Brand Pumps???

[MyOutdoors]

I'm ready to install my pump for the dual 1" lines. It looks like a Taco 014 will cover my situation...9 gpm @ 16' head. Should I go with a Taco 014 or Grundfos UP 15-100F. If the Taco, as an open system, I'm supposed to use the bronze as well?

 

[jebatty]

I think few use bronze on an open system (domestic water is different). Water testing and treatment is needed on an open system. Acidic water, admission of O2 and hardness are the main culprits, and periodic retesting and additional treatment as needed. I used a cast iron 009 on my system for 10 years, and prior owner before that, and no failure. Be sure to use isolation valves on both sides of the pump to allow for easy removal, service or replacement. if ever needed.

 

[in hot water]

looks like the Grundfos 26 99 Super Brute, 3 speed would fit. might be less $$ than the 15-100?

hr

 

[MyOutdoors]

I'm also thinking of moving the pump from it's current location(OWB) to inside the house. Should I put it on the return or supply side?

 

[MyOutdoors]

What about the stainless pumps for OWB use?

 

[heaterman]

I'm partial to Grunts myself. The Taco's are decent pumps but seem to have a little more trouble with air in the lines when mounted with the flanges in the horizontal position. I've switched out a Taco for a Grunt and it will keep the air moving where the Taco burned up. Would really like to get my hands on some Wilo's and try them out.
Now, if you need higher flow rates I have had excellent luck with the Taco 1400 series. They start out at about the 15 GPM range and go up from there and seem to work very well on systems with low suction pressure such as found in an open system. You might want to look at a 1400-20 for your application. It'll run happily with lower NPSH than the 0014 will.
As far as the bronze or stainless issue is concerned I really can't say that I notice longer life with them due to the fact that the motor usually let's out the magic smoke before the casting corrodes through.

 

[Gooserider]

I'm also thinking of moving the pump from it's current location(OWB) to inside the house. Should I put it on the return or supply side?

The big thing you need to think about, especially with a hign volume / high head pump is to make sure that you have sufficient feed pressure and volume going into the pump to avoid having cavitation in the pump impeller which will give you a lot of noise and destroy the pump in short order. It is one of the many big reasons why pressurized systems are desirable, and is something that is a frequent problem with OWB setups. The more powerful the pump, the more it is prone to cavitation. To prevent this you need to have a certain minimum number of feet of "Net Positive Suction Head" or NPSH, which is a spec you can usually find from most pump makers. It boils down to the system being able to supply enough pressure and volume of liquid to maintain the pressure of the fluid entering the pump chamber above the point where it would otherwise flash into vapor and cavitate. Because OWB's are normally at atmospheric pressure this is often a challenge. With the pump near the ground under the OWB, at least you have the height of the water in the boiler pushing through a short (minimal head loss) line to hopefully get close to the minimum NPSH - often it isn't enough. I would be worried that if you put it in the house, unless you had some sort of storage tank feeding the pump (and I'm not sure how much that would actually help) the head loss of the piping going to the pump would take away from any height advantage that you got from the elevation of the boiler tank.

With this in mind, I would want the pump as low as I could manage, on the supply side, so as to minimize the head losses, and hopefully keep enough NPSH to make the pump happy.

Gooserider

 

[MyOutdoors]

Thanks guys. I ordered the 0014. Doing the heat loss calculation with the software Heaterman suggested, I'm looking at 53,000 btu's WITHOUT my DHW. I'm doubling up the underground line to 4-1" lines. I've also eliminated alot of 90's and wasted copper. Using the Taco pump chart, it looks like I'm shooting for 9 gpm and just over 16' of head. The OWB manufacturer also has the supply coming off the bottom of the boiler which should help as well. If you may recall, I had problems with cavitation last season running an 0013 at the boiler but with single 1" lines. Any other suggestions? Oh ya....damn copper fittings add up!

 

[heaterman]

You'll do better with the 0014 than you did the 0013. It's designed for lower head applications than the 13. Let us know how it turns out.