Stopped in at local BK dealer and he is really against using a blaze king with anything besides a straight up chimney. Is this true or over rated? My current stove is a corner install with the usual up near the ceiling, out the wall to an insulated exterior chimeny.
Chimney with two 90's and blaze kings?
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Good question and I should know, what all should be included the vertical stack inside + outside? Will measure the horizontal portion as well.
For other common chimney components, use the following vertical height(s) to compensate for:
90° elbow = 2.0 ft (0.610 m)
“T” section = 3.0 ft (0.915 m)
1.0 ft (0.305 m) of horizontal run = 2 ft (0.610 m) of vertical rise
15 foot min, + 2 for elbow + 3 for T section + 2.5/3 feet horizontal = not enough.
90° elbow = 2.0 ft (0.610 m)
“T” section = 3.0 ft (0.915 m)
1.0 ft (0.305 m) of horizontal run = 2 ft (0.610 m) of vertical rise
15 foot min, + 2 for elbow + 3 for T section + 2.5/3 feet horizontal = not enough.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Which BK stove? It might be worth trying it out if it's a Princess. IIRC, there are other Princesses on short stacks that are working well.
Primary interest is in the princess. As the wood stove is primary heat in the winter and possibly having to go back I'm liking the idea of running it low and slow thru the day while at work then cranking it up. I like idea of the even heat spread out over time.
Is this the chimney system that the 1900 is currently on? If so, the draft may be ok. The 1900 liked a decent draft and had a 16 ft min flue system height.
Yup, if things don't work out well for it I'm looking for alternatives before I 100% need it.
The 1900 likes a fairly strong draft to burn properly. If it has burned nicely then I think the Princess will work out ok. Highbeam has his Princess on a shorter stack (12'?) and it's been working ok for him for several years now.
Sorry to hijack the thread but im trying to wrap my head around the math you have going on with the component you have. So you’re saying you have 19’. So you have a 15’ chimney with a 90, a T, and 2.5’ of horizontal. Now with the swap out numbers you gave I’m getting 25’. Unless those numbers mean you are subtracting from the vertical height.
Sorry for confusion, I have 19 feet chimney. The minimum length is 15 feet as the start of the calculation then as I added the additional lengths for my T, 90 and horzontal I saw it go more then 19 and stopped as if the stove would not work for me. The calcs are both correct I just did not finish it as I passed what I have.
25 > 19 so if going by manual no guarantee it would work well for me.
Alright understood. So I saw the + in front of the number of feet for the components and thought you were adding those up to get your height which confused me, since I knew it would hurt draft. So it should’ve been a - instead of a + to show that was how much it was taking away from the total height of the chimney. Thanks all cleared up now, just my early morning lack of reading comprehension LOL
If you want a guarantee, get a magnehelic guage and measure the draft strength with the 1900 running. It should be a low-range guage (0-.25).
Draft ranging from .02" to .10" wc is suggested for normal operation.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I’ll second begreen’s suggestion for a magnehelic, I have one permanently installed on one of my BK’s.
In general, the criticality of optimum draft is going to be related to how you intend to run the stove. BK’s allow you to push the burn rate beyond 10 hours per cubic foot of wood, but in order to get there, you do need optimum draft around 0.05” water column. However, if you never intend to push performance to the extreme, draft becomes substantially less critical, and you can get away with all sorts of sins.
In general, the criticality of optimum draft is going to be related to how you intend to run the stove. BK’s allow you to push the burn rate beyond 10 hours per cubic foot of wood, but in order to get there, you do need optimum draft around 0.05” water column. However, if you never intend to push performance to the extreme, draft becomes substantially less critical, and you can get away with all sorts of sins.
And that is what I want to be able to do, if I can't run it efficiently low and slow I'd rather just stick to a secondary burner. Will look into getting one and see what it tells me.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I have a 2012 model princess that I bought new and the instructions called required at least 12' of chimney. I have 12' all vertical and insulated and the thing works great. In the next several years they changed the requirement to 15' on the old princess and with the princess 32 that was introduced a few years ago still require 15'. For all we know, they made construction changes to the princess 32 that necessitate that 15' minimum.
There's more to it than just the lowest possible burn rate. These things are known to stink up your home if the chimney isn't right. It's less common with the princess but still happens when the chimney doesn't meet the minimum standards.
You'll also get smoke rollout more often with a weaker draft. These cat stoves are quite prone to rollout in part since the bypass opening appears to be lower than the door opening and also due to low stack temperatures.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
BeGreen is correct, the Princess with do fine. Go up minimum of 36" using dbl wall stove pipe, two 45 elbows to complete the 90. Then your 19' should be fine.
BKVP
BKVP
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I read the chimney description as 19' total including all the interior jive. That's much different than 19' of stack after all the interior jive I would think.
So does the princess 32 not require 15' minimum?
BKVP
Minister of Fire
This is good to hear, digging more into this now. Found some cracks in my old Napolean stove. My thimble is 6' off the floor which limits the 3' rise followed by the 2 45's,
Princess with Legs (Preferred ) is 30 1/4 which gives 41 3/4 to deal with the 3' + elbows.
Classic Base is 27 3/8 which gives about 44 5/8" left.
Why don't they make long bend 90's like they do for plumbing and hvac.
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