Another newbie looking for advice
- Thread starter avsmusic1
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
You'll know within 90 days if something serious is wrong, hell you should know in a few days.
jdp1152
Minister of Fire
Kosmik
Member
Hence, make sure you have some wood good and dried out. Going to be a lot harder to tell if something is wrong with the stove, if there is something wrong with your fuel...
I though all sorts of stuff was wrong with my new stove, then learned problems easily fixed with a flue damper and the driest wood in my wood pile.
EDIT: And stove top and flue thermometers.
I though all sorts of stuff was wrong with my new stove, then learned problems easily fixed with a flue damper and the driest wood in my wood pile.
EDIT: And stove top and flue thermometers.
Last edited:
Another newbie/lurker, so I don't have a lot of expertise. But I'd suggest one thing - it's hard to predict which rooms the stove will heat up and how much. Better to get a wireless thermostat that you can move around as you see how the wood heat works than to do work to hardwire one somewhere and find that room varies too much with the fire.
I'd recommend to not get the Lopi Declaration - it is poorly designed and will not live up to the expectations from the sales literature
NHcpa
Minister of Fire
bobdog2o02
Minister of Fire
My post was not a slight against Jotul. I've never even touched one. There was a thread active the time of my post that you quoted that was about a Jotul owner with an insert install in a ~1900SF split level that couldnt move heat from the bottom level. Bad install, no insulation, unseasoned wood. Perfect storm.
OK - change of plans.
After hearing a couple of mixed reviews from a couple of co-workers on the other store I was planning to do business with I decided to look around a bit more. I think I would have been ok but that mild doubt coupled with the fact that the stove was used was enough. I circled back to the store closest to me (literally walking distance) that I've heard great things about from one of my neighbors and they were selling the Regency i2400 off their floor. It's not quite as pretty but it seems like a good deal, they have sold a ton with great feedback, it's the same size firebox, and I like the idea of being able to walk down the street if there is ever an issue.
They sent an installer out today per my request to take a quick look at my space. Overall, it was good news with the exception of one thing. The damper opening is rectangular so the installer said he would have to ovalize a section of the liner to fit it. He said they may have to use a 5.5" liner too. I was a little uneasy about this but the installer said he didn't think it would impact drafting and that it isn't a safety concern. I still wanted to get some additional opinions here though. I searched some past threads but didn't find anything that quite addressed my situation. Should I be concerned or is it nothing to be worried over?
Thanks!
After hearing a couple of mixed reviews from a couple of co-workers on the other store I was planning to do business with I decided to look around a bit more. I think I would have been ok but that mild doubt coupled with the fact that the stove was used was enough. I circled back to the store closest to me (literally walking distance) that I've heard great things about from one of my neighbors and they were selling the Regency i2400 off their floor. It's not quite as pretty but it seems like a good deal, they have sold a ton with great feedback, it's the same size firebox, and I like the idea of being able to walk down the street if there is ever an issue.
They sent an installer out today per my request to take a quick look at my space. Overall, it was good news with the exception of one thing. The damper opening is rectangular so the installer said he would have to ovalize a section of the liner to fit it. He said they may have to use a 5.5" liner too. I was a little uneasy about this but the installer said he didn't think it would impact drafting and that it isn't a safety concern. I still wanted to get some additional opinions here though. I searched some past threads but didn't find anything that quite addressed my situation. Should I be concerned or is it nothing to be worried over?
Thanks!
Grisu
Minister of Fire
Congratulations. Did the installer also check the hearth? I remember the Regency I2400 needing some thermal protection when installed flush with the floor like it seems to be in your case. Not sure what is under the tiles you have there.
Hello Not a fan of ovalizing coming through the damper- normally you would cut the damper housing out of the way, allowing the 6 inch ss liner to oome through un-impeded. Having said that, a 5.5 inch would probably work fine, if the MFR allows that size... Good luck and get your wood started now..
Grisu
Minister of Fire
I would inquire about that if necessary directly with the company. Here is a quote from the manual (page 8):
"Hearth thickness of 0.5" with k value = 0.84", r value = 0.6 or greater" and "The specified floor protector should be 3/8" (18mm) thick material with a K - factor of 0.84. The proposed alternative is 4" (100mm) brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8" (3mm) mineral board with a K-factor of 0.29."
A simple hearth pad won't give you that.
Ricky8443
Burning Hunk
I have virtually the same house. Drafty, brick colonial, lots of rooms. I started my search in same mind frame as you. Looks are the best right? Problem with aesthetics in this situation (and mine) is that you're going to burn yourself out of the room anyways because its too small, so you wont get to enjoy the fire dancing. You also don't want to be one of those people that get the stove for aesthetics and then stop using it after a year or two because of the work. Take your time and continue doing your research, sounds like your off to a great start.
Interesting. I had read that in the manual as well and actually asked the gentleman they sent out about it. That was when he suggested the hearth pad. Looking through the manual again, it appears I would need this level of protection to extend the full 18" from the door opening, correct? I believe I have that level of coverage for the ~20 inches my hearth extends from the fireplace but I would only have ~14" from the firedoor opening.
http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/I2400-918-171.aspx
Grisu - I think the pad the installer was talking about was something along the same lines as what's in this link http://www.build.com/hy-c-t2ul3652b...49416787039!&gclid=CODUw9ikjb4CFS9o7AodHioALg
The unit is approved for a 5.5" liner. My fear is that he may need to ovalize it slightly still (just my uneducated speculation at this point). Is it typical to cut out the damper assembly entirely vs removing the door?
Grisu
Minister of Fire
A type 2 pad should be fine as it usually has the required r-value. I would get one that is long enough to cover the entire hearth area, not just some add-on to your current one. Especially if you don't know for sure that there is nothing combustible under your current hearth. Considering you have carpet I would do more than the required 18"; I had embers pop for a good 2 ft. Make sure your local building inspector/insurance are ok with that solution and don't require a more permanent/fixed hearth.
We will eventually redo the living room and I'll extend the hearth at that point but the mat seems like a doable option until then. I appreciate your point about embers popping out further and I've had that experience myself. I may opt for a deeper mat as a result but I'm really hesitant to buy one to put under the unit b/c we like the look of the current hearth and would like to put the mat in the closet when we're not burning the stove. I'm virtually certain that I have the r-value needed under the stove, I'm just not 100% on whether or not it extends the full 20" that the stonework does.
I talked through the plan to add the insert with my insurance company and they are OK with it. It's going to cost me an extra $75 a year or so, but they are fine so long as it's installed professionally and not intended to be the primary heat source. Interestingly enough, they seem more sensitive to freestanding stoves than inserts.
Any additional thoughts/opinions on the ducting? It would only be ovalized for the one section and I have a ~30ft chimney.
I talked through the plan to add the insert with my insurance company and they are OK with it. It's going to cost me an extra $75 a year or so, but they are fine so long as it's installed professionally and not intended to be the primary heat source. Interestingly enough, they seem more sensitive to freestanding stoves than inserts.
Any additional thoughts/opinions on the ducting? It would only be ovalized for the one section and I have a ~30ft chimney.
bobdog2o02
Minister of Fire
- Status
Similar threads
