another new system

[taylorfarms]

first time poster, long time lurker

We have been talking about replacing our OWB for years (20 year old hardy H2,120k btu not really big enough, with underground lines 4 feet deep that melt the snow)
we have a 3500 sf farmhouse built in 1875, that has some mostly new windows, a new insulated foundation, and some rooms that have been reinsulated, all new windows were this summer, so i don't really know how it will heat yet. the hardy kept up unless it got really cold, like below 0 with 40mph wind, but we have LP fireplaces to supplement and are replacing our 300k btu dinosaur of a gas boiler this year as well.

we would like to find a gasser to put in a shed with storage (old NH3 tanks) that we could someday upsize to a bigger boiler to heat our shop too, but for now we want a used one to kind try out? just seems kinda overwhelming when i could put in a used central boiler cheap and fast. ans yeah we have an almost unlimitied supply of firewood, from the forest and dry oak from a tie plant.

 

[taylorfarms]

I forgot to add that the house has some in floor radiant (more every year) and fin tubes, and we were planning on building another shed for to store firewood anyway. Like the idea of a gasser for less wood (the hardy would run nonstop and eat almost a cord a week in cold weather). but i have never really been around them and am hesitant to drop 10k into a system i might hate in a year. i know most prople will tell me to just heat with LP but we have always heated with wood and really dont want to change, as we are continually cutting trees and brush and hate to just push it in a pile and burn it.

 

[jasonh]

Check the for sale page on this site. There's a couple garns on there that shouldn't be to far from you. They're used but they have a stellar reputation. I'm sure others will chime in to help you out. Alot of good and knowledgeable people on here. You might want to state what your budget is.

 

[Pat32rf]

I would start out by obtaining enough of the proper piping to run from your probable final boiler site over to your house, then do away with that snow melt system and connect up the new pipe, even if its just burried 6" for now. By spring you will see what a difference proper pipe makes. You may even decide not to switch your old unit for a while...

 

[taylorfarms]

well, I got some new lines i need to get buried (building new shop and trying to get all of our equipment back home has been a headache). Got a lead on an econoburn 200 to put in a shed. Kinda looking for some feedback from econoburn users, most of my dry firewood is cut off RR tie ends(not treated just dry white oak), that are 2 inches to 2 feet long. I was wondering if i got a good coal bed going if i would be able to get those blocks to move or if they would bridge constantly and be a PITA. thanks in advance BTW i got in 1 1/4 pex-al-pex preforma-flex i know it is an evil wrapped product, but thier testing says it is better, and i was told if i did not like it they would give me a refund. Figured i could try it and hopefully post good results in the underground lines sticky, or feel like a bufoon as is typical. Also would residue from old NH3 tanks casue any problems with a boiler system?

 

[bags]

The tie ends are wood and will burn fine. I burn all kinds of unconventional wood waste crap in my Woodmaster. Skids included. Just mix it up some and load it smart. Touch call on upgrading as I am in the same boat and have a good working old smoke dragon too. The main problem I have is the amount of wood it likes to eat. I also have an unlimited supply of wood here but the time to deal with it is another matter.

When I did my install I used insulated pipe and ran it inside another insulated larger pipe so mine has no issues there. Works very well. I have seen some around with the green grass growing above in the snow. LOL! You are losing a bunch of heat there as you have figured out.

 

[maple1]

well, I got some new lines i need to get buried (building new shop and trying to get all of our equipment back home has been a headache). Got a lead on an econoburn 200 to put in a shed. Kinda looking for some feedback from econoburn users, most of my dry firewood is cut off RR tie ends(not treated just dry white oak), that are 2 inches to 2 feet long. I was wondering if i got a good coal bed going if i would be able to get those blocks to move or if they would bridge constantly and be a PITA. thanks in advance BTW i got in 1 1/4 pex-al-pex preforma-flex i know it is an evil wrapped product, but thier testing says it is better, and i was told if i did not like it they would give me a refund. Figured i could try it and hopefully post good results in the underground lines sticky, or feel like a bufoon as is typical. Also would residue from old NH3 tanks casue any problems with a boiler system?

Their 'testing' is based on testing of a new product, or maybe not even installed in the ground. Spending a period of time in the cold damp ground often tends to junk test results. So good luck.

Econoburns are decent boilers, and built like tanks. Should be lots of info around here if you do a quick search.

Don't think I've read of any kind of residue problem - but you could pressure wash them down inside if you want. I did that to my LP tanks, although think it was a waste of time. They were pretty clean to start with. I used a gutter wand, and straightened out the bend on it a little bit. Worked pretty good.

 

[taylorfarms]

Yeah maple, it makes me kinda nervous with the wrappe stuff now, but i have a tile it will have to cross anyway, thinking about tying into that tile and laying a tile and sand underneath, just to keep it dry, since i have a tile close by to tie into. I guess if it does not work out we will take the excavator and tear it out and take it back, will at least be worth entertainment value. might go and get some dri-therm to pack around them too, never heard it mentioned around here but it is good stuff, waterproof, self compacting pour in insulation- only been around it a few times but they said it keeps the asphalt lines hotter than the foam we tore out.

 

[Pat32rf]

What is this dri-therm? I wonder if you were to prop that wrapped stuff up on blocks of styrofoam, and then foam around it would it be possible to get a suitable result?

 

[taylorfarms]

Dri therm is a flowable dry powder that is waterproof, seems to work pretty good from when i have been involved with it, plus the company has a terminal 2 hours away from me (i think it has been 9 years since i was there) www.dritherm.com. Ended up with an econoburn 200 that i paid a dollar a pound for, has 4 seasons on it. Hopefully will be pouring concrete for a boiler shed next week, depending on the weather.

 

[maple1]

Make sure you give that Econoburn a complete disassemble (well, as much as it can be disassembled), and a deep cleaning. You don't (I don't think?) know how the previous owner operated it, and if it was neglected or not burned right & dry wood wasn't used, it could be chock full of creosote.

 

[taylorfarms]

well, I finally got time to get back to this project, the shed has walls, and I am working on the rafters. I know it is winter, but I have not had time, our farm grew by about 50% this year and the equipment grew by about 10% but it is all paid for, I would rather keep the wheels turing 24/7 than go way into debt, again.

we decided to go with the foam insulated rehau 1 1/4 pex, it is not in the ground yet, but the excavator is working it's way back to my house before we start tearing out more timberlines to put up an irrigator, and we do not have much frost to speak of yet.

Anybody know where I can find a 1 1/2 danfoss valve? All I can seem to find is 1 1/4, and econoburn says the boiler loop needs to be 1 1/2, or will I be ok with a 1 1/4 on the 200?

well I guess I do not have to worry about my firewood supply, I was not thinking I had enough dry stuff a home for a winter, but at this rate it will be after X-mas before this thing is online, and I will have more than enough to run from then on. the hardy is burning trees that were ripped out his am as we speak and yes I know that makes me a sinner here.

 

[JohnDolz]

well, I finally got time to get back to this project, the shed has walls, and I am working on the rafters. I know it is winter, but I have not had time, our farm grew by about 50% this year and the equipment grew by about 10% but it is all paid for, I would rather keep the wheels turing 24/7 than go way into debt, again.

we decided to go with the foam insulated rehau 1 1/4 pex, it is not in the ground yet, but the excavator is working it's way back to my house before we start tearing out more timberlines to put up an irrigator, and we do not have much frost to speak of yet.

Anybody know where I can find a 1 1/2 danfoss valve? All I can seem to find is 1 1/4, and econoburn says the boiler loop needs to be 1 1/2, or will I be ok with a 1 1/4 on the 200?

well I guess I do not have to worry about my firewood supply, I was not thinking I had enough dry stuff a home for a winter, but at this rate it will be after X-mas before this thing is online, and I will have more than enough to run from then on. the hardy is burning trees that were ripped out his am as we speak and yes I know that makes me a sinner here.

Not sure what valve you need but I have gotten a couple of Danfoss mixing valves (including a 1-1/2") from SuppyHouse.com.

 

[maple1]

I just looked & didn't see a 1-1/2".

I would suspect the 1-1/4" would do, if the rest of the loop & piping is 1-1/2". But I would ask Econoburn - if they say no, then they should be able to advise you of the solution & what to use instead, since it's their boiler you're trying to make work, and everyone else who buys one would be in the same situation.