Chimney Liner Advice
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A 35' 6" liner is gonna draft like a vacuum cleaner. I have a 30+ foot 5 1/2" inch liner in the exterior chimney for my basement stove and have to use a key damper to slow that sucker down. I joke about it sucking splits up the chimney. I can kick off burns in that stove on a 90 degree say with a ton of draft. Did exactly that to smoke check the liner when I installed it a few years ago in August.
btuser
Minister of Fire
35' is a long liner. I'm betting a 6" would be good enough, but for a difference of $80 its a toss-up. My thought would be would I ever need an appliance that would require a larger than 6" flue size, because I wouldn't want to replace it.
ewdudley
Minister of Fire
Selkirk has kindly provided the straight dope on this topic. Go to
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=210
and pull up the "Chimney & Venting Sizing Handbook" from the Resources 'View Documents' javascript menu.
Go to Section 11 and set up a spreadsheet to work with the 'The Chimney Design Equation'. They have a cascading chart set up for doing the same thing, but I'd say a spreadsheet is a lot nicer for adjusting the individual factors to see what effect they have and to see how much trouble you might be in if you've estimated a factor incorrectly.
The critical factors are having a good 'k' or flow resistance estimate according to the tee, elbows, and piping length involved; and knowing what what the manufacturer specifies as the amount of draft the appliance should see at its outlet, which can vary a lot.
Cheers --ewd
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=210
and pull up the "Chimney & Venting Sizing Handbook" from the Resources 'View Documents' javascript menu.
Go to Section 11 and set up a spreadsheet to work with the 'The Chimney Design Equation'. They have a cascading chart set up for doing the same thing, but I'd say a spreadsheet is a lot nicer for adjusting the individual factors to see what effect they have and to see how much trouble you might be in if you've estimated a factor incorrectly.
The critical factors are having a good 'k' or flow resistance estimate according to the tee, elbows, and piping length involved; and knowing what what the manufacturer specifies as the amount of draft the appliance should see at its outlet, which can vary a lot.
Cheers --ewd
Fred61
Minister of Fire
oldspark said:
In my early retirement, I did some "handyman work" for several people. What I did when installing a liner which had a slight bend in the flue was: Find a tin can that just slipped over the end of the liner and attach it securely, attach a sash cord to the center of the can and drop it down the flue so that someone below can "steer" it down. Worked great!
Quick update ;a Flex King 7" chimney liner with deluxe cleanout cap and insulation kit will be on order later this week.
As I am planning the inside smoke pipe I have a few questions. To mantain the clearance for the horizontal run, I will be using Simpson double wall, stove pipe.
It is my understanding that a snap adaptor is used to connect the snout to the double wall.
I will be using a T on the rear exhaust of the furnace and then another T on top of that to mount the barometric damper in, then an adjustable length section into a 90* then the horizontal run to hit the snout through the wall and into the chimney liner.
Are there any flaws in my initial designs?
For the Ts and vertical section, can I use single wall into an adaptor and then only use double for the section where clearances will be tight?
Thanks for the input.
As I am planning the inside smoke pipe I have a few questions. To mantain the clearance for the horizontal run, I will be using Simpson double wall, stove pipe.
It is my understanding that a snap adaptor is used to connect the snout to the double wall.
I will be using a T on the rear exhaust of the furnace and then another T on top of that to mount the barometric damper in, then an adjustable length section into a 90* then the horizontal run to hit the snout through the wall and into the chimney liner.
Are there any flaws in my initial designs?
For the Ts and vertical section, can I use single wall into an adaptor and then only use double for the section where clearances will be tight?
Thanks for the input.
btuser
Minister of Fire
On my boiler install I used two tees and two snouts. The liner extends past the first tee to a clean-out tee on the bottom. I figured this way if something like a bird (it would take something the size of a turkey!) or whatever were to fall into the chimney it won't block the flue.
Don't laugh. I know two people who have had their chimneys blocked by ducks. Yes, the proverbial dead ducks!
btuser
Minister of Fire
The duck would have to rip the cap off first. The wood stove I could see, because there's enough room for a bird to fall into it but the boiler's cap is 1" mesh. I figured if I ever converted it to a wood burner and direct vented the boiler I'd be all set. I'd luv a little stove in the man room.
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