1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

Big bar for Stihl 064

Post in 'The Gear' started by Joful, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    I'm getting into more and more stuff where my 28" bar is too short. I'll be cutting up another two big oaks tomorrow, and while I can get thru them with the 28" bar, a bigger bar would make things a little easier, I think. Particularly for the miles of 30" trunk I seem to be cutting some weekends.

    I love the 28" bar, but as a second bar, how big would you go? I know Stihl recommends bars up to 42" on this saw (85cc), but I was considering something closer to 36". Thoughts?

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    3,687
    Loc:
    Indiana
    How big of trees are you running across? 28" bar should be plenty enough for 40" trees without switching sides if you start at the top, cut down the opposite side, then down the side you are on.

    If you still feel you need a bigger one, 36" bar will comfortably handle 48" trees from one side and you could probably get through 80" if you had a flat spot one one side (which most trees do, especially when they get that big).
  3. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Thanks, lukem! I've claimed a 42" ash and a 60" ash in my last two trips out, only the former of which I had to fell myself. The second ash was a two-trunk beast already downed and "split in twain" by Sandy, so I was only cutting on maybe 34" - 40" diameters. I'll be attacking two downed oaks soon, each close to 50" diameter.

    I can do all of these with the 28" bar, but always have to go at them from both sides. I'm often in places where it's much easier or safer to work from one side than the other, particularly when felling(!), so wanted to minimize how often I needed to work from both sides. There's also a certain amount of fun factor to trying a bigger bar.

    Ever since I bought the big saw, I seem to get a lot of calls from folks who have real big stuff, that they just can't do with their 50cc saws. Fine for me, as I do find the big stuff exciting. The question there is, how big a bar is reasonable for an 85cc 064AV? 36"? 42"? Something in-between (although I've not seen anything between these sizes)?
    swagler85 likes this.
  4. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Messages:
    3,687
    Loc:
    Indiana
    You could do either size, I would think, if you were running skip chain. Not really my area of expertise though so I'll let others chime in.
  5. fabsroman

    fabsroman Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Messages:
    1,012
    Loc:
    West Friendship, Maryland
    I am running a 25" bar on my 660 and thinking about going to a 36" bar here real soon. Like you, it seems that everything I get nowadays is 36"+ because nobody else has the gear or wherewithal to tackle it. Provides a lot of firewood though.
  6. Thistle

    Thistle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Messages:
    4,206
    Loc:
    Central IA
    36" .063 gauge bar & full skip chain on that saw will rock your world.....::-)
    ScotO, Jags, smokinj and 1 other person like this.
  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    If the trunk is only 20% (or therabouts) wider than the bar, then overbucking as described above would work quite well. Problem is that it sounds like you're getting into trunks that are a bit large to be reaching all the way across them. :p If the bar is no longer poking out the bottom of the log before you get to the point where you can reach that cut from the near side, then it's time to cut from both sides or go for a bigger bar.

    I used my 034-20" to cut up 24"+ wood without having to cut from both sides. I'd try it with a smaller tree/saw to get the hang of it (not hard, it's an easy technique to master.) and then give it a go with the big gun.

    I would have zero reservations about picking up a 36"+ bar for that 064.
  8. swagler85

    swagler85 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,195
    Loc:
    NE Ohio
    Wow this makes me want to step up to a big saw REALLY bad.
  9. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Yep... I already do the overcut, and that's how I usually go thru 30 - 32" wood with the 28" bar. Trouble here is, I'm doing more and more stuff where I'm falling a few inches short, even using that technique. I always fall back on working both sides, but often it seems one side of the tree or log is less safe for working than the other, and so I'd like the flexibility of getting more of these things from one side.

    42" would be great, but I wonder if 85cc is enough for a bar that big. I suspect it is, as I've seen 60" bars on 100cc saws.

    Thistle... I think my 28" bar is 0.050". Any trouble running the 0.063" on the same rim sprocket? Are rim sprockets made to different gauges? What about odd sprocket and drive link wear, switching between gauges on the same rim sprocket?

    Thanks!
  10. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Skip chain time. Will make a big difference in sharpening time too. ;)

    No problems with .063 on the same rim. I'm assuming you're looking at an Oregon bar? Stihl doesn't list a 42" Bar for the 3003 (024-066) mount.
    ScotO likes this.
  11. computeruser

    computeruser Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Messages:
    343
    Loc:
    East Lansing, MI
    36" with skip and the high output oiler should be OK, but not terribly speedy. 85cc isn't huge.

    I've done the whole scrounging for big firewood with big saws in the past and found it to be more work and more labor than it's worth.
    LEES WOOD-CO and smokinj like this.
  12. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Thanks, guys! 36" is probably the next step, i guess. Never considered Oregon... I thought they were consumer grade junk?

    Definitely more trouble than it's worth, but I'm helping a friend, and it's sort of fun. Went down to his place today, and couldn't even get at the two big oaks I had checked out in October. Sandy took down about a dozen big oaks, ash, and poplar, all piled atop one another. Cut up one 24 - 30 inch black oak and one 18 - 24" ash today, maybe 3 cords worth. Might be some time before we get back to those real big oaks I was shopping this bar for!
  13. iskiatomic

    iskiatomic Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2008
    Messages:
    725
    Loc:
    Central CT
    I run Oregon chains, never had a problem here. For the lenght of the bar you are talking, skip tooth my friend is a must.

    KC
  14. Thistle

    Thistle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Messages:
    4,206
    Loc:
    Central IA
    If you're thinking of the worthless Vanguard low kickback safety chain with the fold over rakers found in the big box stores & most all 'hardware stores' today,then yes.

    Oregon LGX72 full comp & JGX full skip (both yellow label on the box) are a whole different animal.Heavy duty very aggressive pro chain,not found at the big box stores.When I started cutting 32 yrs ago,all you could find was full comp pro chain- even in local farm supply stores,small engine/saw shops & hardware stores."Safety" chain didnt exist back then.
  15. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

  16. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Cool... Thanks, guys! 36" skip 0.063" it will be! I'd been shopping Tsumara Total and Carlton, but will check the Oregon pro stuff, as well.
    ScotO likes this.
  17. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Why the .063? You can still run .050 on a 36".
  18. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Good question... but I don't know the answer! You tell me.

  19. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    I could see the .063 bar being a bit more rigid but other than that (and I try not to bend them that way? ;lol) I don't really see the need for it.

    Hey Thistle! Why the .063? :)
  20. Thistle

    Thistle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Messages:
    4,206
    Loc:
    Central IA

    Mainly cause I've only seen that gauge listed for bars 36" & longer.At least the info at Oregon,Baileys etc over the years.Bars 28" & under can be found in all 3 gauges for some reason.My fav local saw/OPE shop set me up with that bar in Apr. '94 for the Poulan 475/Granberg mill combo,guessing wider gauge is stronger chain when heavy stress is put on it? I'd like to go .404 pitch bar & chain really,the thought of shelling out all that extra cash to replace 3 bars & 10+ chains is holding me back though......_g
  21. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    As long as the same rim sprocket can be used with 0.050" and 0.063" (still thinking this might accelerate wear on the sprocket and chains), I have no problem going 0.063". I will say, the few 36" bars I've put my eyes on were all 0.063", but I wasn't really looking for such a beast at the time, either.
  22. fabsroman

    fabsroman Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Messages:
    1,012
    Loc:
    West Friendship, Maryland
    So, can a .050" and .063" chain be run on the same rim sprocket? Think that would be a big deciding factor on a chain/bar upgrade for me from 25" to 36". Would like to be able to swap the combo at will without having to change a rim sprocket.
  23. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    They definitely can be, per MasterMech's post above, but should they be?
  24. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Maybe someone with some .063" 3/8" chain can measure for us but IIRC the overall width of the links is the same, just the drive links are thicker.
  25. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,522
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Yep... but it's the drive links that leave the wear pattern in the rim sprocket. So, my thinking is, the 0.050" chains will wear a bit of a "V" into the driving edge of each pocket on your rim sprocket, which will then cause some wear on the driven edge of the 0.063" drive links. Likely not a huge deal, but definitely going to speed wear a little bit, at least in theory.

Share This Page