Disgusted with the stove and myself!!

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is it a plain black cast iron door? if so after installing the new screw and clip, push a little rutland stove cement in the hole on the outside, heat it up with propane torch until the outside is hardened then gently scrape to mimic the texture, repaint right over the rutland, if its done well you wont even see the repair, the screw will seal the hole anyway so its not a danger.

and when regasketing in the future these 2 tips: first, WD-40 is your friend before and a little spray graphite after to help the screw from reseizing for the next time right before you put the screw back in. and second, never use power tools on door screws always use a wrench to gently minister the screws out.

Spray graphite? I used the power drill to drill the piece out that was in the hole still from the head of the screw popping off. At any rate I ordered a new door and will keep the old one as a back up and try to fix it.
 
spray graphite is a contact lubricant that withstands very high temps, it wont burn away like a petroleum based lube. so what you would do is "paint" the threaded part of the screw before inserting it.

as for the "no power tools' thing , they have a lot of torque applied very quickly and you can wring off a screw head before you can get off the trigger, i wasnt talking about drilling the rest of the screw out, thats fine i meant dont put a nut driver head on it and remove the screw (intact) as it can break off easily. with a wrench you can feel the tension better and can back off it if it feels too tight and hit it with the WD-40 again before loosening it up.
 
spray graphite is a contact lubricant that withstands very high temps, it wont burn away like a petroleum based lube. so what you would do is "paint" the threaded part of the screw before inserting it.

as for the "no power tools' thing , they have a lot of torque applied very quickly and you can wring off a screw head before you can get off the trigger, i wasnt talking about drilling the rest of the screw out, thats fine i meant dont put a nut driver head on it and remove the screw (intact) as it can break off easily. with a wrench you can feel the tension better and can back off it if it feels too tight and hit it with the WD-40 again before loosening it up.

Thanks for the pointers!
 
I would have to get sent to the rubber room if I didn't have stuff to work on everyday.

The moral of the story is a mans work is never done, you just may get a small break before the next project begins.
 
I took the front door off my stove to replace the gaskets around the glass and door. The glass is held down by clips which are screwed into the frame of the door. Start unscrewing one and and the freaking head of the screw popped off! So i don't get to frustrated and move onto the next one same thing again. The screws are rusted. So now i pull out the drill! BAD MOVE ALL AROUND. I drilled right through the door. Needless to say a new door is $135 and all my savings from trying to do this myself down the drain. Lesson learned? Live and learn i guess!

That's horrible man I am sorry that happened to you.
 
Rory I do not know what he screws on stoves are made of but I had the same issue on my old stove. The factory asked me to take the back off and check the combuster and all of the screws snapped with almost no pressure ! When I finally got them drilled out (12 bolts out of 18 ) all 12 holes where poorly threaded and I replaced the old bolts with grade 8 bolts. It was a disaster for sure. The bolts seem to be relatively week and have no tensile strength. I ended up using something called freeze-off to remove the other 6 bolts and it worked very well here is a video of it. ( for future reference ) Good Luck on the rest of the repair.

Pete

 
Rory I do not know what he screws on stoves are made of but I had the same issue on my old stove. The factory asked me to take the back off and check the combuster and all of the screws snapped with almost no pressure ! When I finally got them drilled out (12 bolts out of 18 ) all 12 holes where poorly threaded and I replaced the old bolts with grade 8 bolts. It was a disaster for sure. The bolts seem to be relatively week and have no tensile strength. I ended up using something called freeze-off to remove the other 6 bolts and it worked very well here is a video of it. ( for future reference ) Good Luck on the rest of the repair.

Pete



My issue now is finding the replacement screws without giving the manufacturer my first born child!
 
I look at things a little differently. If it was broke to begin with the worse case is going to be getting a new something. If I can fix it good for me.
Now, if I go to maintain something and I mess it up in the process I call that a lesson.

Lessons learned are knowledge gained that I will own the rest of my life. So if doing something myself may cost a little bit more becasue of the lesson I have learned it will still cost less than having someone else come and do the work for me without learning something new.

In the OP's case those gaskets will need to be replaced again sometime in the future but next time he will know what to expect and how to do it. I call that getting his moneys worth out of the lesson.
I wonder what that lesson would have cost at a university?
 
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My issue now is finding the replacement screws without giving the manufacturer my first born child!

Try a local hardware and see if they have any hardened screws that will fit ( if you have not already ). In my experience using the factory bolts / screws just leads to the same problem again the next time on a stove. The other option is to use anti-seize on them when you reinstall the screws http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm . Anti-seize is at most auto stores and is good to 2000 degrees it makes removing screws a world easier when it's time again. The other advantage it will also help prevent the threads from rusting again. I love anti-seize it works great !

Pete
 
I'd use the never sieze. If you use hardened bolts you won't be able to drill them out should they break.
 
Try a local hardware and see if they have any hardened screws that will fit ( if you have not already ). In my experience using the factory bolts / screws just leads to the same problem again the next time on a stove. The other option is to use anti-seize on them when you reinstall the screws http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm . Anti-seize is at most auto stores and is good to 2000 degrees it makes removing screws a world easier when it's time again. The other advantage it will also help prevent the threads from rusting again. I love anti-seize it works great !

Pete

I have tried numerous hardware stores and will try one more this weekend...thanks for the tip on the spray
 
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