Clearance from single wall pipe to ceiling

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Jonsered98

New Member
Feb 12, 2023
1
New hmapshire
Hi everyone I am installing a wood stove for my first time and I am making some good progress but I am stuck on one thing. I have plenty of clearance for my single wall pipe all the way from the stove to the ceiling, but at that point do I need to hang the support box 18” out of the ceiling in order to maintain that clearance? I want the box to be flush with the roof or slightly above it and completely seal off the chimney pipe but then I will only have about 4” sticking out from the ceiling. Is there a box where I can extend the chimney pipe down into the room? Any help is appreciated thank you.
 
I don’t recall our previous woodstove having 18” out of the ceiling, I believe in our case it was like 6” or so. Not sure your exactly situation but there are requirements that need to met and it’s good you’re asking. There are smart people on here who may be able to give your the right answer if they have all your specs z

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Please review previous threads
 
Note that if there is a run of 8' or more to the ceiling support box, then the stovepipe should be double-wall.
 
should be crazy expensive double wall or shall be crazy expensive double wall?
Should be done right for cleaner pipes and a good draft. Note that this is double-wall stove pipe, not double-wall chimney pipe. That is a common misperception.
 
Should be done right for cleaner pipes and a good draft. Note that this is double-wall stove pipe, not double-wall chimney pipe. That is a common misperception.
i like single wall so it throws off heat for the 16' it runs directly up off my stove to a cathedral ceiling. Different pipes for different applications. I certainly don't need anymore draft than i have now, if i were to add double wall pipe starting 8' up to help with draft it would only make my situation worse.
 
i like single wall so it throws off heat for the 16' it runs directly up off my stove to a cathedral ceiling. Different pipes for different applications. I certainly don't need anymore draft than i have now, if i were to add double wall pipe starting 8' up to help with draft it would only make my situation worse.

A key damper would fix the draft problem, you should be heating with the stove, not the pipe. The more heat in your pipe the less creosote you get.
 
A key damper would fix the draft problem, you should be heating with the stove, not the pipe. The more heat in your pipe the less creosote you get.
well if the pipe wants to throw off some heat i aint gonna tell it not to...i also have a key damper
 
well if the pipe wants to throw off some heat i aint gonna tell it not to...i also have a key damper

The more heat the pipe throws off the more creosote that collects in it. It's your house and you can do as you like but don't tell people asking for the right way to do it that they should do it wrong.
 
The more heat the pipe throws off the more creosote that collects in it. It's your house and you can do as you like but don't tell people asking for the right way to do it that they should do it wrong.
The whole entire creosote thing is so blown out of proportion on here and the facebook groups its insanity. If i have piping inside my house in livable space i want it to throw off heat, otherwise its wasted heat going out the pipe. Burning dry wood and having a cat stove makes creosote a non isssue just clean the pipe 1x a year. Double wall pipe inside the livable space doesnt make any sense at all, just a waste of money for the added cost of pipe and wasted heat going up and out. Show me some code that says double wall pipe is required
 
The whole entire creosote thing is so blown out of proportion on here and the facebook groups its insanity. If i have piping inside my house in livable space i want it to throw off heat, otherwise its wasted heat going out the pipe. Burning dry wood and having a cat stove makes creosote a non isssue just clean the pipe 1x a year. Double wall pipe inside the livable space doesnt make any sense at all, just a waste of money for the added cost of pipe and wasted heat going up and out. Show me some code that says double wall pipe is required
Cat stoves can actually create more creosote than non-cats due to the cooler exhaust temps. Visit some of the BK postings on this topic.

The code - and the OP's original question - are about clearance requirements. There, the code is quite clear that single-wall stove pipe requires at least 18" clearance from any an all combustibles.
 
Cat stoves can actually create more creosote than non-cats due to the cooler exhaust temps. Visit some of the BK postings on this topic.

The code - and the OP's original question - are about clearance requirements. There, the code is quite clear that single-wall stove pipe requires at least 18" clearance from any an all combustibles.
Send me the code section that says if 8' or longer run to ceiling support box it is required to be double wall.

The entire point of a CAT is to have less emissions go up the pipe (creosote). The thread you linked i believe will turn into a classic "I thought my wood was 18% but turns out it was 38% wet."
 
No one said it is code or required. The clearances, which is what this thread is about, are tested and required by code.
The common recommendation is to go no longer than 8' on single-wall stovepipe. What you do in your own house is your business.

Example, Hearthstone:
We do not recommend long runs of stovepipe to increase heat dispersal. Longer lengths of stovepipe, or more connecting elbows, than necessary increase the chances of draft resistance and the accumulation of creosote buildup.
 
heck with it I am buying all class A pipe connecting it directly to my stove and throwing my CAT in the garbage. Wont have no creosote here
 
heck with it I am buying all class A pipe connecting it directly to my stove and throwing my CAT in the garbage. Wont have no creosote here
What makes you think that? You can still have plenty of creosote in class a if not burnt properly of if using wet wood
 
After seeing pics, videos, reading stories about chimney fires, not sure that's possible.
Thankyou for saying that. It generally isn't that difficult to burn properly and avoid major issues with creosote. But that doesn't mean it can't be a big issue that can get quite dangerous.
 
Thankyou for saying that. It generally isn't that difficult to burn properly and avoid major issues with creosote. But that doesn't mean it can't be a big issue that can get quite dangerous

It's classic risk analysis.

Probability may be low, but impact is potentially catastrophically high. Anything in that category gets serious attention even accounting for that low probability.

ex:

Say you build a medial device. Probability of a specific kind of failure is low. Impact is that particular failure will almost certainly kill the patient.

(hint: your house, and your family are the 'patient' in this analogy)

You mitigate the hell out of that risk and do NOT dismiss it.
 
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probability of dying in a car accident is over 10x higher than a house fire you guys better stop driving and just stay home.

burn dry wood, use your stove according to the manual, and clean the pipe 1x a year its so simple its mind blowing that people can somehow screw it up.
 
probability of dying in a car accident is over 10x higher than a house fire you guys better stop driving and just stay home.

burn dry wood, use your stove according to the manual, and clean the pipe 1x a year its so simple its mind blowing that people can somehow screw it up.
That's an irrelevant fact. There are a magnitude more cars on the road than there are wood-burning chimneys. It trivializes the 25,000 chimney fires a year in the US and the $125 miilon dollars of chimney fire-related property damage that occurs. The leading factor contributing to home heating fires was failure to clean, principally creosote from solid-fueled heating equipment, primarily chimneys.

There is no disagreement that with proper wood-burning practices and safe flue systems chimney fires can be avoided. The problem is that many people are casual burners, some just burn on nights and weekends, and some just on special occasions and during power outages. They have no idea of the dryness of their firewood other than does it burn or not. 9 times out of 10 the firewood that is sold as seasoned is not. Many do not understand the conditions under which creosote forms.

This is why we are here and why education and best practices are important. Not everyone is a wood-burning enthusiast. The majority of postings on Hearth.com are with new wood burners or soon-to-be. That's why good guidance and recommendations are so important.
 
burn dry wood, use your stove according to the manual, and clean the pipe 1x a year its so simple its mind blowing that people can somehow screw it up.
You are absolutely correct there. The only thing you missed is set the stove and chimney up properly.

And yes it is simple and people should be able to do it without screwing it up. But many people screw it up all the time mainly due to not knowing any better. Which is why we educate people here
 
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