Base Board Radiaters in Bedrooms no Heat

[Mad Trapper]

I run Hercules Chemical buffered Propolyene Glycol in my shop PEX closed loop system. It's good for -100 before solidifying and it's cheap too...and non toxic. Only way to fly

What he said. Good anti-corrosion anti freeze in the hydronic system, make sure your backflow valve on the feed is working. You can do this yourself with a pump if you have things setup with proper boiler drains/valves..

Also makes sure you have purged any air from the system

 

[heat seeker]

IMO, if 3 cups of water dropped your pressure that much, your expansion tank is not working.

 

[SidecarFlip]

You can actually evacuate the entire system (not right now when it's cold outside but when it's warm outside... above freezing... by using low pressure compressed air and blowing the system down to the lowest accessable point and the refilling with propolyene glycol. I fill my system at the highest point (through the boiler pop off and let gravity and the feedwater pump fill the system. You'll still get entrained air but you should have O2 seperators to pull the oxygen from the fluid. I run 4 myself.

 

[UpStateNY]

Update, I worked on this problem off and on over the weekend. Sunday I stopped working on the problem. Still no heat in half the radiators for the upstairs zone. No worries I got pellet hear for upstairs. Tuesday morning its real cold outside so I try turning on the upstairs zone heat. A few minutes later ALL radiators upstairs are producing heat. Problem solved and no leaks. System fixed itself. Problem solved. Its Thursday now and it still works. Go figure.

 

[tomc585]

My neighbors pipes also froze last week with the woodstove running, I think there is a pipe running in an un-insulated area somewhere.
Oatey makes a good product Cryo-Tek™ anti-freeze for peace of mind or install a cyclic timer to your controller to automatically cycle the zone or zones for 5min every hour when temps dip low.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cyclic-puls...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item1c4c74c00f

Don't use automotive type antifreeze in home heating systems, it has poor heat transfer and adds resistance to the flow. It may also void your boilers warranty.

 

[mepellet]

Therm guard is very well received by many members on hearth.com

 

[maple1]

I would bet you had a frozen pipe that eventually thawed out again - and are very lucky that it did. If it had burst before it thawed, you would be in a world of hurt right now. Keep a very close eye on your boiler system, pipes & pressures. If you don't use the boiler, I would shut off the fresh feed to the system - temporary freeze ups can weaken solder joints and they won't show up until they eventually come apart for no apparent reason, at which point your fresh feed will keep the water spewing at the break.

 

[UpStateNY]

I would bet you had a forzen pipe that eventually thawed out again - and are very lucky that it did. If it had burst before it thawed, you would be in a world of hurt right now. Keep a very close eye on your boiler system, pipes & pressures. If you don't use the boiler, I would shut off the fresh feed to the system - temporary freeze ups can weaken solder joints and they won't show up until they eventually come apart for no apparent reason, at which point your fresh feed will keep the water spewing at the break.

Good advice maple1. I have been doing just that all along. At this point no leaks. Actually bleeding a few cups of water out does reduce the water pressure enough to notice the difference.

Someone else posted that they thought the pressure tank was bad. The pressure take is warm at the top and not hot at the bottom. Therefore the pressure tank is good.

BTW the reason for posting here is it seem to be a problem that others with pellet stoves that infrequently turn on their oil boiler may have.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Good advice maple1. I have been doing just that all along. At this point no leaks. Actually bleeding a few cups of water out does reduce the water pressure enough to notice the difference.

Someone else posted that they thought the pressure tank was bad. The pressure take is warm at the top and not hot at the bottom. Therefore the pressure tank is good.

BTW the reason for posting here is it seem to be a problem that others with pellet stoves that infrequently turn on their oil boiler may have.

Thats not necessarily a good indicator of static charge. To really ascertain static charge in a pressure equalization vessel, you need pressure gages on the feed side and the return side and both should show equal pressure of ___ pounds when the feedwater pump is off.

I like to maintain at least 3 psi on my system when the fluid temperature is ambient and 10-12 psi when the fluid temperature is in operating mode. Feeling the tank top and then the bottom really isn't a good indicator as to if the internal bladder is intact, only pressure gages wi8ll tell you that and/or bleeding some sir from the sh=chrader valve at the bottom of the tank. If you bleed the schrader valve and yiu get liquid, the tank is no good. If you get air, your bladder is intact.