Cross draft vs S draft vs down draft vs up draft vs ...

[rdeis]

Is there a good resource that discusses the different draft types and their advantages/hassels?

I'm considering modifications to try and make my old stove draft differently and want more info...

 

[Big Dan]

The best way to make your old stove work better Is to replace it with a good flash combustion stove.

 

[rdeis]

I'd like that, but it's not cost effective.

Besides, I want to learn about this stuff.

 

[DrawCollarMan]

What modifications are you looking to do? Do you have too much draft or not enough? There are many factors to draft in a chimney system.

 

[begreen]

To change a stove's burning system is not trivial. What are you starting out with?

 

[rdeis]

Mostly I just want to get smarter at this point.

I'm starting with a Buckstove insert. I'd like to improve the heat recovery and reduce the wood consumption. However, as I mentioned before, the way the cost structures lay out at my house, spending a couple of thousand dollars on stove improvements isn't worthwhile- if I'm outlaying that kind of cash there are smarter long term options for me.

So, I'm looking for simple things I can do to my stove myself that will improve it when I need it, but won't demand a huge investment.

It's a Buck 27000 installed as a fireplace insert by my home's previous owners. There's a fascia kit on it, but no stack and no flue blockoff. The fans and thermoswitches are in good working order, if a bit noisey. Mostly I burn softwood because that's what's available for reasonable prices here. I stumbled upon a load of oak this winter at a moving sale that is spoiling me, I admit, especially for the overnight burns, but that's not going to be the normal fuel.

My general procedure is to start the fire with the intakes and damper open until it's roaring nicely, then drop the damper to 50% or so until the fan comes on, then top off the wood load, close the damper most of the way and adjust the air intake down until the fan cycles on and off every few minutes. This provides sufficient heat for several hours and the wood burns down to white ash with very few cold coals when it's done. I'd like to be able to slow down the burn rate a bit more, but I don't want to get to the smoldering cold phase where creosote becomes a problem.

 

[mellow]

You would want to start with installing a baffle with secondary air to re-burn the smoke, that will give you longer cleaner burns.

Examples: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...on-complete-heres-hoping-i-smoke-less.104600/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/bullard-secondary-air-retrofit-project-complete.55033/

This one is right up your alley: I Modified My Buck Stove 27000 Insert for Secondary Burn. Now Have Questions

You will also want to hook up a liner to improve your draft for the secondary to work better.

You can also go the route of installing a catalytic combustor but that might be more money than you are willing to spend to fab something up.

 

[rdeis]

Perfect- I was indeed considering a secondary air mod. Also considering a cat mod, not sure which would be better, or if they're compatible.

I think I understand the air tube design and theory, but I don't understand the baffle yet. Is that just a reflector or insulation to keep the heat in?

 

[mellow]

Is that just a reflector or insulation to keep the heat in?

Both, reflects the heat back down to the air tubes and keeps the heat in the firebox so secondary combustion will occur.