Best performance ever from my Englander NC-30
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It never hurts to play around, but in the scheme of things, I doubt you'll see any real difference. I ran for years without sealing it up, and personally noticed no real difference after doing it with the gasket rope and rod.
At the end of the day, I wasn't looking for a gain in doing it, I was doing it on principle that seemed like a good idea based upon good recommendations.
That said, any rod added that has any weight to it at all certainly should be put on the sides of the baffle where it has more support, and not in the center where its weight could potentially stress the burn tubes and cause sagging.
pen
At the end of the day, I wasn't looking for a gain in doing it, I was doing it on principle that seemed like a good idea based upon good recommendations.
That said, any rod added that has any weight to it at all certainly should be put on the sides of the baffle where it has more support, and not in the center where its weight could potentially stress the burn tubes and cause sagging.
pen
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I didnt think of that ,the weight possibly sagging the burn tubes. They get pretty hot, so sagging is a real possibility.
My stove temps are up considerably.where before i was cruising at 450-500 and the air adj about 1-1.5in out,tonight when i left the shop stovetop was 600 and air adj was all the way in(Low). THis colder weather helps too by pulling stronger draft.
Looked up at my baffles again tonight, and they appear to have warped a bit. There's a good 1/4" gap between the top of the front tube and the bottom of each baffle. This is all the way across, and it doesn't look like the tube has sagged at all. Hmm...
Mine are doing that too.I figure at some point you could take them out and flip them over. It dont seem to affect performance at all so, no sweat over that.
I just took the performance up another level.
No 1. I sealed up some draft leaks around my chimney cleanout. Made a big difference.
No2 I put the rod on the side and turned the baffle boards around so they fit tighter.
Needless to say the stove performs even better. I can now run the stove exclusively on minimum air and still get a hot stovetop and blazing secondaries.This never happened before in the 3 years iv been running the stove. Its all about the draft and a tight baffle board dont hurt either.
Has anyone had their Baffle Boards get cupped. The edges started to go up in the air ,both front and back. Needless to say the screw holding the front air tube broke off in the stove,so i put a screw in the air hole on the right side of the tube in one of the air holes closest to the right side so the tube wont work its way right and fall out. I guess the correct way is to drill out the broken screw but this was quicker.
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The first season or two with my stove I remember them cupping a bit, but they eventually went back to normal on their own and don't do it anymore.
Dave K
Burning Hunk
Great thread. I am considering that NC-30 because its a great price and seems like a lot of people on here love it. I will be sure to use this thread to get the best performance out of it (if i end up getting it).
No cupping yet but I haven't sealed the edges with a rod either. Do you think the cupping is related?
I noticed that you have to remove the screw to get the baffles out for cleaning and that the screw looks small and easy to seize. That screw not only retains the tube but also fixes the angle of the air holes. It needs to be right. Is the screw breaking a common thing?
The boards were already cupped after about 1 year,stove is 3 Yrs old. I just flipped them over so they should flatten out. I only recently added the rod a few days ago. Be careful if you do this(flip boards) cuz they are fragile. Pen said its common for them to cup and then eventually flatten out. I fully expected the screw to break off,which it did. Not wanting to spend the time drilling it out(ill do that later),I just reinstalled the tube in the correct position and put a screw in the first air hole on the right to stop the tube from backing out and falling into the stove.
Cupping boards? Broken screws? Seven seasons and haven't seen this stuff? Finger tight is enough with the screws folks. All they do is keep the tube from rotating. Ain't much torque generated by flames.
And don't tell me I ain't getting it hot enough.
Only one here that has admitted a grand stovetop in one of'em
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And don't tell me I ain't getting it hot enough.
Only one here that has admitted a grand stovetop in one of'em.
Was the First time i ever took a tube out. Screw was tight from the factory and broke off trying to take it out.Max stovetop so far is just over 700 but the way she is runnin now that may go up. Increasing the draft seems to turbo-charge this stove.Finger tight is enough with the screws folks.
And don't tell me I ain't getting it hot enough.
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I honestly don't know how other people have made out with them if they cup, them flattening back out is simply what happened with mine.
Im pushing for a HOTTER stovetop with a LOWER air setting. After all the idea is to get more heat and a cleaner burn. Thats what i seem to be getting with the improvements i made.
Many other 30 owners here already get great results cuz they have had good draft (and tighter baffles) right from the start. Im just achieving that now. ID say im getting at least 100-150 degrees hotter stovetop now at a lower air setting than previously.
aaron1
Member
I guess I was hoping for a clean burn at a lower draft setting as a possibility. If I burn long enough at high draft, I can eventually go to low draft and have a nice secondary burn.
embers aplenty
Burning Hunk
I know this is an older thread but a good one. I recently bought a used NC30 off of craigslist for my garage, which I really like to say the least. I found a 1/4" grade peg in a scrap bucket, cut it off and installed it on the left side of the of the insulation boards. I haven't burned it all that much since then but I can already tell I can keep the stove top temp up easier with less air. Might put the rod inside a gasket later.
Love the 30 with it's nice roomy fire box. Works really sweet in my drafty garage. Throws out the heat and holds fire for hours. Reminds me of my old Grandma Fisher but more up to date and way better oral hygeine.
Love the 30 with it's nice roomy fire box. Works really sweet in my drafty garage. Throws out the heat and holds fire for hours. Reminds me of my old Grandma Fisher but more up to date and way better oral hygeine.
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