Chimney without the blocks.

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mts176

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 4, 2008
4
Western PA
I recently bought a house without a chimney and I would like to put a wood burner in the basement to help with the heating costs in the winter.

I use oil and I believe this winter is going to cost me a small fortune so I want to get some "free" heat if possible.

Can I put a wood burner in the basement by a window with a double walled chimney pipe chimney going up the side of my house?
I know that it has to be 2 or 3 feet higher than the peak of the house, but do I need to encase the pipe in blocks?
I don't want anything permanent, because depending on how it works out I might get a chimney built in my house.

Thanks for the help.
 
mts176 said:
Can I put a wood burner in the basement by a window with a double walled chimney pipe chimney going up the side of my house?
Yes

mts176 said:
I know that it has to be 2 or 3 feet higher than the peak of the house, but do I need to encase the pipe in blocks?
No

Wood stoves are commonly installed with stainless steel venting running strait up the side of the house (w/ no encasement).
 
We put half a block wall in and then installed a window.
This isn't going to be permanent so I dont want to punch a hole through the block wall.
I was going to make a metal/wood insert for the window and run the pipe out through that. Or more likely buy something that is designed for windows.

Thank you for your help.
 
We've just had our chimney pipe running outside the house for about 30 years or so. No problems. Go for it!
 
mts176 said:
We put half a block wall in and then installed a window.
This isn't going to be permanent so I dont want to punch a hole through the block wall.
I was going to make a metal/wood insert for the window and run the pipe out through that. Or more likely buy something that is designed for windows.

Thank you for your help.

So it's not "by a window" but rather through the window. I don't see any reason why you couldn't fabricate some type of custom thimble that could accomplish that and meet code.
 
Just make sure that you make the transition from connector pipe (stovepipe) to Class A chimney pipe before you go through the window opening. You'll need to treat it just the same way as though you were going through the wall. I think maybe I'd just remove and store the window, and frame in the opening & go through that. Rick
 
Make the through window insert from metal, not wood. I'd stay away from aluminum also.
 
Class A pipe is very expensive. That is the "double wall" you'll need for the exterior portion of the flue. Rather than doing an expensive, half-permanent solution now, I would just do it right. If we can get more information about the house and goals, we can assist you so that the question of 'how it works out', is not guesswork.

There are 4 vital parts to a successful burning experience. 1) a good stove sized correctly for the area to be heated 2) a good flue properly designed for the stove 3) good dry wood properly sized for the stove and season and 4) a good operator, properly trained in wood burning. Put those together and you have success pretty well guaranteed.
 
That's why I suggested framing in the window opening, and then a through-the-wall kit would make the transition from stovepipe to chimney right where it needs to be. The 90 outside could be done with a tee for ease of cleaning. Just a thought...sometimes "temporary" installations tend to become sort of "semi-permanent". Whatever you decide to do, do it safely. Rick
 
fossil said:
Just a thought...sometimes "temporary" installations tend to become sort of "semi-permanent". Whatever you decide to do, do it safely. Rick

This is exactly my concern. From what I've seen, often temporary installations become permanent. Especially when they involve a lot of work and expense.
 
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