My new woodgun has a 1.5" fitting on top and a 0.5" fitting for the gauge. Can I put a 4 way cross on the 1.5" and then put an aquastat on either side to control to seperate pumps and have the supply going straight through the cross. One pump is for the 160 degree thermic bypass valve on the return and the other is the main circ. pump feeding the 5 zone valves. After the thermic valve opens, it's pump will help pull the water into the return of the boiler. Does this all sound OK. The wood gun has one 1.5" on top, one 1/2" on top and two 1.5" near the bottom. The boiler has to have minimum 160 degree return water, what should the aquastats be set to? There is a mixing valve for in floor heat before the main pump. Thanks
circ. pump aquastats
- Thread starter mark123
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stee6043
Minister of Fire
Can you upload a drawing or sketch? Sounds like there might be an easier way to do what you want to do...
In the first picture the supply is towards the front of the picture, the left aquastat is for the main circ. pump and the right one is for the return protection thermic valve's pump.
In the second picture the right copper pipe is the bypass coming from the boiler supply down to the thermic valve. The copper on the left is the system return which is block by the thermic valve until it senses 160 degree water. I am wondering what I should set the pump on the right to come at and if it should run all the time above that? Or should it shut off above a certain temp and if so will it impede the return flow?
In the 3rd picture the supply enters the air seperator and then the T leads to the thermic valve and then to the in floor heating mixing valve. The main circ. pump feeds the zone valves
The last picture shows the White Rogers hot water control aquastats we used (type 1131-102) I cannot set them above 140 , on the left side the is a little tang that prevents it from rotating to where I want, how do I overcome this?
If you see any other issue please let me know.
In the second picture the right copper pipe is the bypass coming from the boiler supply down to the thermic valve. The copper on the left is the system return which is block by the thermic valve until it senses 160 degree water. I am wondering what I should set the pump on the right to come at and if it should run all the time above that? Or should it shut off above a certain temp and if so will it impede the return flow?
In the 3rd picture the supply enters the air seperator and then the T leads to the thermic valve and then to the in floor heating mixing valve. The main circ. pump feeds the zone valves
The last picture shows the White Rogers hot water control aquastats we used (type 1131-102) I cannot set them above 140 , on the left side the is a little tang that prevents it from rotating to where I want, how do I overcome this?
If you see any other issue please let me know.
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pybyr said:
Yup, looks like that particular model is for domestic hot water usage (like a hot water heater) while the basic design is made for other purposes as well, so they added the tab. Not that I'd want to shower in 140* water!
Scott in Penfield NY
I found a "key" in the box which has 2 little prongs, on the picture on the right side of the dial there is a little machine screw with 2 little holes. When loosened the tang can be rotated out of the way, it is a safety thing. I have another problem now, the aquastats are not detecting the true boiler temp until the water is circulating but they turn on the circ pumps . It is a chicken and egg thing.
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