Brush-on High Temp Paint?

[Burn-1]

I have an Englander 30 that I am repainting where there was some minor rust. I was lucky to get the manpower to get it in my basement and would rather not hassle my friends to help me move it outside to paint and then move it back. I don't have a respirator so spray painting it in my basement is out of the question and I would rather not use stove blacking.

I see that there is a brush-on high temp paint. If anyone has used it and can recommend any tips, brush size and brush type or any other advice I would appreciate the counsel. Thanks.

 

[pen]

I have used that on my old Fisher stove and am very happy with the results. Last year I used the spray can version and was very unhappy. The overspray was virtually unmanagable and the finished and cured product would literally wipe off of the stove. I sanded and painted the stove again this year with rustoleum brush on and it set perfectly and gave me the finish I was looking for.

Just be prepared, the first few times you fire after painting you are going to be dealing with fumes. To deal with this, I burned on a warmer day so that I could open windows and doors.

pen

 

[webby3650]

I painted my Jotul 606 with cheap high temp. spray paint and was very unhappy with the results. You could wipe it off like dust, that was very disapointing since I just had it sandblasted. I had to start over, this time I used Stove Bright paint satin paint. The results were impressive. It is a totally different product than high temp paint from Lowes, it had very little over spray and used less than half the amount. Lesson learned. :ahhh:

 

[Burn-1]

Thanks Pen, I didn't know that Rustoleum made a high heat paint. That will be my first choice unless my wife wants a different color than black which appears to be the only color Rustoleum makes . Stove Bright makes a few different colors in their brush-on product.

Did you have to special order it? Or, was it readily available at a store?

 

[mellow]

Lowes carries both the spray and roll on versions.

 

[pen]

Yep, as mellow said, I purchased mine at lowes. I bought a pint and barely used 1/4. 1/2 a pint if available should be sufficient.

Just make sure you do a good job on prep and make the first coat count! No second coating with this kind of paint. (You could, but you'd have to wait until it cured which would mean extra stink in the house from multiple break-in fires.)

Also, my stove looked a bit uneven after 3 days of air drying, but smoothed right out to a nice even satin finish (that is sticking nicely) after just a few burns.

pen

 

[bren582]

I am planing on painting the heat shield and damper block off plate for my install, insert in an outside exposed fireplace. I bought the Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat Ultra spray paint in semi gloss black.

The can says it's rated to resist heat to 1200 degrees F and can also be sparyed on stoves, just no exposure to direct flame like most paint products.

I didn't notice a high heat brush on counterpart at either Lowes or Home Depot.. Can you confirm on the heat rating for that? I would rather brush on versus spray but didn't think it was an option..
Thanks

 

[Burn-1]

Just make sure you do a good job on prep and make the first coat count!

I was just going to steel wool the surface and then clean it up with mineral spirits. Would that be enough prep?

 

[pen]

I am planing on painting the heat shield and damper block off plate for my install, insert in an outside exposed fireplace. I bought the Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat Ultra spray paint in semi gloss black.

The can says it's rated to resist heat to 1200 degrees F and can also be sparyed on stoves, just no exposure to direct flame like most paint products.

I didn't notice a high heat brush on counterpart at either Lowes or Home Depot.. Can you confirm on the heat rating for that? I would rather brush on versus spray but didn't think it was an option..
Thanks

That is the same product that I purchased (name wise) in the brushable version. The only difference is that it is rated to 1000 not 1200.

It definately came from lowes.

pen

 

[pen]

Just make sure you do a good job on prep and make the first coat count!

I was just going to steel wool the surface and then clean it up with mineral spirits. Would that be enough prep?

It is if you are using the Coarse steel wool, especially for any rust areas. I used a sander in addition to steel wool but I had an area where the previous owner let water consistently rust the area. Came out good as new.

pen

 

[drizler]

I wouldn't get worried about painting in the basement with rattle can paint as long as there isn't anything down there like your favorite Harley Davidson, big screen tv or something that some overspray paint dust will get on. For a respirator just go to the local Chinese Tool Mart and get one of those or Lowes, Home Depot ect. Any respirator will work just fine with this kind of paint as they contain no issocyanates. That is the ingredient in 2 part paint which uses hardener and it can ruin your lungs. Any paint you don't have to mix with hardener is no big deal, just use some sort of paint mask. Set up some cross ventilation and a fan or 2 will clean your basement out fast. I bet you will have more stink from the burn in afterwards.
When you are prepping metal I always use laquer thinner. It will melt through and remove all the leftover oils and waxes that will ruin your new paint job by reducing its adhesion or bubbling up into an orange peel surface due to contaminants. Getting the surface absolutely clean is paramount.
You can get a good job from a rattle can, just remember one thing. As paints go rattle can paint is VERY THIN. If you try to put it on in one big coat you will fail. Several thin coats work best. Try to buy a can with the strange looking spray button that looks like a slit. That gives more of a high thin "fan" shaped pattern which makes it easier to lap 50% or so which gives you nice even coverage. To get one to work right shake the can for a full 2 minutes. Sounds stupid but believe me it's what you need to do rather than the 20 or 30 quick shakes you have been doing all your life. When you are done flip it over and spray it till the spray is clear. Those two principals I got from a customer service rep on another board who set out to find out why so many cans got returned. I wish I had red that 20 years ago.

 

[jabush]

I just brush painted my stove yesterday. I used Rutland Flat Black 1200 degree stove paint from Ace.
I lightly sanded the whole stove, wiped it down with a damp rag and used a 1.5" brush (because that's what I had) to lay on a nice even coat. It turned out great!! The stove looks brand new.
I waited a couple hours for the paint to dry, opened some windows and then fired it up. We had some fumes that were cleared with a fan in the window. Plan on having the windows open for a few hours while the paint cures.
Stove is burning right now and there's a little odor, but I don't think it's too bad.
I was leary of using a brush, but the paint leveled nicely and left no (brush) marks. And from reading some of the previous posts, I'm glad I didn't hump that thing outside and spray it.

I have an Englander 30 that I am repainting where there was some minor rust. I was lucky to get the manpower to get it in my basement and would rather not hassle my friends to help me move it outside to paint and then move it back. I don't have a respirator so spray painting it in my basement is out of the question and I would rather not use stove blacking.

I see that there is a brush-on high temp paint. If anyone has used it and can recommend any tips, brush size and brush type or any other advice I would appreciate the counsel. Thanks.