1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

A Fresh Eko 40 with 500 gal Storage Install

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by Franzen105, Oct 31, 2011.

  1. ewdudley

    ewdudley Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2009
    Messages:
    1,673
    Loc:
    Cayuga County NY
    Sounds like you've never heard of Afraidium! Galvanized in a pressurized hydronic system? That's crazy talk, mister.

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2009
    Messages:
    209
    Loc:
    west central wi.
    See if this helps Franzen.

    Attached Files:

  3. taxidermist

    taxidermist Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2008
    Messages:
    1,031
    Loc:
    Fowlerville MI
    You can log onto my blog and see my near boiler piping it might help.


    Rob
  4. in hot water

    in hot water New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2008
    Messages:
    895
    Loc:
    SW Missouri
    galvanized is okay in a hydronic system, use a brass fitting if you plan on connecting copper to galv.

    But galvanized cannot be used in a glycol system, according to Dow and other glycol manufacturers.

    As for the sand bed storage, that was intended to work wirh a solar thermal array. The concept is to start loading the sand bed in the late summer/ fall and flywheel off that stored energy into the winter months. Wisconsin solar guru Bob Ramlow promotes that system in your area.

    hr
  5. goosegunner

    goosegunner Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2009
    Messages:
    1,264
    Loc:
    WI
    So how important is it to have brass between Black iron and copper?

    I have heard and read so many differing opinions on that what is your suggestion?

    I have pressurized and treated water system.
    I didn't put brass between mine, should I be planning a change?

    gg
  6. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2008
    Messages:
    1,727
    Loc:
    Southeastern Vt.
    Pardon my ignorance but aren't most sacrificial anodes made of zinc? do they have adverse effects when they deteriorate or are they never in the boiler water stream?
  7. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    Is that just a Ball Valve??
    Do i have to move my Danfoss...???????
  8. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2009
    Messages:
    209
    Loc:
    west central wi.
    Yes ,the bypass is just a ball valve and it looks like your danfoss should swap places with the "T" directly above it.
    Does that lower line that the danfoss is in now connect to the bottom of the storage tank?
  9. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    SO just making sure i have this right
    looking at the Danfoss.. The Circle on the Valve is the Suppy, the triangle will the return from tank. and the square is the return to the boiler. If i blow air through the valve, the air goes through the circle to the square cause its cold. Correct???????????.........

    Attached Files:

  10. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2009
    Messages:
    209
    Loc:
    west central wi.
  11. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    Cool Deal... Thanks

    Attached Files:

  12. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    Well got it all put back together. Pressure tested two tiny copper leaks, and one tiny tank weld leak..... getting ready to fire her up!!!!!

    Attached Files:

  13. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    Well that one leak caused another caused another and another. A day of chasing leaks and She is sitting at 15 psi with no drips. Is it normal that with all this work, i am little afraid to fire it up......:) YICKS....
  14. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    Well I went for it.. Pretty pleased so far. After starting at 49.1 degrees she warmed up the top nicely. The bottem took a while but it is catching up pretty quickly now!!!! Going to drain it in the morning and start over. Perfect timing snowing up here in northwest wisconsin....








    Not to bad after a 5 hour burn with low quality wood ie, dry Poplar, Birch, Maple, Tamarack

    Attached Files:

  15. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2009
    Messages:
    209
    Loc:
    west central wi.
    Nice! Whats the orange thing on the back of the boiler in that last pic?
  16. Gasifier

    Gasifier Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Messages:
    3,137
    Loc:
    St. Lawrence River Valley, N.Y.
    Nice Franzen105. Keep us posted. I gotta get me a few of those digital meters and sensors. Pretty slick.
  17. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    The Orange housing is a hot water filter.
    After only a few hours heating my large sand mass system the floor in the house is already heating up!!! Saweet.........:)
  18. Gasifier

    Gasifier Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Messages:
    3,137
    Loc:
    St. Lawrence River Valley, N.Y.
    All right! Good deal. Keep us posted man. Glad to hear the heat is coming through! :coolcheese:
  19. Franzen105

    Franzen105 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    Amery WI
    So just wondering the Bypass Valve i put in above the Danfoss, when would i use that???
  20. goosegunner

    goosegunner Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2009
    Messages:
    1,264
    Loc:
    WI
    You use that to choke back the flow from the bypass line. If you have temp gauges on the return before the danfoss and the mixed after the danfoss you can close it down as your tank heats some. My initial fire was the only time I had it open very far. It is close to closed now.

    gg
  21. maple1

    maple1 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2011
    Messages:
    3,955
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    Isn't the Danfoss supposed to output the right temperature? I thought that was its function - not quite understanding why a manual valve would have to be added to make it work right.
  22. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2008
    Messages:
    1,727
    Loc:
    Southeastern Vt.
    The water flowing through the bypass line is what causes thr thermostat in the Danfoss to actuate. Circulator activates on return pipe and initially pumps water through the bypass line because at that point in time the automotive thermostat is closed. When the water flowing through the bypass line reaches 140 °F or whatever value you installed it flows on to the sensor part (bulb) of the thermostat and causes it to open. Colder water from your heating loop starts entering the boiler mixing with the warmer recirculating water.

    Now you have two sources flowing, both tempering each other which more than likely will not allow the thermostat to open much or even possibly close again until the flow from the bypass warms the bulb. When the return water from the system reaches your desired temperature, in my case 140 °F the bulb will sense it and stay open, allowing circulation from the heating loop.

    The variable restriction (ball Valve) placed in the bypass line is to limit the flow to your needs. Partially closing it restricts circulation through the loop, allowing more flow from the heat loop. I my case I hit the sweet spot on the ball valve about three years ago and haven't touched it since. Some of it has to do with my set points for circulator actuation but mostly has to do with my heat load or how much heat my flatplate exchanger can transfer into my unpressurized storage tank.

    Wanna see how it works. Close the bypass valve completely and the Danfoss will never open.
  23. maple1

    maple1 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2011
    Messages:
    3,955
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    I must be slow, I'm still not understanding it. Does the (hot) bypass loop actuate the thermostat, or the (colder) return line? The bolded above seem to be contadictory on that. On the last line, if the bypass valve is opened completely, won't the danfoss thermostatically regulate itself? I thought it worked by sensing the water entering from the return side, and if it wasn't warm enough [say when below 140] it would introduce warming flow from the bypass. Then even if it worked the opposite (sensing bypass temp and [say when above 140] opening the return to introduce cooling flow from the return), I still don't see how manually valving down the bypass flow to it will put more flow through - that would seem to create a situation where you would be trying to direct more flow against what the danfoss would be trying to regulate through itself (making it fight itself?). Maybe I'm just overthinking things.
  24. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2008
    Messages:
    1,727
    Loc:
    Southeastern Vt.
    I don't see that the two statements are contradictory. Perhaps if I said "The hot water flowing through the bypass line is what causes the thermostat in the Danfoss valve to actuate"
    In the second bolded statement if I say " When the water from the heat distribution loop reaches your desired temperature, in my case 140 °F the bulb will sense it".

    I don't know how to explain it any clearer. Perhaps if you don't think of it as being complicated and sleep on it you will understand. Or perhaps someone who explains things better than I can chime in.

    PS. You do know what an automotive thermostat looks like, don't you?
  25. maple1

    maple1 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2011
    Messages:
    3,955
    Loc:
    Nova Scotia
    Yes, and automotive thermostats don't need a manual valve added on to make them work - which is likely why I haven't got my head around this yet.

Share This Page