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Chimney rip out?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Joey J, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    O.K. I have a newer Heatilator fireplace with a 25 foot air cooled metal chimney in a wood exterior chase. I'm thinking about maybe tearing it out. The chimney is fully enclosed with no access from the house or attic. What's the best way to accomplish this? I would most likely remove the fireplace from the back because I have stone in front but how does the chimney come out? I'm not sure how it's supported but it looks like the weight of it is on top of the unit. Do I try to pull it out the top or do I push out the fireplace and try to deal with the pipe if it falls down? How about the re-install. How do I get the chimney back up the chase without tearing apart the chase? Thoughts?

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  2. NortheastAl

    NortheastAl Minister of Fire

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    This may be the time to get a professional involved. It sounds like a complicated task for the homeowner.
    Trickle, corey21 and ScotO like this.
  3. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    Joey it sounds to me like you are going to have to tear off the back (or side) of that chase. You can be fairly certain that the chimney pipe is attached to the wall in determined intervals via wall bands.....the only way to get them is by taking the sheeting off of either the back or one of the sides of the chase. Are you planning on installing Class A in there? If so, you are going to have to band that every 8' to the wall of the house, so you'll need to access the inside of that entire chase anyway.......

    If you aren't up to the task, I'd consider what Al said above and consult a pro.......
    corey21 and NortheastAl like this.
  4. southbalto

    southbalto Feeling the Heat

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    I did this a few years ago. I got the fireplace and triple wall air cooled chimney out without much trouble. After the fireplace was out I was left with the chimney which was only supported by strapping material at the base. I bear hugged the bottom of the 22' metal chimney and cut the strap. I lowered it to the floor and began separating the 4' lengths. They separated easily.

    I installed the class a base then began assembeling the chimney. It was heavy, but I managed to assemble at the bottom of the chase and push the lengths up the chase opening one by one. Support at the top and every 8' below. Install the firestops and I was all set.
  5. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    How did you get the straps back on (at 8' intervals)? just curious.
  6. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    Yes. That's a good question? Another I have is did you do this alone? Also, how did you go up and down the chase when removing the outer skin of the chase? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to bite off more than I can handle_g
  7. southbalto

    southbalto Feeling the Heat

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    Your're going to need at least one other pair of hand. I opened up the drywall/framing on the interior and was able to get a latter into the chase.
  8. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    Joey, is you chase cased with brick or rock on the outside? Is it possible to take off the chase cap and go in from the top, taking out each piece of old chimney as you go, then once at the bottom, install one piece at a time and band it to the wall on your way back up to the top? I'd also be putting connector clamps at each junction of that pipe, just for some added safety (they don't call me "overkill" for nothing).
  9. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    Great info guys! The outside of the chase is all framed with all 2x4 and siding. Inside it is sheetrock, cement board and "fake" stone. I never thought of going up (or down) inside the chase. If possible that wood save me taking off alot of exterior siding. That would be awesome! I do have my wife to give me a hand. She a pretty good helper. I would say the chase is about 5 foot wide and maybe 2 feet wide? Just a guess. I'm going to measure it later on just to be sure I would be able to fit inside;)
    ScotO likes this.
  10. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    That would be the easiest way.....I made my chase so I could access it from the basement, and I built a ladder out of 2x4 rungs in it.....you could put a 2x4 rung every two feet or so in your chase as you climb down......

    Le me know how you make out....
  11. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    Excellent idea! Just build a ladder as you go:) I was thinking of just pulling the stove and run an insulated S.S. liner but the straight Class A has to be a better way to go. I'll post again when I have something good to report, Thanks for everyones help.
    ScotO likes this.
  12. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    Stay with it my friend. We're here if you need us. Most importantly, take your time, follow codes and guidelines, and be careful.
  13. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    Well I got my Heatilator out. I actually took it out the front without destroying the stone or cutting it out from the back. Not caring about the fireplace I hacked though the metal with a combination of tin snips and a hand grinder.
    P2230016.JPG Not an easy job but doable. Notice the fire stop that I must overcome to get to the top. (That's looking up) I have all the inside stainless steel flue down and have a few pieces of the outside shell to go. I had to bend (or cut) most of the pipe out as it was 4 feet in length and would not fit though the fireplace opening.

    Now I'm thinking about ways to brace up the "Wall Support and Tee" to the chase. I plan to put on a new S.S. chase top but still would like to put it centered to the original chimney opening just to keep the Class A off the side of the chase. I also want to use maybe metal unistrut or similar bolted to the wood framing instead of using just 2x4 framing. Here is the kit I plan on using.http://www.lowes.com/pd_208969-85178-JSC6WSK_0__?productId=3132365&Ntt=supervent&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=supervent&facetInfo= Thoughts? Advice apresheated.

    Joe

    Attached Files:

  14. Comanche79p

    Comanche79p New Member

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    I'm thinking about doing the same thing as you.
    May I ask how long it took to remove the ZC and what brand?
    Never mind, I see it is a Heatilator. That is what I have.
  15. Comanche79p

    Comanche79p New Member

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    Would a Sawzall have been a alternate choice rather than a grinder?
    You have my attention on this project.
    Thanks
  16. southbalto

    southbalto Feeling the Heat

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    Looking good..... I ended up installing the support/base bracket to the opposite wall in the chase.
    Might be a good idea in your application as well.

    [​IMG]
  17. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    It took about 4 hours including most of the chimney. I used the grinder to cut off the sheet metal screws that made up the fireplace so it came apart easier. I have a sawzall as well but didn't want to chance cutting into anything behind or below the insert. Now that's it's done a Sawzall also could be use as long as you take it easy and watch what your doing. Watch out for that sharp metal;)
  18. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    I have a few questions for you southbalto. When you put the support to the back wall did it line up to the original chimney chase or did you have to put an offset in? Did you put a new chase on top and if so where did you buy it from. Did you come in from the top of the roof to hook up Class A pipe or did you climb up inside the chase? How much of a run did you have? Last question. How do you plan to get to the clean out plug below the tee? From the outside wall or from below? Thanks

    Joe
  19. Comanche79p

    Comanche79p New Member

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    Thanks.
    My new summer project.
  20. southbalto

    southbalto Feeling the Heat

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    I was able to use the existing studs in the chase. If needed, I suppose you could cut some wood blocking (maybe 3/4" ply?) to secure to the studs so you can place your support where you need it.

    I did have to use offsets to match the chimney run to what was there before. There was a grid in the install manual that went through the various offset options and what lengths/elbows would be needed.

    No new top plate on the chase. The storm collar was wide enough to cover the existing opening.

    22' run. I installed the top support first and assembled/lifted each 4' section standing inside the chase. Once the chimney reached the top my helper locked down the top.

    I ended up cutting a 18"/18" opening in the bottom of the chase. Here is a pic:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  21. Joey J

    Joey J New Member

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    Thanks southbalto for taking the time to answer my questions.

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