BKK blowers- can you burn them out?

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Beetle-Kill

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Sep 8, 2009
1,849
Colorado- near the Divide
I'm getting better heat distribution with a floor fan and the blowers off, than with the blowers and floor fan working together. The stove top stays @ 500, CAT is good, and flue temp. is 500 or less. IF I don't run the blowers at these temps., do I risk causing them damage due to the radiant heat and inaction? I've not been able to get the stove top above 560 °F without maxing out the CAT temp., with blowers running.
 
Really just curious if I should/could remove the blowers and change the stove from a convective heat exchanger- to a radiant one.
 
Is yours a ultra with shields?
 
Beetle-Kill said:
Really just curious if I should/could remove the blowers and change the stove from a convective heat exchanger- to a radiant one.

That's what I'm planning to do--get the stove without shields or blower, use walls to catch some radiation, use a ceiling fan instead of a blower--silent.
 
RenovationGeorge said:
Beetle-Kill said:
Really just curious if I should/could remove the blowers and change the stove from a convective heat exchanger- to a radiant one.

That's what I'm planning to do--get the stove without shields or blower, use walls to catch some radiation, use a ceiling fan instead of a blower--silent.
Interesting,
We use the ceiling fan maybe 1/3 of the time...hardly use the blower.
Maybe when it's colder out I might run the blowers on low just to load the stove if needed.
The BK Classic without shields or convection top is heating our 2500sq.ft. house just fine right now.
But I have wondered how the Ultra does compared to the Classic.

BTW..I can get the stove top higher with the blowers off.
Our old (24 year) Classic the blowers only worked on high the last 7 years.
 
Nope- Parlor with shields. And I've removed the shields 'cause the left side way exceeded the min. clearance, and the right side is 10.25" at the corner with no discernable heat on the wall. ( The wall at that location is a funky cement stone, that is 3" thick on average) With the stove at 550 °F top temp, the walls are barely warm. I'm good in that respect.
 
I don't see a reason to have shields then or is it needed to make the convection top work right on the Ultra?
 
HotCoals- you must have a tighter house than I do, I'm having troubles keeping things up to temp. in my place. ?-Have you noticed any problems with your blower, without using it much?
 
Beetle-Kill said:
HotCoals- you must have a tighter house than I do, I'm having troubles keeping things up to temp. in my place. ?-Have you noticed any problems with your blower, without using it much?
It's still in the 30-40's around here.
No probs yet and I don't really expect any.
We heated with a non cat BK Classic for years..heated fine but a lot more wood went through that stove.
Where do you run your thermostat?
Maybe you need to turn it up some?
The blowers can set for years and be fine...just run them once a week or so for a while.
Using a ceiling fan set to blow air down the walls works good ..or use a box fan and blow air into the room your stove is in.
 
Also if you run your air wide open(past3) with the cat engaged you should still be able to hit 600 if you have a decent draft.
I can do it easy. Without the blowers on...the blower will keep the stove top temp down.
Matter of fact if I get the top to hot I turn the blowers on high to cool it down.
This is my first cat stove so I'm still learning..two weeks tomorrow.
 
yep. I usually go thru about 3 cord of blowers a year
 
RenoGeorge- My guess- totally off the cuff- is that you'll not need the side shields. But I don't recall your proposed instalation either(my bad). I would keep the blower option on the table, as I really think it'll be a benefit when it's not that cold out. A ceiling fan is in my future also, but the blower will be utilized in the meantime.
 
HotCoals- about 2 week of operation for me also. Guess we're both learnin' this sucker, huh. I am shopping for insulation as I write.
 
Beetle-Kill said:
RenoGeorge- My guess- totally off the cuff- is that you'll not need the side shields. But I don't recall your proposed instalation either(my bad). I would keep the blower option on the table, as I really think it'll be a benefit when it's not that cold out. A ceiling fan is in my future also, but the blower will be utilized in the meantime.

Yessir, I try to keep my options open, and learn and change as information comes along. I'll be stubborn right up to the point where I change my mind. So yes, I'll keep the blower in mind.

I'm planning a nook installation: bigger than an alcove, 10' W x 3'd, with a 45 degree angled ceiling to guide the air out into the room. It will also have non-combustible materials and clearances, allowing the stove to be used safely without shields, which will allow an external fan to cool it (by heating the air) efficiently. My hope is that this configuration will take maximum advantage of a ceiling fan in front if it, allowing heat to be distributed efficiently and silently.

What's your thinking about a blower being better on moderate days? Because those days don't need that much airflow?

EDIT Darnit--nook 10' W x 3'd. Someone else thought it was 3'w, and I guess I got that stuck in my head!
 
Beetle-Kill said:
The stove top stays @ 500, CAT is good, and flue temp. is 500 or less.

What sort of heat output/burn rate is this? I've seen reports of flue temps below 200* on slowest burns.
 
I'm at or below 200° most of the time..8 inches up.
Cruise stove top right before the cat gauge is usually 350-375.
I would like to hear how he's getting close to 500° on the flue also//maybe he's talking about the collar.
 
RenoGeorge, I can't tell you one way or the other at this point- I'm too new to the Blaze King to give you other than initial impressions. Here's what my gut is telling me, and this only pertains to my house- which was put together in '76, after the cabin it was added to was placed in '54. Can you say "rough sawn lumber-non dimensional"? Insulation, not really there- 'er nope, not there at all in areas. If you have a structure that is halfway sealed up, with a decent floorplan, the BKK may be the way to go for you. I would look for posts by "Hiram Maxim", 'cause he just got his up and running, but his place is alot tighter than mine- guaranteed!! You make the call.
 
Beetle-Kill said:
RenoGeorge, I can't tell you one way or the other at this point- I'm too new to the Blaze King to give you other than initial impressions. Here's what my gut is telling me, and this only pertains to my house- which was put together in '76, after the cabin it was added to was placed in '54. Can you say "rough sawn lumber-non dimensional"? Insulation, not really there- 'er nope, not there at all in areas. If you have a structure that is halfway sealed up, with a decent floorplan, the BKK may be the way to go for you. I would look for posts by "Hiram Maxim", 'cause he just got his up and running, but his place is alot tighter than mine- guaranteed!! You make the call.

Hey BK (Hmmm, Blaze King, Beetle Kill, BK... coincidence?),

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I've been mining this site like a terrier, working to get the lay of the land and refine my install plans. I think I may have a fairly stable install design, and when I do I'll post it. I have time, since I won't be installing until next year--at least I'll be one of the few who got wood curing long before the stove purchase.

I've been following your, Solar, HotC, Eco, Hiram and other's posts with great interest. Good luck, and please keep updating us with your experiences.
 
Hanko said:
yep. I usually go thru about 3 cord of blowers a year

As long as they're seasoned. %-P
 
HotCoals- Flue temp. is measured 19.5" above stove top. Condar probe, so not a surface thermo.. With the bypass open, I've had it hotter, I don't like to engage the CAT until it's registering about middle of the first third (1/3rd.) on the scale. For the last two weeks, my flue temps. and surface temps.(stove top) have been within 100 °F of each other. My max. probe temp. was about 750 °F , had that sucker ripping before I closed the bypass. For the most part, the stack temps. so far have leveled out with the stove-top temps., or gone just below that mark. I'm burning Lodgepole Pine and Aspen, what do you expect?
 
Beetle, are you locking your bypass down. Clockwise. Hearing the second thunk after it stops? I dont think I have ever seen my flue temps above 350F. Not on a medium burn #2 once its settled in. :coolhmm:
 
north of 60 said:
Beetle, are you locking your bypass down. Clockwise. Hearing the second thunk after it stops? I dont think I have ever seen my flue temps above 350F. Not on a medium burn #2 once its settled in. :coolhmm:

Yes, BK's intro video specifically shows how to adjust it for correct engagement, so it seems adjustment and correct engagement are important.
 
[quote author="Beetle-Kill" date="1290842925" IF I don't run the blowers at these temps., do I risk causing them damage due to the radiant heat and inaction? [/quote]

Hey BK,

To answer you're original questions, I don't know for a fact, but that would be a really bad design if you could damage the fans, on or off, without overfiring the stove.

I'm curious to see where this flue temps issue leads. If you're cat's not fully engaged you're not getting all the performance you can.
 
HotCoals said:
BTW..I can get the stove top higher with the blowers off.

That makes sense--you're loading/cooling it with the fan, making your heating more convective (hot air) and less radiant (hot stove). Does it make the heat seem softer, less harsh?
 
Beetle-Kill said:
I'm getting better heat distribution with a floor fan and the blowers off, than with the blowers and floor fan working together. The stove top stays @ 500, CAT is good, and flue temp. is 500 or less. IF I don't run the blowers at these temps., do I risk causing them damage due to the radiant heat and inaction? I've not been able to get the stove top above 560 °F without maxing out the CAT temp., with blowers running.


No, you will not harm the blowers.

You should be able to get the stove top much higher. I've had mine above 700 with no ill effects.

AT what point in the burn are you getting 500 flue temps? Did you install double or single wall flue? are you using a magnet mount, I.R. gun, or probe into the flue?
 
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