Chimney Removal for new englander 17-VL install

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tkshrout

New Member
Sep 16, 2015
7
Ashville Ny
Hi Everyone,

New to posting here- have read a lot of stuff though, and couldn't find any help for this.

I'm in the process of breaking down an older "peninsula" style fireplace. I've removed the brick facade and framing and all I have left is the old unit with the chimney attached. From what I know, the chimney is a newer install, and I'd like to reuse it connected to my just-arrived 17-VL.

The problem I'm having is that I can't seem to get the pipe to disconnect. There are only 2 sections from the top of the unit through the roof. I can't see any screws, so I'm assuming it's twist lock. I've cranked on it as good as I feel I can without damaging the pipe in either direction (from bottom and roof) with no luck. I have tried removing storm collar or flashing. I took some pictures as I'm hoping someone may be able to help me through this. I think I should be taking it out from the roof? I took the cap off and there is literally no soot in this chimney (shiny clean)...

Anyways, thanks for any help you can provide. I have a service scheduled to hook up the new stove, but I'm trying to save by taking this out and building my own hearth.

Tim
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nope cant use that for a wood stove it is not rated for high enough temp
 
Plan on a complete tear-out including the chimney.
 
It does not look unsafe but that type of chimney is only for fireplaces and rated up to 1700 F. For a woodstove you need a high temp (HT) chimney rated to 2100 F.
 
I have the same situation going on in my house. Ripping out a chimney just like that to replace with Class A pipe. No screws or twist lock holding mine together and for the life of me I cant get it out. Ill be watching this thread as Im hoping to avoid the sawzall
 
Having done this more than once it doesn't look like too big of a deal to remove that old pipe and replace with class A. Cut the old pipe out with a sawzall if you have to. But it should come apart/ twist apart somehow. Your current flashing is not installed properly anyway. The shingles go all the way around the bottom. The bottom of the flashing should be resting on top of the shingles..
 
Still looking for help with taking it apart as well.
Get a small flat head screwdriver in the joint and it will pop apart they can be a pain
 
Have you made any progress with your install? I will be doing the final stages of removing my ZC this weekend and install my new triple wall pipe. Im interested to see what you do with the roof flashing. Ive installed flashing before but only on new installs. Im not looking forward to ripping out the old ZC pipe flashing and installing the new pipe. Would like to see what you did in this area
 
snap lock pipe,
you need to bend out the flap, to push in the tabs...

maybe i'm wrong though:
Majestic Tech customer service: 800-867-0454
these guys Should know how...
 
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