Thinking of adding a 6" catylitic combustor to my Drolet Lengend III Can I just drop one into my stove pipe exit?
Last edited:
Catylictic Combustor or No?
- Thread starter Queequeg From Rokovoko
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Why? Catylitic combustors burn at up to 500 F or more. The stove is rated for that. Is there any way else to add one?
The Legend III is a good, clean-burning stove. What would be the reason or goal for adding one at the flue outlet.
It burns way, way hot and I want to turn it down but I want to make maximum use of my wood. I have had this stove "run away" and lose control. If I can keep exit tempreture at 350-400 I could controll it and get max burn out of my gasses.
Adding a cat on the flue collar would not make the stove operate like a stove that was designed as a catalytic stove.
This may be due to a strong draft, or the way the stove is loaded or run. How tall is the flue system on the stove from stovetop to chimney cap?
Tell us about how the stove is loaded, size of the splits burned, species of wood.
Adding a cat on the flue collar would not make the stove operate like a stove that was designed as a catalytic stove.
Well It exits the basement, (exposed basement) and runs 2-3 feet to ground level and the another ten feet to over the eave and then maybe anonther six eight feet above that. Total of max 20 feet. Had a
OK, that's not excessive flue system height. Tell us about how the stove is loaded. What are the size of the splits burned? What species of wood is typically burned? How tightly packed is the firebox? Is it loaded N/S (logs parallel to the sides) or E/W (logs parallel to the back and front of the stove)?
Loaded N/S and about half way too the top . Wood is mostly red oak, hard maple, some yellow birch and iron wood ( Ostrya virginiana} anywhere from seven year dried to three year dried. Splts are any where from three to eight Inches. I keep the eights for the, Lionel Richei, " All nIght long" But that's not when it goes nut.
Well, you are doing the right thing but here are some tips to slow down the fire.
Burn thicker splits and use the small splits as fillers. A tightly packed fire has less air circulating around the wood which slows down the burn. Small splits burn faster due to the increased surface area of exposed wood in the firebox.
Load the wood E/W. This essentially creates a dam against the airflow feeding the fire.
Turn down the air sooner and more aggressively.
Burn thicker splits and use the small splits as fillers. A tightly packed fire has less air circulating around the wood which slows down the burn. Small splits burn faster due to the increased surface area of exposed wood in the firebox.
Load the wood E/W. This essentially creates a dam against the airflow feeding the fire.
Turn down the air sooner and more aggressively.
Thanks. Some other things I did was place a magnet over the air inlet hole. Even shut all the way down there is a 5/8 ths inch hole there. Minimum inlet. I cut it down to a bout 3/16 inch. Installed a damper and and ancillary fan. It came with a blower but I placed my Vornado fan undernieth the stove to scub more heat off when needed. I can enjoy the storve somewhat. Still, Just expected a little more design consideration from this stove. It's not a year old yet.
I do that. I wait till I can rake the coals and I sit in front of the open door. I call it my micro suana.
Yep. The Legend III is a good stove. Try burning large splits E/W with the next reload after raking the hot coals to the front. See how that works out.
Similar threads
