Burning cardboard tubes

[Jags]

Sweet shop Dude!

Again, I am not a code Nazi, but I think your exterior run of single wall is too close to the fascia board. There are better, more knowledgeable people than I am that can address that. And we have already touched on the galv. piping ;-P .

Keep 'er clean, and keep 'er safe.

 

[Jags]

Does the section going thru the wall angle downward as it goes outside, or is that an illusion from the pics?

 

[oilstinks]

Yes it does angle down slightly. I am working on a heatshield to go between the pipe and facia which will make it to code.

 

[oilstinks]

Whats the deal i cant see my pics on my computer at work. Does anyone else not see them?

 

[thechimneysweep]

Oilstinks, if you can't afford to install insulated chimney and conform with all the other safety codes that relate to this installation, you can't afford to heat this shop with wood. After a lifetime in the business, your photos and comments made me physically cringe. Here's just a few points:

A: Creosote condenses out of wood smoke as it cools: that's one big reason manufactured chimney is insulated. Your single-wall chimney will be an incredibly effective creosote manufacturing device. I'm not talking over time here, I would anticipate a visible layer of creosote forming after EACH FIRE, particularly in colder weather.

B: You're not going to be able to devise a proper shield where the single-wall passes by the eave. Clearance to single-wall is 18", or 9" if properly shielded.

C: The horizontal run needs to slope slightly upward, not downward. It is already long enough to interfere with proper draft: sloping it downward is adding insult to injury.

D: Because of A, burning cardboard tubes will be a tremendously bad idea: you're going to be in constant danger of having a chimney fire, and the tall flames and extra-hot exhaust from the cardboard tubes will only make that situation worse.

E: When you do have your first chimney fire, which I feel is inevitable unless you sweep at least weekly, it will most likely set fire to your shop, due to situation B.

F: When that happens, your insurance adjuster is going to take one glance at all of these code violations and simply walk away. Actually, he won't have to walk: this installation provides loopholes in your fire insurance policy big enough to drive a truck through.

 

[oilstinks]

Dude i called the building inspector and thats what HE told me to do. I called the insurance office and was told to call the building inspector so there you go. What code violations. It is to code. Draft is no problem. It would suck a golf ball through a garden hose. I understand the eve but the inspector told me just to put a heat shield. Do i need to buy all isulated or buildit out of block?

 

[oilstinks]

Alright. I joined the site for info and help. I apparently screwed up no matter what my build. inspect. says. Lets work on remedying the situation. How do i Support the weight of that much insulated? Do i need to use the same isulated as going through the wall. I need a bottom clean out. I really cant get on the roof. Where do i get a chimney cap? Lowes and home depot are my major suppliers. Come on guys help! I will replace it. Do i just need an isulated elbow or T comming off of the isulated through the wall?

 

[Jags]

(Tom - thanks, I thought I was a one man band here).

Oilstinks - Pook actually has the right idea. Your best bet would be to eliminate that outside run. You can simply (of course nothing is simply) come out the back of your stove, and go straight up, through the roof. No horizontal runs, No outside (as BeGreen would say, "EVIL") chimney, no fascia boards to deal with, just one through the roof adapter. You could still have your "T" at the bottom of the run for EASY cleanout. Oh, and use double wall if at all possible. It is a natural tendency to want to "pull" that extra heat off of the stack, but ya gotta have a high enough stack temp to keep all the little nasties from wanting to "stick around".

Really, when it comes to code and install, there are better, more qualified people than me here to speak up.

 

[oilstinks]

The problem is that the guy thet put my trusses up put them too close together at theback of the garage. Not alot of clearence roo if go between truss. Where do i get a through the roof kit. My local heating company built this setup i currently have for me. They said nothing about the singl wall or galvinized on the inside. thanx guys.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

You can cut out trusses and then double the ones on either side of the opening, and connect the cut ones to a doubled up 2x8 nailed cross-wise. Hard to explain, but common in making roof openings (Think about the space needed for a skylight, or a central chimney in a house). Watch clearance, etc. May want to consult with a local builder to make this easy- shouldn't be a huge amount of effort.

I had to put a roof over my kiln and the chimney is 23" x 23"- goes right through. My brother the architect designed it, and I did it myself (if I can do it, then a blind syphilitic monkey could do it)

-pH- often compared to a syphilitic monkey

 

[Jags]

The problem is that the guy thet put my trusses up put them too close together at theback of the garage. Not alot of clearence roo if go between truss. Where do i get a through the roof kit. My local heating company built this setup i currently have for me. They said nothing about the singl wall or galvinized on the inside. thanx guys.

Now yer gettin' to specifics that I don't know. Others here do. I will say this: unless your trusses are closer than 16" OC there are box off kits to handle the pipe run, also, there are a few MFG's that make the thru the roof kits. Time to talk to a stove shop, or other outlet (some box stores handle this stuff also). Tom (chimney sweep) would be a great guy to work with also. There are several dealers on this site. You may wish to start a new thread and catch their attention. Truthfully, a thread topic of "burning cardboard tubes" probably made them all run the other way :coolsmirk: .

Edit: If it helps at all.....Yer on the right track now, my friend.

 

[thechimneysweep]

All the parts you'll need are available at hearth product shops, hardware stores and home improvement centers everywhere: you're looking for Type HT All-Fuel chimney. Popular brand names include:

Selkirk Metalbestos
Duravent Duratec
Security
Excel

You can find an overview of the chimney installation process online at http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hochim.htm. If you opt to go straight up (recommended, and much less expensive), you should look at the sketch on the right, due to the plywood sheeting you have. From your photos, it looks like you'll need to locate the chimney in the second bay from the backwall, and move the stove forward a bit or offset the connector pipe to reach the current location. Click the link at the bottom of the page for a step-by-step view of the installation.

If you decide to stick with a tee configuration, the weight of the chimney will be supported by the tee support and wall band shown in the middle sketch. The support is designed to hold the chimney 2" from the wall, which is minimum clearance for insulated pipe. It doesn't look like your eave sticks out far enough to accomodate a standard flashing; if that's the case, you can notch the eave to provide 2" clearance around the chimney where it passes through. Our installers trim the cutout with sheet metal, which can be painted if you want.

 

[oilstinks]

alrigh heres what i can do. I can run up through the trusses and upper floor with insulated at the trusses. The min 2" clearance should be no trouble. Then single wall to the tin roof. The tin is open underneath u can see it from the storge room on top then a through the roof kit at the tin? Or just keep truckin with the insulated threough the tin. We dont have chimney sweeps around here. My local heating place helped me with the current setup. Will my tin roof support a kit? It is just lathing strips 2Ft apart on trusses then tin screwed to strips. Be glad to post mor pics if needed. Would an air insulated system work outside. Is it cheeper than mat insulated? Cause now i have a huge hole in the wall and that T-111 siding is put on with ring shank nails which translates to a female dog to get off.

 

[begreen]

The tin roof doesn't support the pipe, that's the job of the support box.

Just process thinking here, but what about moving the stove to the wall to the left of the stove? It would need to be rotated 90 degrees. But then you can put in a ceiling support box for class A pipe between the floor joists, go up about 4 feet and be straight out the tin roof? The support box can hang below the loft floor joists. That would allow single wall to be connected at that point You will stay class A all the way up from the support box and all of the exterior pipe. On the interior you can run single wall up to the support box as long as clearances are honored.

For a visual picture, download this installation manual from Simpson:
http://www.duravent.com/?page=ts.php (look for DuraTech 5 - 8")

As for the old hole in the wall, maybe install a window or a porthole?

 

[Beanscoot]

I used to burn those super heavy cardboard tubes when we'd get them at work. They must have been close to a half inch thick and were rather hard to start. I would just keep the fire going with them when I was in the living room for the evening, I wouldn't stuff the stove full of them as they might get too hot, or too smoky if damped right down.

Their biggest drawback was the huge amount of ash produced. But free heat is free heat, and the ash is valuable soil builder in the compost.

Also, regarding the menace of burning wax: recently I attended an oil seminar for my job which was presented by the Imperial Oil Company. The rep. said that they sell a huge amount of wax to manufacturers of those artificial firelogs. It helps hold the sawdust together. Tip: Get a waxed cardboard box from the grocery store and cut it into 4 x 4 inch squares (it's easier to cut than regular cardboard), and use a couple of these to help start your fire.