i'm wondering if anyone knows what i need to emulate my combustion blower? the motor tag shows 110v/60hz/1A at 3000 rpms. i would like to control my blower motor manually. i just need to show the electrical load to trick my control board into thinking the motor is still attached. any help would be appreciated.
calling all electricians.....
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speedoboy31 said:
From what I understand some combustion motors are controlled by varying the voltage or the hertz (cycles) so be warned.
I`m gonna connect two test leads off the motor terminals just to check this out next spring when I pull it out of position and clean it.
LI-Mini-Owner
Member
speedoboy31 said:
Hi Speed - could you provide a little more details about what you are trying to accomplish? It sounds like you want to disconnect the blower from the controls, and control it with some type of external speed control. Is your problem that with the blower disconnected that none of the other stove functions are working (auger etc)?
120 watt light bulb. A X V = W 1.00 X 120V = 120W ( most residential systems are between 117-125V)
But I would not recommend messing with the combustion motor.
But I would not recommend messing with the combustion motor.
Gio said:
with the Harman's, you are correct, Gio........although I wouldnt reccommend it either....
yes, li-mini, that is exactly what i'm trying to do----- run the fan manually with a dimmer so i can give the flame a little more or less air than the pre-determined speed. this should provide me with a way to adjust according to pellet variations. an example would be running the stove on5 heat range and maybe giving it the air equivalent of 6 or 7. i actually like the lightbulb idea, or maybe a small room fan(i'll check the specs first). if i need to use this electricity, why not benefit from it. i really don't need a light bulb glowing 24/7. but a small room fan might just be the ticket. by the way, i'm playing with a 25 pdvc.
speedoboy31 said:
If you aren`t overly concerned about warranty issues or the possibility of creating control board problems you might try disconnecting the two leads on the combustion motor and tape them off. Run a separate 120 volt supply to the motor controlled by a simple motor speed switch ($10). Offhand, I can`t see any harm being done ,so it might be worth it to give it a try .
the only problem with disconnecting them is that the control board doesn't see a load and kicks E-1 and shuts down the stove. when i tried it, the stove was running. maybe it'll stay running if i go from start up mode???? i'll try that later.
LI-Mini-Owner
Member
Don't know what the E1 code is for your stove, but the reason it shuts down with blower disconnected could be that the no blower-no vacuum=vacume switch opening up.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
The stove lost vacuum when you dumped the blower with the stove running. That is as it should be. It didn't shut down because the load disappeared.
There are several folks on here that have modified their stoves to provide independent control of the blowers.
There are several folks on here that have modified their stoves to provide independent control of the blowers.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
the stove is dropping an e-1 code due to the flue blockage switch opening from lack of vacuum pressure created by that blower , you would need to bypass this switch to test the system. under no circumstances should you attempt to operate the stove with this switch disabled as major damage can be caused should the stove be operated in this manner, for a "no fire" test it would probably be ok, but dont burn the stove in this manner
OK, I just performed the test with my 25 PDVC just out of curiosity.
I disconnected the leads to the combustion motor and set them aside. I connected a separate 120v supply to it with a speed control in line.
The stove started and ran just fine with the speed set on full. When the stove heat was up to temp I slowed down the combustion motor and immediately saw the flame go lazy and turn orange. Turned up the speed and it was back to an active yellow flame.
Conclusion is: Don`t screw with it! Englander stove engineering knew what they were doing. You aren`t gonna improve on it.
And it appears that you ain`t gonna get the fan to go any faster either, if that`s what you are trying to accomplish.
I disconnected the leads to the combustion motor and set them aside. I connected a separate 120v supply to it with a speed control in line.
The stove started and ran just fine with the speed set on full. When the stove heat was up to temp I slowed down the combustion motor and immediately saw the flame go lazy and turn orange. Turned up the speed and it was back to an active yellow flame.
Conclusion is: Don`t screw with it! Englander stove engineering knew what they were doing. You aren`t gonna improve on it.
And it appears that you ain`t gonna get the fan to go any faster either, if that`s what you are trying to accomplish.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Gio said:
I don't know the starting sequence for your stove Gio, however it is not uncommon for a stove to exit startup in high feed and full draft. This then gets backed off. So it is possible that your adjustments were made at the wrong moment.
For example my stove cycles up through all five burn rates before going to the previous burn set point. If I were to turn down my draft in the highest mode the flame would go bad. Just saying.
SmokeyTheBear said:
The 25 PDVC start cycle is heat level 5 for 15-20 minutes and then reverts to whatever setting the user has it set for.
I don`t think the PDVC would even start (auto start) unless the comb fan was running at about 75% of it`s speed. I turned it down low during the start cycle (manual comb control attached) and the start up flame from the igniter went limp . It obviously needed more forced air . A tech did tell me that the stove`s comb motor runs minimally at 88% speed and that the remaining 12 % top end speed is automatically controlled from the board .
Seems logical to me from my experience.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
dobie daddy said:
You would only cook the shaded pole motor with a freq drive. Freq drives require invertor duty motors. Plus the freq drives are approx $500.00 give or take. Why bother at such an expense.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
He!! as far as faster goes if the motor can take it you use a step up transformer and over drive it. Not exactly being nice to the puppy but it will work (for a bit).
It might be a lot easier just to find another motor with a slightly higher rpm. Either blow out the fire or suck that flame right on out thru the exhaust.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
wouldnt improve much anyway , with the type of impellor in the system you are only going to gain a few cfm at best
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Well since Mike says we ain't likely to improve it much by playing with the motor and fan, hows about we just increase the percentage of O2 going in the OAK. That ought to spice the ole flame up a bit.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
sure ,why not just hook a nitrous bottle , :ahhh: just warn the neighbors first and have 911 on the speed dial
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Gee Mike, it took you long enough.
You mean we shouldn't feed the acetylene via the hopper and go a metal cuttin'? Damn you are one killjoy :bug: .
You mean we shouldn't feed the acetylene via the hopper and go a metal cuttin'? Damn you are one killjoy :bug: .
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