Blower question
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Probably, but it might not work any better than the box fan, which could be a bit better positioned.
The stove needs its air intake control. As shown it's running wide open which is a waste of wood. If it doesn't have a baffle, that may also help performance, assuming that dry, seasoned wood is the fuel.
The stove needs its air intake control. As shown it's running wide open which is a waste of wood. If it doesn't have a baffle, that may also help performance, assuming that dry, seasoned wood is the fuel.
Thx for replying! Where should I place fan ? Inside the box it does have a baffle . I will say wood can be a little more seasoned . I also feel like when door is open obviously fire is hotter and wood burns faster . When door is closed i can’t see flame like I can on my stove in house with glass front . I feel like this thing should be putting out more radiant heat than it is .I can hold 3ft logs in it . My only guess is wood not as seasoned as it should be
Yes, sounds like the wood needs more seasoning. The stove will never be that efficient, so adding damp wood really knocks it down. Keep an eye on chimney accumulation. Damp wood can build up creosote quickly.
Position the fan so that it blows directly over the stovetop.
Position the fan so that it blows directly over the stovetop.
Now when door is closed I can’t see fire so should I just go on what I see from chimney ? If I see smoke then I’m not burning good ? In my house I have a insert with glass so I can see how well wood is burning .
Put a thermometer on the stovetop and another on the stovepipe about 18" above the stovetop. That will provide instrumentation to guide you, after the spin damper in the door is put back in.
So this is a 30x40 pole barn with opening to roof . Thermostat above burner gets up to 75 . I know I can’t heat whole barn to 75 but like to get some heat to travel around . So u don’t have to sit right by stove . I’ll check temp on other side of barn in a hour or so see if I get a change in temp .
As noted, you need wood stove thermometers to know how the stove is burning.
I'm guessing that the pole barn is also tall. Maybe 15' to the peak. This is wood furnace territory if the goal is to heat it up to 60F from cold when outdoor temps are low.
I'm guessing that the pole barn is also tall. Maybe 15' to the peak. This is wood furnace territory if the goal is to heat it up to 60F from cold when outdoor temps are low.
Thx for the info . I’m actually going to move burner so I can run the pipe up through roof. Then atleast I will have 15’ of pipe giving off heat .
Do you have an IR thermometer to check surface temperature?
Couple things don't look right. Is there 36 inches from stove to the combustible building materials behind it? 18 inches from single wall pipe to combustibles behind it?
Glass is not needed to see the fire to control it.
Was there a smoke issue inside that caused the use of sealing tape at pipe joints?
Firebricks extra, or from inside stove? Are they all installed inside it?
Do you have the intake air damper? It should use far less air than removing it totally. Only a turn or two open is normal. The more you open it, the harder it burns, but the more air volume goes through stove, and more air slips up chimney doing nothing for the fire, just cooling the chimney, slowing the stove. Too much air adds to more heat loss up chimney. That's what opening the door does. Over 3 turns open should sound like an oil burner and roar up stack. You need to get temperatures of connector pipe surface and chimney flue about a foot down inside at top to know where to set the air control.
With no air damper and no flue damper it should overfire and be glowing.
15 feet of connector pipe is not the way to heat a larger area. Heat with the stove by raising surface temperature, not losing it up the stack trying to keep chimney hot. You're just making a condenser that will cool flue gas as it rises and slow the stove down doing that.
Couple things don't look right. Is there 36 inches from stove to the combustible building materials behind it? 18 inches from single wall pipe to combustibles behind it?
Glass is not needed to see the fire to control it.
Was there a smoke issue inside that caused the use of sealing tape at pipe joints?
Firebricks extra, or from inside stove? Are they all installed inside it?
Do you have the intake air damper? It should use far less air than removing it totally. Only a turn or two open is normal. The more you open it, the harder it burns, but the more air volume goes through stove, and more air slips up chimney doing nothing for the fire, just cooling the chimney, slowing the stove. Too much air adds to more heat loss up chimney. That's what opening the door does. Over 3 turns open should sound like an oil burner and roar up stack. You need to get temperatures of connector pipe surface and chimney flue about a foot down inside at top to know where to set the air control.
With no air damper and no flue damper it should overfire and be glowing.
15 feet of connector pipe is not the way to heat a larger area. Heat with the stove by raising surface temperature, not losing it up the stack trying to keep chimney hot. You're just making a condenser that will cool flue gas as it rises and slow the stove down doing that.
No combustible products behind other that the 2x4 running across barn . If I was keeping it here we were going to do a brick backing . Bricks are extra .the inside has bricks on floor and sides . But don’t they restrict radiant heat off the sides ? Yes vent taken off because my wood that I used wasn’t seasoned enough . The tape on connections is just extra . No smoke has come out . We are moving stove to center of barn so we will have 15’ of pipe running up so more radiant heat can be used .
Bricks reflect heat back into firebox causing a cleaner burning fire and increasing firebox temperature. They prevent warping when firing hard. They retain heat longer extending the radiating time adding mass to the stove.
A stove that has sat for a period of time allowing bricks to absorb moisture from the atmosphere all summer won’t radiate much heat until the moisture is carried away as steam. Same as with new bricks. Big difference with heat output the second fire.
A stove that has sat for a period of time allowing bricks to absorb moisture from the atmosphere all summer won’t radiate much heat until the moisture is carried away as steam. Same as with new bricks. Big difference with heat output the second fire.
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