I cleaned my flue tonight, and I always have a tough time getting the pin for the baffle back in. This time I sorta put it in backwards so it isn't flush....It's bothering me, and I need to correct it tomorrow. Problem is, it seems as if the baffle goes up in the rear ever so sleightly and the holes don't line up...Is the baffle warped...I checked and its not sitting on debris or anything....help!
Calling all PE folks....and anybody who might be of help please.
- Thread starter James02
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Is the baffle sitting correctly & aligned with the tube that it sits in, in the back of the stove?
They can be a little difficult to get in even if the baffle is in correctly, if the baffle is not in correctly you will know it with out a doubt, it wont set right at all.Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
From the Vista manual :
"Baffle Removal
The baffle may be removed from the firebox to clean and
inspect the chimney liner.
DO NOT OPERATE WITH BAFFLE OR INSULATION
REMOVED.
Removal
Remove retaining pin at the back top of the fi rebox, just
under the baffle. Remove rail extensions in front of the baffl
e by turning and lifting out. Lift baffle up and pull forward
to disconnect from the supply tube. Tilt baffle sideways
to drop down and remove from firebox. Inspect gasket
between baffle and supply tube. If necessary, replace with
gasket #139.5 available from your Pacifi c Energy dealer.
Re-install baffle assembly by reversing order."
The supply tube is key, If the baffle isn't in correctly, the pin won't go in.
"Baffle Removal
The baffle may be removed from the firebox to clean and
inspect the chimney liner.
DO NOT OPERATE WITH BAFFLE OR INSULATION
REMOVED.
Removal
Remove retaining pin at the back top of the fi rebox, just
under the baffle. Remove rail extensions in front of the baffl
e by turning and lifting out. Lift baffle up and pull forward
to disconnect from the supply tube. Tilt baffle sideways
to drop down and remove from firebox. Inspect gasket
between baffle and supply tube. If necessary, replace with
gasket #139.5 available from your Pacifi c Energy dealer.
Re-install baffle assembly by reversing order."
The supply tube is key, If the baffle isn't in correctly, the pin won't go in.
It wont set right at all and you can tell its not down on the supply tube, it will be way off not just a little.
I'm bumping this up, but I still think it's a baffle install issue..
I had a rough time with the baffle & pin in the PE the first time we did it, and I know how hard it can be to install it.
I had a rough time with the baffle & pin in the PE the first time we did it, and I know how hard it can be to install it.
Well I just had mine out and it sets on a lip and if you dont get it in place it is whopper jawed pretty bad, my point is until I got it to drop down on the lip it was obvious it was not in place. I'm guessing but we are talking 1/8 inch vs at least 1/4 inch.
The pin and hole are not perfectly matched, Mine actually has two holes next to each other, good QC huh? When I put my Hog style gasket in, it is obviously thicker than the original gasket material. So the holes didn't line up, a pair of vice grips holding the pin and a little turning back & forth does the trick for me.
Does your stove have the 2 side rails that the baffle sits on? Mine are free-floating and if not set level the baffle will be off kilter. I had my baffle actually slip off the railing about a quarter inch on one side. You can try playing with those and see if it helps any. Just an idea...
stocker said:
Agree and/or the insulation is wedged between the baffle and rail --
raising the baffle. Or rails inverted/switch sides etc. The rails can be a pain to get in place properly and keep in place while maneuvering the baffle into place.If/when you remove the baffle to get a better look at the problem(s), take the time to shop vac out the rear air channel going to the baffle. And make yourself a hog gasket.
I am curious as to what noise you are hearing as well.
Take some pictures and post it in this thread
Did you plug the air supply tube before you cleaned the flue? It is important to cover the air supply tube to prevent ash from collecting in it during the sweep. What was the condition of the baffle gasket? Did you replace it?
You could also have flue ash etc. that built up around the air supply tube during the clean out. That could raise the baffle and not allow it to sit properly around the air supply tube. I would remove the baffle and take a brush and/or vacuum and clean around the air supply tube. Just make sure to carefully remove the baffle gasket first, if it is in good condition and you are planning to reuse it.
You could also have flue ash etc. that built up around the air supply tube during the clean out. That could raise the baffle and not allow it to sit properly around the air supply tube. I would remove the baffle and take a brush and/or vacuum and clean around the air supply tube. Just make sure to carefully remove the baffle gasket first, if it is in good condition and you are planning to reuse it.
- Status
Similar threads
