Looking to add a 3rd function to my tractor, LS XJ2025H. Any others done it themselves to their tractors? Did you buy a kit? Find all parts separate?
Adding 3rd function to loader
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SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I got a kit from Everything Attachments and had my dealer install it along with a factory second remote. You could probably DIY the third function kit if you are handy.
How do you want it to work? An individual function or there is a diverted valve I believe, you hold a button and it controls a solenoid. Then while you are holding the button, you use your dump function to operate 3rd function. Let go of the button and you have normal loader functions. I personally do not like that set up but it's cheaper than adding another valve. Does your tractor have a rear remote?
A diverter valve costs about the same as the solenoid valve for a true third function. With the diverter (or a repurposed rear remote like I'm using) you can "feather" the grapple. Which I have never needed- I hold the lever down until the lids stop crushing whatever's in them.
Summit makes a generic 3rd function kit that has a high quality joystick knob with switches. You'll have to make brackets and run hoses. Given the joystick knob you'd be hard pressed to assemble the parts yourself for significantly less.
Everything Attachments has kits that are model specific but cost more.
Summit makes a generic 3rd function kit that has a high quality joystick knob with switches. You'll have to make brackets and run hoses. Given the joystick knob you'd be hard pressed to assemble the parts yourself for significantly less.
Everything Attachments has kits that are model specific but cost more.
Currently have no rear remotes. Would like the 3rd function to have its own control.
I saw the summit kit. Looks nice. Not sure how the handle would feel ergonomically.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
The third function diverts the pressure from your curl or lift function on the loader and uses it for your attachment. It's not a dedicated third hydraulic valve. This means functionally you can't close a grapple while lifting the loader boom or curl the end of the boom if that's how the hydraulic lines are functioning. If you have one pair of remotes you can run the lines from the back of the tractor up to the loader, but then you have to use one hand to control the remotes and one hand to use the loader joystick.
Skid steers usually have a "true" third function hydraulic setup on the loader rather than splitting one of the loader systems. I'm not sure if tractors can accommodate such a setup. I use my third function for my grapple and front end loader hydraulic auger drive, and have no complaints or need to use both loader functions while using the third function. My grapple and auger drive are both designed for a skid steer, but my tractor has enough power, weight, and hydraulic flow to use them.
This is what I trying to say. Lol. I think a true 3rd function would be a lot better. Does ls offer a kit for it?
Guess I didn't completely understand how it worked. Thought it tapped into the pressure line going to the loader control. Got it now.
Don't think LS offers a kit for my tractor. If they do I bet it's pricey.
Was thinking of upgrading to a new tractor with some of the options I currently don't have. Thought it would be cheaper to just add them.
What's involved in adding remotes? Is there a min gpm I should have to consider adding remotes?
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I don't know much about your specific tractor. Kioti claims my DK4710SE can move 16 GPM (I assume at peak RPM), which is comparable to a compact skid loader. That really only matters if you want to use hydraulically powered attachments, like my auger drive. If your tractor has enough hydro pressure to move the loader and pick up heavy stuff, then splitting one of the loader functions for a 3rd function should be no big deal. My kit came from Everything attachments, and looks like it wasn't that hard to install. I don't have a garage, barn, shop, etc. to do work in, so I just let my dealer do it while they had it there to install the second remote.
If your tractor offers remotes as a factory option, it should be "fairly" easy to add them. On my tractor it involves removing a rear wheel and some other stuff, but LS may be different. If you have one remote set you can get a Fasse valve to split it into two remotes that cannot be used at the same time. It's like the 3rd function setup, but you can feather the hydraulics since it is just an electric splitter valve. I plan on adding a Fasse valve to each of my rear remote pairs for four output pairs so I can use a top and tilt kit along with my stump grinder.
I didn't really understand this before I got my 3rd function, I just knew that's what I needed to use a grapple. Knowing what I know now I would still do the same. The electro-hydraulic 3rd function on my tractor is just a momentary rocker switch in a loader knob that controls a pair of lines connected to my curl function. If you can find a skid steer style true third function for your tractor that would be slick, but I'm not sure how you would control the third function. The E-H style 3rd function with rocker switch is nice for the grapple, less nice for the auger. Sometimes I think about running the auger off of my remotes instead of 3rd function, the lever control for the first pair of remotes has a detent that keeps the valve "open" instead of me having to hold a button or lever in one direction.
A diverter switches your loader usually the curl/dump circuit to operate the grapple or whatver you plug in. A true 3rd function is its own valve. The diverter lets you feather the grapple while the 3rd function is either on or off. The diverter requires a button press and a joystick movement, the 3rd function just a button. Which ever works for you.
With the diverter, if your loader valve has regen on dump that may make the 3rd function not work exactly like you want. If it's plumbed so dump closes the grapple it might not have much force. With the 3rd function, if you plumb before the loader valve the loader valve won't see any flow when the 3rd function is in use. If you plumb it after, on the loader's power beyond, it still might not see any flow when the loader is operated. Many loader valves route all flow to tank when a spool is activated.
My Branson's loader valve has regen and also routes all flow to tank when operated.
Even without those issues, it's unlikely you will be able to operate the loader and grapple at the same time. When flow goes to two cylinders at the same time (without a flow divider, just a tee), the cylinder with the least resistance moves first. I see that with my dual lid grapple. One lid usually moves first. And that's with two supposedly identical lids and cylinders. Just production differences. So it's likely that either the grapple or the loader will move but not both at the same time.
With the diverter, if your loader valve has regen on dump that may make the 3rd function not work exactly like you want. If it's plumbed so dump closes the grapple it might not have much force. With the 3rd function, if you plumb before the loader valve the loader valve won't see any flow when the 3rd function is in use. If you plumb it after, on the loader's power beyond, it still might not see any flow when the loader is operated. Many loader valves route all flow to tank when a spool is activated.
My Branson's loader valve has regen and also routes all flow to tank when operated.
Even without those issues, it's unlikely you will be able to operate the loader and grapple at the same time. When flow goes to two cylinders at the same time (without a flow divider, just a tee), the cylinder with the least resistance moves first. I see that with my dual lid grapple. One lid usually moves first. And that's with two supposedly identical lids and cylinders. Just production differences. So it's likely that either the grapple or the loader will move but not both at the same time.
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