1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

Did the cleaning, made a custom baffle gasket, shes cooking now.

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Hogwildz, Oct 29, 2008.

  1. nodtmf

    nodtmf Member

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2010
    Messages:
    16
    Loc:
    Santa Cruz Mtns
    Oh hi,

    Well thought I would give this thread a bump with regards to the baffle gasket. I want to make the rope style gasket and was thinking of using silicon to "glue" the ends together. I figured I would overlap the ends, slitting each end such that I remove the top layer from one end and the bottom layer from the other end, maybe 1/2 inch back from the ends. Then add a little bit of silicon between the layers to hold. I'm thinking this would be easier than braiding the ends together.

    Any thoughts?

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2006
    Messages:
    13,981
    Loc:
    Northern IL
    Do you know how many brain cells I have drank away since 2009?

    Anyhow, the blue stuff might work to get it installed, but it is not going to hold up long term. That gasket is gonna see some serious long term heat.
  3. Sisu

    Sisu Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2009
    Messages:
    466
    Loc:
    Ontario
    Ditto. The gasket will face temperatures greater than what the silicon can take. Another alternative is to cut a makeshift gasket from a batt of Roxul insulation. Just make sure to use a serrated blade.
  4. CK-1

    CK-1 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2006
    Messages:
    258
    Thats what I did. I can see some of the gasket overlap when I open the stove. Still working strong!..
  5. GeneralBill

    GeneralBill Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Messages:
    78
    Loc:
    Western OR
    I read with great interest the method employed by Hogwildz. After my 1st year of use, the gasket looks shot. Those darn gaskets are $8 at the local shop and the gal said they gave up replacing them on cleanings. A previous thread said $3.50 each, but inflation and the fall of the US/Canadian currency...

    I did not feel comfortable making the fiberglass ring. Probably because I can never seem to score above "caveman" in IQ tests. So here's another method that seemed to work on the Summit (which has a horizontal connection so it may be easier).

    I unwound some door rope; it unwinds very easily into sub-threads. With about a 2 foot thread, I wrapped it around the firebox protrusion (that goes into the baffle) a few times and tied it in front. The Summit box has a lower cut at front so the knot does not make the new gasket un-level. Then, after measuring this circular gasket, I wound up another just a bit looser so it sits around the first rope-gasket.

    I'll try it out and report next year. Hope to make some pictures, but a chore is calling right now.


    Many thanks to Hog for the report and encouragement,

    Bill
  6. jackatc1

    jackatc1 Burning Hunk

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2011
    Messages:
    196
    Loc:
    Port Crane ny
    HI all,i have been lurking for years ,great site.

    3 years ago my baffle gasket on my summit insert disappeared.

    I have been burning ever since, with no problems , that i am aware of.

    Is this part really necessary?
  7. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2006
    Messages:
    13,981
    Loc:
    Northern IL
    Mfg's don't usually add unnecessary parts to simple products. Yep, it should be there. You are loosing efficiency without it. Smoke will travel the path of least resistance, and you just opened up a window for it.
  8. djlarson77

    djlarson77 Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2010
    Messages:
    103
    Loc:
    NW Twin Cities, MN
    I Just replaced the baffle gasket using the Hogwildz method. Bought 6' of 3/8" fiberglass gasket from menards ($5.99 I think). Was a little tricky weaving / tying it together, but wasn't too difficult in the end. The difficulty came in getting it to compress enough to get the pin in. After multiple attempts of prying with a screw driver, using a wire through the hole to pull down on, and a bunch of other stupid ideas....I pulled the gasket out and put it in a vise. That flattened it out enough to get the pin in. Hopefully this gasket holds up better than the PE junk that was in there for 2 years.

    I'm wondering how Alderlea owners are cleaning their chimneys. the first two times I removed the double-wall black piping form just above the stove to the ceiling and taped a bag to the pipe up near the ceiling. This was not the easiest process - trying to put the pipe back together and line up the screw holes. It seemed a lot easier to clean it with the baffle removed, which is the way I plan to do it going forward...just curious.
  9. etiger2007

    etiger2007 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2012
    Messages:
    1,217
    Loc:
    Clio Michigan
    Hog how long have you had that insert and how often do you clean it like that?, great job.

Share This Page