Creosote leaking from new stove?

[Sprinter]

And the gentleman in question is nearing 90 years old, an insanely hard working man who was up on the roof nailing down shingles and helped me build an entire cabin. So it was a delicate situation.

That is delicate. Reminds me of some situations in my life that I won't go into. But I really understand.

 

[Hogwildz]

That appears to me to be 8" pipe, which would be the OD of 6" class A.

Are there plans for finishing the ceiling?

It is single wall galvanized. I'm seeing 8" single wall, not 6" double wall.
Not to mention, not many run class A inside the house.

 

[jeff_t]

It is single wall galvanized. I'm seeing 8" single wall, not 6" double wall.
Not to mention, not many run class A inside the house.

Apologies for the incomplete thought. The flashing is probably adequate, is what I meant.

 

[Hogwildz]

Apologies for the incomplete thought. The flashing is probably adequate, is what I meant.

ah, my mistake. At worst might have to trim a little off.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Why don't folks use class a in doors? Overkill and or extra heat from pipe?

 

[Hogwildz]

Overkill and expense. Not sure if a support box would even work for the class A underneath.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Thanks, that what what I was thinking.

 

[begreen]

It is single wall galvanized. I'm seeing 8" single wall, not 6" double wall.
Not to mention, not many run class A inside the house.

Correct, and with single-wall pipe the minimum clearance to any combustible is 18". It may be the camera angle but the wood sure looks closer than 18". If so, drywall will make it even be closer and just as combustible. Certainly that is not safe clearances going up through the roofl.

FYI, a layer of cement board directly on the studs is not adequate protection. For a proper wall shield there needs to be a ventilated air space behind it.

PS: Welcome aboard. Your instincts are right on. There is a right way to do this. It's more expensive initially but very inexpensive when compared to the possible negative consequences of an unsafe installation.

PPS: I don't think the flashing is correct or adequate for class A pipe because there is no support. From what I can see in the shots, the stove is supporting the pipe. And the top of the pipe does not look like it is 2 ft higher than the nearest roofline within 10ft..

 

[Hogwildz]

Correct, and with single-wall pipe the minimum clearance to any combustible is 18". It may be the camera angle but the wood sure looks closer than 18". If so, drywall will make it even be closer and just as combustible. A layer of cement board directly on the studs is not adequate protection. For a proper wall shield there needs to be a ventilated air space behind it.

PS: Welcome aboard. Your instincts are right on. There is a right way to do this. It's more expensive initially but very inexpensive when compared to the possible negative consequences of an unsafe installation.

PPS: I don't think the flashing is correct or adequate for class A pipe because there is no support. From what I can see in the shots, the stove is supporting the pipe. And the top of the pipe does not look like it is 2 ft higher than the nearest roofline within 10ft..

Should not a ceiling support box be installed? The flashing never supports the piping. Its either a ceiling support box or roof support?

 

[begreen]

Yes, that's right unless a ceiling is going it later. Or a roof support could be installed for some brands. The flashing will have to be removed. I'm not sure how well it will survive that.

 

[Sprinter]

Here's something else to consider. Be sure the chimney meets the 10 - 3 - 2 rule:




Also, you probably need about 15' of flue height from stove top to cap for adequate draft. I don't recall if you gave a height.

What kind of stove is this?

 

[char]

I'll try to address all of your comments --

First, the stove is a Hobbit: http://www.salamanderstoves.com/docs/64/the_hobbit_stove/

The flue opening is 4", so I figured I could get a 4" chimney (6 inch outer diameter). We cut a hole in the roof and installed the metal flashing (6") and wove it into the shingles. But then I learned they don't make 4" chimneys in the USA and I would have to special order from Canada (expensive). I was looking at 4" Selkirk HT chimney pipe which was about $200 for a 3' section (comes in 1', 2', 3').

I had wanted to use a chimney box or roof support (I think roof support might make more sense in this installation because it's just a plywood roof) but as you can see we just ran the pipe straight through the roof with no support. It's just being supported by the stove. I don't plan on finishing the walls or ceiling.

The pipe is 6" single-wall galvanized pipe. It is connected to the stove with a 4" to 6" adapter. There are two 2' sections and one 5' section for a total height of 9'. Add another 6" for the chimney cap. The chimney extends maybe a foot above the roof peak.

The stove manufacturer listed a minimum pipe length of 12', but in an email he said 9' would be ok. The stove is very small, 12x12x18".

Thanks for all the advice guys, this is really helpful.

By the way, since my roof is simply 3/4" plywood, what is the reason for using class A insulated pipe rather than just running double wall stove pipe through the roof? I know everything I have read says you MUST use class A pipe, but all those installations I looked at were going through finished ceilings, not just a sheet of plywood.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

That appears to me to be 8" pipe, which would be the OD of 6" class A.

Are there plans for finishing the ceiling?

Could be, in the very first post he says it's 6" so that's what I was rolling with.... 6" single wall galvanized round ducting. I do however have to wonder about the 4"-6" increaser, so perhaps it is actually a 6"-8" increaser.....

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Minimum chimney run is for flow issues with the stove itself only.... The 10-3-2 foot rule applies at all times. I can honestly say I've never ever seen a woodstove with a 4" flue outlet. Very interesting. The closest I've come is potbelly stoves (older than I am) that are 5" round or 5" oval to round.

 

[Sprinter]

According to this site http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Salamander_Hobbit.html

The flue is 4".

(Click on specifications)

The Salamander site is not accessible now apparently because of problems with server space.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

I got a server too busy message as well, was interested to read up on the stove myself

 

[begreen]

I'll try to address all of your comments --

First, the stove is a Hobbit: http://www.salamanderstoves.com/docs/64/the_hobbit_stove/

The flue opening is 4", so I figured I could get a 4" chimney (6 inch outer diameter). We cut a hole in the roof and installed the metal flashing (6") and wove it into the shingles. But then I learned they don't make 4" chimneys in the USA and I would have to special order from Canada (expensive). I was looking at 4" Selkirk HT chimney pipe which was about $200 for a 3' section (comes in 1', 2', 3').

I had wanted to use a chimney box or roof support (I think roof support might make more sense in this installation because it's just a plywood roof) but as you can see we just ran the pipe straight through the roof with no support. It's just being supported by the stove. I don't plan on finishing the walls or ceiling.

The pipe is 6" single-wall galvanized pipe. It is connected to the stove with a 4" to 6" adapter. There are two 2' sections and one 5' section for a total height of 9'. Add another 6" for the chimney cap. The chimney extends maybe a foot above the roof peak.

The stove manufacturer listed a minimum pipe length of 12', but in an email he said 9' would be ok. The stove is very small, 12x12x18".

Thanks for all the advice guys, this is really helpful.

By the way, since my roof is simply 3/4" plywood, what is the reason for using class A insulated pipe rather than just running double wall stove pipe through the roof? I know everything I have read says you MUST use class A pipe, but all those installations I looked at were going through finished ceilings, not just a sheet of plywood.

I think you may be confusing double-wall connector pipe (just a pipe within a pipe) with double-wall, insulated class A pipe. (shiny chimney pipe). Class A pipe must be used for the chimney at the roof penetration. Your cheapest route here will be to go with Supervent I think and a roof support bracket. That will allow the pipe to be supported and drop down into the cabin interior by 6 inches or more. At that point you would switch to double wall connector pipe (DSP) via an adapter down to the stove. If you want to stick with single wall (not galvanized) down to the stove you will need to drop the class A further into the room, then connect a 6x4" reducer, crimp on the bottom, then into 4" black stove pipe. If the connector pipe is closer the wall than 18", either the wall or the pipe will need to be shielded.