Anyone use these Tyco Butt connectors from Home Depot? Do they work well?

[Don2222]

Hello

I want to use them to connect # 18 gauge insulated solid conductor wires together in the house.
These are Crimp and Heat. $3.99 for a 10 pack

Are they any better than the old just crimp-on butt connectors?

See pics
Click to enlarge:

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Here is a pic of the regular Red Tyco Electronics Crimp Connectors. They are cheaper. Only $1.99 for a 10 pack

 

[oldspark]

I never had much luck with butt connectors on solid wire. I am sure they work but dont trust them.

 

[Grannyknot]

I always solder and then slide heat shrink tubing over the joint.

 

[ironpony]

I always solder and then slide heat shrink tubing over the joint.

me too.....

 

[nate379]

I usually use marettes for house wiring.

For the butt connectors, didn't know Tyco made those (don't they made kids toys??) I get ones that are just metal and I put shrink wrap over. Cost a few $$s for a bag of 500.

Also works better if you cut the wires not to same length to stagger where the connector is, then when you put heat shrink over the whole deal (or tape I guess) it's not a big bump.

 

[billb3]

the adhesive is supposed to help keep the weather out.
In a marine environment they work for about 3 years and then the adhesive stops adhesiving / adhering. Whether it's because the tubing is drying out and shrinking or the insulation on the wire I don't know.

I'd rather use the old fashioned rubber tape and 33+ tape.


solid conductor wire I'd rather use a box and a terminal strip or marettes.

butt splices and solid conductor can get hot.

 

[nate379]

I worked on a house that some owner had wired outlets and lights using butt connectors to join the wire! I don't know if there is anything in the NEC that would allow that, but I do know that I have never seen anything BUT marettes used for something like that!

I know the butt connectors, spades, etc ARE used in some appliances though.

If you do use them, get a decent crimper, not the cheap stamped steel ones! I used to use one and had the wires pull out before. Good thing I always "test" with a bit of a tug before calling the connection good.

I got these now and no wires coming out:http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=O2PhTvTAIsLmiALM4OioDw&ved=0CHsQ8wIwAg#

 

[btuser]

I never had much luck with butt connectors on solid wire. I am sure they work but dont trust them.

The only time I use butt connectors is when I'm trying to hide a splice in a pipe .

Just kidding. I hate butt connectors.

 

[oldspark]

I never had much luck with butt connectors on solid wire. I am sure they work but dont trust them.

The only time I use butt connectors is when I'm trying to hide a splice in a pipe .

Just kidding. I hate butt connectors.

They have there place but yea I hate em too.

 

[heat seeker]

Butt connectors are unreliable, IMO. Sooner or later the wire oxidizes, and you get a bad connection. I solder and heat shrink connections. And, as mentioned, staggering the splices is a most excellent idea.

 

[nate379]

I have good luck with cutt connectors and a good quality heat shrink. I have some underhood wiring on my Jeep that I took apart a few days ago for something else and it looked just good as new. It was stuff I wired up around 10 years ago.

 

[gpcollen1]

I like the ones that you insert the wire and then squeeze to make the connection...like these. These are not the ones I used last time but similar...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103500

 

[semipro]

Both mechanical splicing and soldering have their advantages/disadvantages. Soldering alone does not provide an adequate mechanical connection but does provide an excellent electrical connection that's not prone to corrosion. Crimp type connectors can provide an excellent mechanical connection but are prone to corrosion that leads to electrical connection issues. An acquaintance that was an aircraft A&P mechanic told me that all connections on planes were required to be crimped because of vibration issues.

If you do use crimp type connections make sure and crimp them well. There are at least two distinct styles of crimpers. One is just an oval shape and is intended only for insulated splicers. I've never found these to work well.

The other is more of "u" or "m" shape. and is meant for uninsulated splicers.

I use uninsulated splicers with the proper "m" crimpers and then solder and add heat shrink tubing.

 

[MasterMech]

I have all but abandoned insulated terminals/connectors for mechanical/automotive wiring. In the house there is no vibration/heat/oil/dirt like there is on machines and that's how we get away with wire nuts and crimped connectors. Nothing pi$$es me off more than finding wire nuts on automotive/mechanical wiring. oops, I'm getting a bit excited - breathe - sigh -ok. I'm better now.

Crimp connectors on solid wire is something I've never had much luck with. Stranded is different, and I prefer the type that crimps two tabs into the strands in a nice neat fashion as opposed to just squeezing the connector around them. I'll usually turn-around and solder those connections too and heat shrink over them. Overkill? maybe... Bad connections? Never.

+1 on buying a quality crimping tool. It makes all the difference. If you really want to use the insulated connectors then pay attention to where the metal sleeve "splits" inside. I always crimp with that at 12 or 6 o'clock on the very rare occasion I've been coerced into using those. The heat shrink on the ends (like the first pic) is nice but makes the part much more $$ and when you get a bad crimp or loose connection (it will happen) you have to cut it off and start over. Non-insulated terminals and bulk heat shrink is much cheaper and works better too.

 

[semipro]

If you really want to use the insulated connectors then pay attention to where the metal sleeve "splits" inside. I always crimp with that at 12 or 6 o'clock ....

I do the same and forgot to mention that. I do the same with the uninsulated connectors also.