Chimney installation

[NewB]

I need to install (or have installed) a new chimney for a woodstove. I would like to run it straight up through the roof, but it would need to run through a closet upstairs before it reached the roof. Can I use standard metalbestos through the closet? There would not be much clearance to wallboard once I enclose the pipe, so what else should I do to ensure that this is a safe installation? Detailed responses would be greatly appreciated!

By the way, I did go to a very helpful local dealer to have them do the install, but I found out that they would not be able to do this installation this year because this is a little more labor intensive and they are already swamped with work. Oil prices are scaring me, so I would really love to have this in before winter.

 

[begreen]

You can use Metalbestos - Class A - pipe through the closet. As long as you have 2" clearance from combustibles all the way up an out the roof, you are ok. You'll need a firestop between floors and before enclosing. Be sure to vacuum out any sawdust or wood shavings. For installation instructions visit: http://www.selkirkcorp.com/SuperVent/Product.aspx?id=220 and on the right side select "Installation" - Supervent USA.

 

[NewB]

Thank you - I appreciate your help!

 

[fraxinus]

Before commiting to a metal chimney, it might be worthwhile to compare the cost of a masonry chimney. You can save quite a bit on material and labor costs by using concrete lifts where they don't show and brick where visible in the house and from the roof line up. With the slowdown in construction I would think many masons are actively looking for work.

 

[NewB]

Interesting - I figured that adding a masonry chimney would cost significantly more than the metal pipe.

Do you have any idea how much space the masonry option would take up going through the upstairs closet? I would rather not lose the whole closet to a chimney, unless of course there was some other clear advantages (financial, efficiency, etc.).

 

[JPapiPE]

I considered a masonry chimney before going with a class A Metal chimney, but the cost of the labor was much more than i spent for my whole metal chimney system. A chimney must be supported by a footing which is or should be 1 ft thick and twice the area of the chimney block sitting on it, ( a 12"X12" chimney needs aa 2' x 2'x1' deep footing) and this footing has to be below the frost line in your area; 4-5 feet in the new england area and some 6' in alaska. You will have to excavate that hole either by manual shoveling or getting a small backhoe in there. If you do not get below the frost line the whole structure...footing and all will heave and crack your masonry joints making for a dangerous situaution. If you have a friend with a backhoe and can get the hole dug great. Concrete is still relatively cheap, then you are stuck with a concrete chimney. Bare, gray and ugly. The chimney will have to 2" away from the dwelling and held fast with metal fasteners to the house. If you wish to finish it off, bricks are about 35-60 cents each. You'll also need a clay flue liner, chimney cap and clean out. Then you have your chimney, a cold outside creosote collector. I got a price for a 16' foot outside chimney, it was $1500 for labor plus materials. This did not include any brick facing. So i went with the metal chimney instead.

 

[JPapiPE]

Dear glowball, you look a little different these days. Did you lose some weight or have your hair done? I can't quite put a finger on it, but something is different.

I have a friend that wants to put a woodstove in his fireplace. The fireplace is brick but the chimney is hugh blue stone. he was advised by a chimney specialist that the fireplace flue is 12"X12" and way too big for his woodstove. So he has elected to have a 6" stainless steel liner inserted into his chimney at a cost of $900. He claims he was told it is now code.

Years ago I had the same problem, a double brick lined chimney with a 12"X12" inside opening. I did hook up my Jotul #4 combie to this chimney and burnt wood for seven years. I did clean the chimney once a year with a metal brush and there was never much creosote to be cleaned. I did have to install an extra damper to control the burn rate as I had the best draft in town.

 

[wellbuilt home]

Oh yea a block chimney is cheep to buy and i could do one in a day with Two labors but It would cost around 500 in mat 800 labor 200 fuel 600 profit & over head and thats cheep It would take a hole day moving the stuff two & from the job . Steel would be way cheaper .