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Chain and bar oil suggestions and comments please...

Post in 'The Gear' started by WeldrDave, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. blacktail

    blacktail Minister of Fire

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    Bar oil is cheap, I don't go through that much, and it protects a more expensive piece of equipment, so it's not a place I choose to skimp in my budget. Lowe's carries large jugs of cheap bar oil and it lasts me a looooong time.

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  2. BobUrban

    BobUrban Minister of Fire

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    Not to highjack the thread and I am NOT a rep or network marketer or involved at all but... Amsoil is the real deal and their products are good, expensive, but good. An aquaintence of mine sells the stuff and he is into all things "easy money"!! You know the dude :(

    But I will say that anything amsoil I have ever tried in anything showed evidence of great results. I am not mechanic but when you go out to your car in below zerow weather and it starts up with a quick VROOM as if it was summer and does not go woop......wooop......woooop.......vroom to get going there is clearly oil moving - good stuff.

    Stuff may be voodoo medicine but when I see the temp guage running significantly lower after it is added/used there is something good going on in there.

    Truth is oil has come a LONG way and the competition is stiff so there are many great synthetics available, not just amsoil. I run synthetics in everything.

    I also use Motorkote in all my equipment because I believe in it and the inventer is from Charlotte Michigan. I have seen his tests and it shames any other "Super Lube" out there without doubt. My 250,000G 16yr old, hard used Tahoe is my personal proof so I poor a little in my saw, quad, splitter and any other gas/oil engines now and then. I like Seafoam too.

    I am a maintainence guy and just feel better if I have done the little stuff along the way. For me it is like my personal competition with the thermostat - I feel like I am winning if my engines last, run good and never see the repair shop. Run em like you stole em but maintain em like you paid retail!!
    charly likes this.
  3. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Feeling the Heat

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    I didn't want to start any conflicts, but this is good stuff!, I'm glad to get everyones opinion, good learning experiences. I found a couple options, "no more drain oil" from what I've read. I guess I don't cut enough, maybe 5 cords a year, to have done much damage. I do take the bar off and file the edges and flip it. I gotta say I have ate up some chains though, and I don't want to mess up my new saw! Thanks very much to all....

    Dave
  4. hrhunter

    hrhunter New Member

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    I have been using Poulan bar oil from Walmart with good results. It is about $10/gal.
  5. Paulywalnut

    Paulywalnut Minister of Fire

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    I like that thick oil also. It sticks on the chain and just seems to be doing something worthwhile.
  6. Scols

    Scols Burning Hunk

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    This thread is perfect timing. I have a Husky and have been using Husky bar oil exclusively. Yesterday while I was doing some bucking I ran out of bar oil, but the Husky dealer is 45 minutes away so I went to the local hardware store which deals with Stihl. The only bar oil in stock was Stihl Bio Plus which is vegetable oil based. Have any of you guys used this stuff? I havent opened it yet so I can either bring it back or give it to my dad since he has a Stihl if this stuff is no good for my saw.
  7. charly

    charly Guest

    I have used the amsoil bar oil as well,,, works great and seems to last.. Waste oil would also be diluted down with gas from cold starts as well,,, no thanks...20 dollars a year gets you a discount on all your amsoil products as well...I've ran their products for over 20 years in "Everything" I own,,, zero problems,,, 11 year old MS360 stihl still runs like new, over 100 cords, original carb parts, fuel lines and fuel filter...I'll take that over a break down...
  8. charly

    charly Guest

    I run sea Foam as well and agree with the Amsoil,,when it's below zero out,, and you can't plug something in,,, it still starts, plus your getting good film strength...I was a Harley Tech for 10 years for a dealer ,, went to Milwaukee for school , etc... The days of the 60 weight oil are over,,, it's simply all about film strength,,, the ability to maintain a film of oil between two metal parts.. That's why you are seeing lighter oils ran,, no need for the poor quality heavy stuff anymore, plus you get quick lubrication on start up... I met a guy who worked for the railroad, engine division,,, and also in the military in the turbine division...I mentioned I ran Amsoil in everything,,, he told me Amsoil is the only true 100% synthetic oil...the rest all have crude blends included.. I'll have to look at that Motorkote,,, Bob, same thing here,, no mechanical problems...proof is in the using...
  9. bigbarf48

    bigbarf48 Minister of Fire

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    I just ran out of bar oil and have been using canola oil for a few days
    Thistle likes this.
  10. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    AMSOIL isn't the only Group IV synthetic but your friend is correct in that most "synthetics" are simply highly refined petroleum products. (Group III oils) Group III oils aren't evil, in fact they can be quite good. But marketing would have you believe they're just as good as their Group IV counterparts.

    FWIW: AMSOIL sells both Group III (the OE and XL products) and Group IV (Signature Series and other formulations) products.
    charly likes this.
  11. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    I currently run it most of the time. Been using it for the last 3 years or so. It's not going to matter what brand of saw you pour it into, it's good oil. Pours better at low temps (than regular bar oil) too.
  12. charly

    charly Guest

    Thanks for the clarification,,,I've just always used their Series 3000 5w-30 diesel oil,, I run that one oil across the board in all my engines...best oil Amsoil makes...didn't want to have a bunch of different oils laying around....now if something needs oil I have it, usually buy it by the gallon or gallons,,, cheaper.
  13. jdp1152

    jdp1152 Minister of Fire

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    Not sure about saws, but I bought a Stihl weed eater at Ace and they extended the warranty if I bought a six pack of Stihl 50:1 mix. Not the same as bar oil obviously but an interesting push.
  14. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    They've been doing that on everything registered for homeowner use. Only thing that you can't get the warranty doubled on that way are the TS series demo saws and the big clearing saws (FS350+), items that are not marketed to homeowners.

    Those "old" series 3000 oils are one of few that still have the old anti-wear additive packages (higher levels of ZDDP) and that's a good thing. I keep Signature Series 5W30 and 0W30 around for the newer vehicles, and their 10W30 Small Engine oil which has that older additive spec that is very beneficial to engines that lack roller cam followers and the like. My old '89 454 gets that stuff.
  15. charly

    charly Guest

    I see they make some nice Z rod oil for muscle cars and flat tappet cam followers..high zinc content...I did get the small engine 10w -30 for my snow blower and generator.. Bet that Z rod oil would work well in mowers as well...sorry about side tracking the thread!
  16. KodiakII

    KodiakII Feeling the Heat

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    I figure I have a lot of money invested in saws and real estate. Why would you want to run garbage through one, and fling toxic waste all over the other? I have been running Stihl vegetable oil bar oil, thinned down with food grade synthetic when it gets really cold out.
    MasterMech and TreePointer like this.
  17. osagebow

    osagebow Minister of Fire

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    Well said. It was in the teens today while I was cutting, tried canola for the first time, worked great. Thanks Thistle and others who have suggested it in the past. Have about a pint of regular petrol based left, probably gonna stick with Canola or that Stihl version. How is the Stihl different than straight Canola?
    KodiakII likes this.
  18. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Feeling the Heat

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    Thistle, I swatted a "BIG" hornets nest on this, didn't I:eek:... I'll admit I'm by far a pro at this and am a small time wood cutter compared to some of the big dogs out there, thought I was doing the right thing..... :( but I see the error of my ways.
  19. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    Drain oil is a carcinogenic until it is cleaned and refined for re-use. Don't need that stuff spraying around while I work. I use a brand name chain/bar oil. Keep it inside so it stays warm during the winter. The saw keeps it warm while I'm working. At less than $20 a gallon it's not worth the risk to use something else...

    KaptJaq
    charly and TreePointer like this.
  20. JustWood

    JustWood Minister of Fire

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    So is sawdust.
  21. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    If I am working with wood I choose to be exposed to sawdust. Cancers related to sawdust are mostly related to the respiratory track, the risks are low and can easily be reduced with a dust mask.

    I do not need to be exposed to used engine oil, the cancers it causes are skin and surface related, the risk is higher and not easily mitigated. Since there are inexpensive alternatives that are probably better for the task I will use those.

    KaptJaq
  22. KodiakII

    KodiakII Feeling the Heat

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    Don't know for certain, never tried straight Canola...worth a try though.
  23. jdp1152

    jdp1152 Minister of Fire

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    Pump your breaks before spreading what equates to a forwarded email. Yes, in excessive exposure, it can cause cancer in some mice. While the human genome does share significant homology with mice, it's an awful indicator of reality. Every single drug that ever makes it to a clinical trial was effective against a rodent species yet somehow considerably less than 1% of all drugs discovered make it to approval. Some are toxic to humans but not mice. Some work in mice but have no effect on humans. So it seems that the shared homology isn't enough of a real indicator. The paws up test is nothing more than a hurdle with far greater hurdles to become 'truth'. People have been turning wrenches on automobiles since the model T came out. Plenty of time for significant trends to reveal themselves.....yet they haven't, at least none with used motor oil and human use. But hey, lets throw copious amounts of used motor oil on a hairless mouse and let the world believe that oil changing is hazardous to ones health. I'm not saying it doesn't cause cancer in humans, but based on studies, the reality is its no where near proven. I'm not trying to pick on you personally. I looked into this as a request of a family member because the better part of my life was spent in oncology and my wife is still in the field. You've probably got a better chance of getting cancer from red food coloring than used motor oil from a burden of proof standpoint. Enjoy your raspberry breakfast bar!

    Edit: Just adding that 2008 was the last year I actually looked into this for an uncle that spent his life in the industry and was diagnosed with an indolent leukemia.
    charly and WeldrDave like this.
  24. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    I guess I should have used the phrase "Is considered by some sources to be a ..." in my original post.
    Sorry but that e-mail came from some, in my opinion, pretty good sources. I rather err on the side of caution. Bar oil is cheap and keeps my warranty in effect. Anybody that wants to spread used oil on their property or their heating fuel, please feel free to do so.

    KaptJaq
  25. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Feeling the Heat

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    Hello all, I'm listening and liking everyones point of view, this is very good stuff, and very important. I'll take the hit for being inconsiderate to mother nature:( and rightfully so for using used motor oil and will change what Ive been doing. I'm very earth conscience, especially around the water! I cannot stand :mad: people who trash our waterways,. With that said, I cut maybe 5 to 6 cords a year. I started out with Stihl oil as per manual in my old 021, the dealer when I bought it said, "the sthil" bar oil is just 30w so you can get your self some motor oil and save some $. Now from what I'm reading, things and additives have changed and bar oil is more eco friendly. I'm also reading on various other sites, more and more about canola oil. In the past 20 years, I have "maybe" went through 4 gals of oil. I got a new saw, MS250 and wanted to see what everyones using, for now I'll use Stihl bar oil for the warranty. Whats ironic is I here people talk about various oils and how they act, in today's world most of the drain oil you get "is" synthetic. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has done this, There are very respectable people on this forum and I listen to all, I have been to other sites and it just seems like all the do is argue, and who has "BIGGER B@##s". Anyway, to agree with jpd1152 eating enough lettuce will give you cancer, some of you remember when they pumped a lab rat with the equelvilant 50lbs of saccaran a day, the poor thing got cancer. "well of course" he did! And for what is worth because I have "studied this extensively" the earth pukes barrels and barrels of oil to the surface from the ocean and land naturally and daily. Our first refineries were in Pennsylvania and found that way.
    "NOW" i'm not saying lets add to it! that is wrong and irresponsible. With that said, I'm liking all this and especially finding a cleaner and "possibly cheaper" way of doing this, in turn want to keep my saw and chain in the best condition I can.
    Again this is all good and we all can learn something out of everyones opinion!:cool:

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