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Country comfort maintenance?

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by tjcole50, Oct 19, 2013.

  1. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    I just want to make sure my upstairs wood stove is safe and good to go this year. I have included some pics and wondered what the experts here thought should be kept up with, watched, or repaired. Thank you again everyone! Make and model are country condor cc325. I thought the oval shaped bent pipe looked odd or is that normal install equipment for an insert?
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 19, 2013

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  2. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

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    I remember that thing used a very wide and thin oval pipe.....the real question there is whether it drafts properly.

    If you don't already have a block-off plate, you should fabricate and install one.
    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/

    Other than that, check the firebox for cracks and stuff like that. The blower probably needs cleaned out from dust, etc.....the big thing is whether it drafts and burns well when all is said and done. Of course, you should have a smoke and CO detector in the room just in case it leaks, etc.
  3. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    Drafts great! Gets a roaring fire . Slight smoke back at you when building but I think that's normal. That oval pipe is monster in length since it was originally an open fireplace. I will look at link provided thank you ! Forgot to add. With that oval pipe it has some bends to reach the tile flue. Now with that rectangular plate which the oval pipe passes through on its way up, I'm curious on a new stove install. Let's say in a few years I want a different stove in there? With a top circle exit how would that be fabricated? I know I can run strihht up with the design of the fireplace brick
  4. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

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    Most newer stoves use a similar method but not as ovalized. That is, a flexible tube is used for the bottom 6 to 10 feet (most never stoves are lined to the top of the chimney) and it is flattened to go through the damper and then brought back to round to push into an adapted on top of the insert.

    The sheet metal plate, if you make one, usually fits way down from the damper as shown in that article.
  5. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    So you don't see foreseeable issues with an upgrade down the road? Haven't looked at block off article but damper on mine is right on top of firebox?
  6. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

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    No issues - once you remove that unit, it'll be like any new installation.....IMHO. Some people go all out and grind or cut away some of the damper frame, but you can find oval pipe to fit it also. Keep in mind that most new units use 6" whereas that thing used the equiv. of 10" or something like that!
  7. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    that "roaring fire" has badly warped the baffle, time to replace it, and figure out why the unit is overfiring!
    (leaky door or glass gaskets?- burning too much wood w/air control wide open?, etc)

    99% sure the company is out of the game, probably need to have a baffle fabricated...
  8. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    Found my manual lol! By baffle you mean the cat? image.jpg
  9. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    Also the combustion control inlets located on the sides should be closed I'm guessing once at full burn?
  10. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

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    You might need to have them cracked a bit, but once you get the cat up to temp and dial it down a few times you will get a feel for where to put the air inlets at. Your door gaskets do look like they need to be swapped out with new ones, those double doors tend to leak air more than a single door. I would do the dollar bill test on them.

    Do you have a picture of the condition of the cat?
  11. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

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    You have what is called a direct connect on that liner, it does not go all the way up.

    [​IMG]

    You NEED to put in a block off plate.
  12. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

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    Baffle is the housing that holds the cat, it looks pretty warped.
  13. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    i thought those were non cat units.
    note the secondary burn tube.....
  14. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

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    Condar sells a cat for the cc325, maybe it is a hybrid?
  15. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    Got me all confused now boys! Now I know I need to put In a block off plate but what else? I mean this thing is currently heating my house. We are getting propane come December but I do not want to have my stove out of commision very long. Also I noticed my dampenr giving me a headache like it gets stuck not wanting to open/close fully at times
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2013
  16. tjcole50

    tjcole50 Feeling the Heat

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    Also that flexible section that kinks up to reach the clay flue, is that a common setup or should a future newer insert be re worked to accommodate a straight 6" pipe to meet the clay? Thanks again
  17. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

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    No one uses that style liner anymore, all new stoves will require a 6" round liner that goes all the way up to the top, don't stop at the first tile as it is much easier to clean if you go all the way to the top and you will get better draft.
  18. Koobiluphi

    Koobiluphi New Member

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    Can you please send me a PDF of your manual? I've desperately been trying to find a copy.
  19. zhank

    zhank New Member

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    would it be possible for you to send me a PDF copy of your fireplace manual?

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