Calculating Firebox Volume

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BrotherBart

Modesterator
Staff member
Every once in a while a discussion comes along about firebox volume advertised for stoves. With various comments about manufacturers misrepresenting the volume in their stoves. Well folks, the fact is the manufacturer does not set the rules. The EPA does and EPA Method 28, the rule book for cert. testing wood stoves, tells ya exactly how to measure it the same way the test labs do.

Here in all of their glory and simplicity are the measurement rules. Run right down to the stove store and go to measuring the stoves. Well, until the store owner calls the cops. :lol:

3.4 Firebox means the chamber in the wood heater in
which the test fuel charge is placed and combusted.

3.5 Height means the vertical distance extending
above the loading door, if fuel could reasonably occupy that
space, but not more than 2 inches above the top (peak
height) of the loading door, to the floor of the firebox
(i.e., below a permanent grate) if the grate allows a 1-inch
diameter piece of wood to pass through the grate, or, if
not, to the top of the grate. Firebox height is not
necessarily uniform but must account for variations caused
by internal baffles, air channels, or other permanent
obstructions.

3.6 Length means the longest horizontal fire chamber
dimension that is parallel to a wall of the chamber.

3.16 Width means the shortest horizontal fire chamber
dimension that is parallel to a wall of the chamber.


8.7.1 Determine the firebox volume using the
definitions for height, width, and length in Section 3.
Volume adjustments due to presence of firebrick and other
permanent fixtures may be necessary. Adjust width and
length dimensions to extend to the metal wall of the wood
heater above the firebrick or permanent obstruction if the
firebrick or obstruction extending the length of the side(s)
or back wall extends less than one-third of the usable
firebox height. Use the width or length dimensions inside
the firebrick if the firebrick extends more than one-third
of the usable firebox height. If a log retainer or grate is
a permanent fixture and the manufacturer recommends that no
fuel be placed outside the retainer, the area outside of the
retainer is excluded from the firebox volume calculations.

8.7.2 In general, exclude the area above the ash lip
if that area is less than 10 percent of the usable firebox
volume. Otherwise, take into account consumer loading
practices. For instance, if fuel is to be loaded
front-to-back, an ash lip may be considered usable firebox
volume.

8.7.3 Include areas adjacent to and above a baffle
(up to two inches above the fuel loading opening) if four
inches or more horizontal space exist between the edge of
the baffle and a vertical obstruction (e.g., sidewalls or
air channels).
 
Leave it to the EPA to make it complicated.
facepalm.jpg
 
Of course they have to try to define it, and of course it sounds nearly impossibly complicated when they try to put it in writing. That's a glimpse into a part of the world of engineering, standards, and trying to level the playing field by getting everyone to use the same rules and terminology. That passage from the EPA was never meant to be "user-friendly" to the buyer of a woodstove. Folks like Mike Holton are the ones who have to decode that verbiage. Frankly, I couldn't care less whether the chamber in which my fuel charge is placed and combusted is 3.1 ft³ or 3.2 ft³. I have a "big" stove in the house, and a "little" stove in the shop, and they both do what I want them to do. That's all I need to know. Works for me. Rick
 
Yep..small,med.large works..lol.
 
I just look at the width and depth with a tape screw the tag I decided a couple stoves ago! Most of my wood is 16" to 18" if it fits I am the happiest wood burner alive. I do understand the reason for the rules and they actually do help improve stoves ( the longer burn times). When I was a kid we had a monster of a stove it held an enormous amount of wood by current standards and stunk the hole town up when it was in use but ran out of fuel really fast. Thank goodness those days are over!

Merry Christmas
Pete
 
It still bugs the crap out of me. I want real world numbers for comparison purposes when I go stove shopping. That's what's good about this site. Lots of real world info.
 
Todd said:
It still bugs the crap out of me. I want real world numbers for comparison purposes when I go stove shopping. That's what's good about this site. Lots of real world info.

Just gotta take a tape measure and calculator with you. And to complicate it further the space is not always user friendly. Some stove are wider than they are deep or tall and are a pain to load.
 
I have 4.32..so they say. dunno..all I know is that it takes the better part of two armloads to fill this thing.
 
I have a tape with me most of the time, so I measure. Then, I calculate. Then, I compare.
If I use the manufacturer number, the stove is WAYYYY oversized for my house, but if I use real USABLE measurements and compare to what I have in the house, it's much closer to what I need. Bingo, Boingo, Bango.
It's all a conspiracy. :cheese:
 
And to think we used to consider LxWxH=Volume was accurate :p

What were we thinking!

pen
 
pen said:
And to think we used to consider LxWxH=Volume was accurate :p

What were we thinking!

pen

:lol: Don't worry must of us still do! When I was looking at switching stoves I didn't care about any length deeper than 18" since I'll never cut my wood longer than that. It takes long enough to season my oak, no way I'm cutting it to 20" or 22" to fill the stove. If it was 22x20x12 I would use 18x20x12 in my math. That takes a 3 cubic foot stove down to 2.5.
 
rdust said:
pen said:
And to think we used to consider LxWxH=Volume was accurate :p

What were we thinking!

pen

:lol: Don't worry must of us still do! When I was looking at switching stoves I didn't care about any length deeper than 18" since I'll never cut my wood longer than that. It takes long enough to season my oak, no way I'm cutting it to 20" or 22" to fill the stove. If it was 22x20x12 I would use 18x20x12 in my math. That takes a 3 cubic foot stove down to 2.5.
Interesting conclusion!
I make better use of my area by loading n/s..cause w/e is pretty wide.
 
I load it, it burns, I am warm. Life is too short to ponder such things LOL.
 
I simply classify them according to the following scale:

1-Too little
2-Getting Closer
3- A whole s---load of wood to fill

I chose number 3- seems to be working so far!
 
Goldi locks said it all.....
This one is too small
This one is too big
This one is just right
 
I'm more interested in getting a stove big enough BTU wise and that can accept a decent log length. Overall volume would be nice for comparison, but I'm not sure it is the end all # for comparison. I know there are people out there burning up in the 700 + degree range. I would never do that with a Hearthstone. So, if I had the same firebox, but you operate 200 degrees hotter, you're getting more heat than me. Cat vs. non-cat, cast vs steel, stone or not stoner, these are more important considerations. Once you have that narrowed down on what you want, then that volume can help you decide a little easier between the same type.
 
To open presents. I opened this sucker. I can close it. :cheese:

Merry Christmas to all.
 
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