pipe on the backside (where it sticks out a bit from the back panel) and the inlet below the auger motor. The reason I say that is normally, that hose length comes in the box with the FAK kit, so it may not be there. If it isn't. That foil hose is readily available at any auto parts store, it's heat riser hose for a gasoline car engine. JC Whitney has it in their catalog too.
You need the hose from the inlet below the auger motor to the pipe stub out back to segregate the required combustion air from the room air blower (which is right next to it)
When you pull the LS panel, be sure to unplug the stove because the control board will come away with the panel and be sure the leads are reattached to the upper thermodisk on the HX when you reinstall the side panel, the leads aren't that long and it's quite possible to disconnect it when removing the side panel. Put a couple drops of oil on your agitator motor bearings while you have the panel pulled and the feed auger motor, that are all exposed when that panel is off. Good time to vacuum the dust bunnies up and oil the RA blower too.
You need the hose from the inlet below the auger motor to the pipe stub out back to segregate the required combustion air from the room air blower (which is right next to it)
When you pull the LS panel, be sure to unplug the stove because the control board will come away with the panel and be sure the leads are reattached to the upper thermodisk on the HX when you reinstall the side panel, the leads aren't that long and it's quite possible to disconnect it when removing the side panel. Put a couple drops of oil on your agitator motor bearings while you have the panel pulled and the feed auger motor, that are all exposed when that panel is off. Good time to vacuum the dust bunnies up and oil the RA blower too.
There is no pipe between the inlet at the back of the stove and the round hole inlet below the burn pot. I assume that's what you're talking about, because they look like same diameter. It's just a bunch of open space besides wires from controls,motors, and auger fan. What kind of oil do you use for those items? Doesn't the oil collect debris?
Oh yeah and does a fan come with this fresh air kit because I looked at the the kit and can't see a fan of any kind. All I see is that foil pipe, hose clamps and pieces for into the wall and for the wall on the outside.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
No fan needed the exhaust fan will pull the required air in through the Metal hose. The hose is actually metal, similar to muffler flex they sell in auto parts stores.
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SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
You need a pipe between the inlet stub below the auger motor and the transition pipe at the back of the stove. If you had it installed (I presume you did in as much as you stated earlier on the pipe was installed in the flue, the installer screwed you out of some included parts.......
3 - 1 motor oil, sparingly on the bearings. You get a little oil / fuzz accumulation after a fashion, it is a mechanical device after all.
3 - 1 motor oil, sparingly on the bearings. You get a little oil / fuzz accumulation after a fashion, it is a mechanical device after all.
I'll be taking a picture for you guys here with in a few days so you can see what I'm talking about. It would probably get rid of misconceptions lol. So the damper install wouldn't help at all with oak?
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
I have both and use both (damper and oak/fak). Having both adds more flexibility, thats all.
This is exactly what the inside of mine looks like. So all I need is the foil pipe to connect the inlet from outside of stove to inlet under the pot?
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Take a tape measure and mearuse the od of the stub at the back of the stove, the inlet under the auger motor is the same diameter. The pipe is corrugated and 'stretches' so just buy the offered length.....
I measured that inlet and it was 2" so I got 2 1/8" I've got that rtv and hose clamps so hopefully that works. 
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Don't put rtv on the hose ends. Not needed. Just a clamp on each end. and even then, I didn't. It's not going anywhere.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
If you want, I guess. Sounds like a mess to me. Dry fit with a band clamp is sufficient, Nothing flows there except air. Once you stretch the hose out to fit, it will stay elongated so it's gonna stay that length anyway. I'd be calling the installer and asking 'what the hell happened to my FAK/OAK'? Every stove ships with it far as I know (if you bought it new that is).
My stove doesn't have no pipe connecting from connection near auger to back of stove either . Should I get pipe to connect mine as well? This might sound like a dumb question but by installing the pipe here between the 2 points like in pic above that was posted what are the benefits to this? I plugged the 2 holes behind fireboard on mine .
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
I'm beginning to think that proper use of the English language, spelling and punctuation is optional on the Internet, in general....
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