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Connection From Chimney To Stove Want to do it right!

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by jnorris56, Sep 29, 2012.

  1. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    Bought a house last year, has a chimney system in place for a rear exhaust wood stove. Finally found the right stove to fit. Bought a 1986 Jotul 3. Stove was never used all gaskets look good, cream colored. Now i just need to connect it. Going to do a 6" Double wall black pipe because it will be sitting on brick hearth built when stove and chimney were installed. Already has thimble going through the masonry and external chimney. I cant seem to find it at any of the stores here on Eastern Shore of MD so am going to order online. Just need to know exactly what to get. Help is greatly appreciated was going to pay to have it connected but the local places wont call me back because its such a small job.

    I have now attached pics because i know everyone loves pics!!

    Help Please, need to know what to get, and if i need or should get a damper???

    Thank you!

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Sounds like a nice find. The pictures didn't seem to make it. We will need them to help. Did you use the "Upload a File" button to do this?
  3. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    I tried says file is to big gonna try with another camera?
  4. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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  5. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    Ok Here are the pictures!

    Stove 2012 010.jpg Stove 2012 011.jpg Stove 2012 006.jpg Stove 2012 007.jpg Stove 2012 008.jpg
  6. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    That's a beauty. I would use a good quality single wall pipe for this install. The connector piece will be short so there is little advantage to using double-wall here. Single-wall will also be easier to install.
  7. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    So i only need a single wall? 6 or 8" from the wall? sweet!
  8. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    As long as the brick is backed by non-combustible material you should only need a single wall. Is there any wood behind the face brick? Is the actual chimney wider than the stove?

    KaptJaq
  9. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    The external wall is wood and there is the framing. No the chimney is not wider than the stove. The brick is much wider than the stove.
  10. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    I am not familiar with the 1986 Jotul 3 but my concern is wood behind the brick. With the stove only 8" away those bricks will get hot. Is it a single course of bricks and is the wood in direct contact? Any wood in contact might start to deteriorate and become more flammable .

    Hopefully somebody that is familiar with the stove and the required clearances will pipe in with a more definitive answer...

    KaptJaq
  11. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    if there is no air gap behind the brick, measure thru it as if it doesn't exist.

    since there is a concern, why not just use the dvl pipe? you might need a chimney adapter, and might need a stove adapter too- hard to tell from the pics
  12. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    Thank you for the responses. To be on the safe side i am thinking to use a dvl pipe. It looks like it is one layer about 5.5 inches thick with the brick about 4" and then a layer of mortar into the wall. Attaching pics of the back of the stove and the interior shot of the chimney and then what it looks like outside. I think that i will need at least one adapter?? Stove 2012 012.jpg Stove 2012 013.jpg Stove 2012 014.jpg Stove 2012 015.jpg Stove 2012 016.jpg Stove 2012 017.jpg
  13. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Is there a rating plate on your stove? That will tell you what the approved clearance to combustibles (CTC) are. If there isn't you will have to maintain 36" from the framing BEHIND the bricks, unless you use a rear heat shield to cut the clearance down...
  14. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    ^ it is a listed appliance, he can call jotul for the specs if he needs to
  15. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    op, you will need a new dvl chimney adapter part # 8675
    and maybe a stove top adapter ( note a 2-10" or 6" adj section might work as the connector as long as an air gap is left for the pipe to be air cooled.) I CANT TELL HOW A STD SECTION OF DVL WILL FIT FROM PICTURES(oops caps!)

    good luck
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    My bad, I was assuming this was masonry all the way through. If the studs framing the thimble are just 12" apart, then a double-wall connector will be needed.

    But that is just the pipe, the stove clearances to combustibles (studs in the wall) also need to be honored. Key here is what is behind the brick. You can get a 33% clearance reduction from the closest combustibles (studs in wall) based on the clearance requirements on the label on the back on the stove.
  17. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    Do you have the manual? It is available on the Jotul site and I believe it is this one:

    http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Files/USA/Old products/Old Stoves and inserts manuals/Jotul_ 3TDIC_2_0394.pdf

    Read it and check what your clearances are compared to the manual. These clearances are also on the plate on the bottom back of your stove. You must measure the distance to any wood or other combustible material behind the brick that does not have a 1" air gap to protect it as if the brick was not there.

    The CTC diagram for your stove looks like the attached image.

    jotul3.gif

    KaptJaq
  18. jnorris56

    jnorris56 New Member

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    Thank you for the manual! According to the back panel I need 34" and i assume that is for single wall pipe. what would the clearance need to be with double wall and the double wall connector?
  19. KaptJaq

    KaptJaq Minister of Fire

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    I going to assume that you are new to wood stoves and wood heat? There are three different sets of clearances you have to worry about. This is a very quick summary and I hope others will pipe in to help with anything I misstated or am not clear on.

    1. Clearance between the stove and any combustible material. This set of numbers is on the plate on the back of your stove. In some cases it can be reduced with either a heat shield on the stove or a shield on the wall. The shield for the stove comes from the manufacturer. The wall shield it is usually made of non-combustible material mounted in front of the wall with spacers making a 1" gap between the shield and the wall/combustible material. There is also a gap between the bottom of the shield and the floor and the top of the shield and the ceiling to permit air flow behind the shield. If this method is applicable to your stove it will be documented in your manual and/or back plate.

    2. The next clearance is between the stove pipe and any combustible material. This measurement should also be in the documentation and/or back plate. It may also be found in the pipe's documentation.

    3. The last is the hearth pad. Each stove requires different size pads and various resistance to the transfer of heat (R factor) to any combustible material under the hearth. Also documented in the manual and/or back plate.

    Of course you also have to worry about furniture and drapes and anything else that may get near the stove and may burn...

    In your case the hardest problem will be the brick wall behind the stove. We do not know how it is constructed. If there is any wood or other combustible material in contact with that brick wall it can start to burn within the wall. You have to determine if there is any wood. If there is wood make sure the stove compiles to the CTC (clearance to combustibles) for that surface as given on the UL plate on the back of the stove. The measurement is from the wood or other combustible material to the stove.

    The stove pipe is another issue with the wall. If there is wood anywhere near where the stove pipe leaves the stove and enters the wall, even within the wall, the CTC for the pipe and the fitting that goes through the wall must be observed.

    Finally is the hearth big enough? What is under it? Wood? Concrete? Does it have the proper resistance to heat transfer (R factor)?

    Anything that you can change to reduce clearances will be documented in your manuals (either the pipe or stove manual). You must observe the clearances as documented on the back plate or in the manual. It does not sound like 8" between the wall and the stove will work no matter which pipe you use.

    Hope this helps...

    KaptJaq
  20. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    That manual is not for this stove. I'm pretty sure this stove is just a straight Jotul 3 and not a 3TDIC which is a cat model. Check the back label. That will have your clearances.

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